another issue

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Tue May 15, 2012 3:58 pm

poeticjustice88 wrote:just did my leads and it drove awesome for hours, but now it is farting again, but i am nearly certain it is fuel. if im on the gas it drives great, if i am cruising and go to put my foot down, it spits and burgles then comes to life with in a couple of secs. same with at lights, im not on the gas, just idling. put my foot down to go and it farts and carries on then comes to life.

i found that if i am on the highway and it starts farting when i tap the gas, if i drop it back to fourth and just give it enough to increase cruise speed it comes back to life. so i am really starting to think it may be fuel pressure, or FPR

Is it the same sort of misfiring, or different? A 2000rpm rev ceiling would indicate a ignition prob, where what you have described screams of 'pump enrichment' leaness. Go into your pump 2 settings, an add 10% more fuel and 15 more cycles and see what it feels like. Just remember to either write down your starting point, or save before you play. You could even increase a ottos bit at a time till the problem becomes less or disappears.

Anyone else run a mtech? What are your pump1 and pump2 values?

Damo

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Wed May 16, 2012 8:31 am

got a new FPR for cheaper than i thought i would, the one i had on the car was not original, no idea what it came off of as it was not an OEM replacement. i thought, once again, that was it, because it drove beautifully, then pulling into the driveway, SPLAT COUGH FART FUCKEN GARGLE!!!

it seems to only be when its hot, but i drove for 2 hours and it only did it on the very last 10 metres of the drive.

i will go through the Mtech setting tonight damo. what is ottos ? you said in you last post, i am guessing mistype.

if that then doesnt work, i will throw dexis dizzy back in, and try from there.

GAWD just work already !!!!

Michael

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Wed May 16, 2012 3:06 pm

BTW dexi, thanks for the loan of the dizzy man, as soon as i find out for sure what the problem is, if its my dizzy ill swing you the cash straight away man

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Fri May 18, 2012 8:28 am

ok, so i went through all of my wiring and cleaned up the loose wires, to make sure nothing was grounding out, or connecting. and i through dexis dizzy in.

it drove really well for the 3 drives i took it on, about 3 hours driving in total, then i went to pick the mrs up from work and it died on my driveway, completely cut out, and my tacho read ZERO rpm instantly, which to me says the coil.

this happened the last time i used the distributor aswell and dexi and i both thought my coil had died, so i went and bought a new one.

its now done it again with a brand new coil. i through my dizzy back in, and it had the same pissing and farting problem, but it started first go.

So i am thinking that dexis dizzy is having issues aswell.

does anyone know, or can someone tell me, if the only reason i am swapping dizzys over is for the CAS ? or is there another component that could be causing these problems.

if so, i will try and get a brand new CAS, rather than geting a second hand dizzy if a CAS is all i need

however, if i do need a whole new dizzy for more reasons than just the CAS, does anyone know where i can get a brand new one, either made or purchased, maybe an aftermarket one that is a direct replacement ?

thanks
Michael

Timmzy · Post by **Timmzy** » Fri May 18, 2012 1:37 pm

There is a component in between the dizzy and the coil that could be your gremlin.

Its the ignitor, or transistor. I haven't heard of these failing regularly - but if you have replaced distributors and coil - then all that it left is wiring and ignitor. Well there is the computer PLUS 20 year old wiring, but lets assume they are working OK.

Basically the computer sends a signal dropping the transistor to ground, which then in turn fires the coil.

There is no easy or quick way to test them in-car. I believe VL commodore ones are the same.

Your problem definition really does sound like a wiring issue to me. That sort of intermittent disconnecting, unreliable running type of scenario.....

Literally ALL of my reliability issues went away once I replaced the dodgy crank angle sensor and rewired then entire engine wiring. Its still the best mod I have ever done in my opinion... It gives you confidence to drive the damn car without having to be concerned about someone towing you home.

Darren.

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Fri May 18, 2012 2:04 pm

Timmzy wrote:It gives you confidence to drive the damn car without having to be concerned about someone towing you home.

Oh how i wish i could have that feeling right now !!!

Well i am, as we speak pricing up a new Crank angle sensor, however, because there are three different types of distributors, and three corresponding different types of CAS, i am having trouble trying to decipher which one to get. and i sure as hell dont want to get the wrong one as there is $100 difference, and a no refund policy on EFI parts.

the distributor i have has these numbers on them if it helps at all.

d4p82-02 b7xc2
22100 17m05

Michael

i dont know if this is the original dizze that got recalled, the one they replaced it with, or its japanese counterpart

If i can find out which one it is, it may help me to find the appropriate CAS

From memory the dizzy i got off of dexi was the same numbers except for the last set which were 17m01 i believe

BennyET · Post by **BennyET** » Fri May 18, 2012 2:28 pm

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... istributor

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... istributor

strange, can't find your part number on any of these pages

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Fri May 18, 2012 3:10 pm

not much help from those sites at all unfortunately, none of them state my dizzy

could it be out of an n13 maybe ? hell i dont know, im just brainstorming now

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Fri May 18, 2012 3:44 pm

D4P82-02BR894 · 2210017M05

this comes up as an n13 pulsar dizzy for a 1.3l

the only difference in the numbers are 02br894 where mine is 02b7xc2

the rest of the numbers are the same, this is the closest dizzy i have found in regards to the numbers

this is also the only D4P82-02 dizzie i can find, the rest are 82-05's or 85-02's etc

Post by **tassuperkart** » Sun May 20, 2012 8:06 pm

If you must, simply take your dizzy to Automotive Service Solutions. They will take about a 3 second look and hand over a CAS.
2 numbers, 36011 either internally OR externally threaded.
Just feel on the base of your dizzy. If there are 3 small screw heads there then its INTERNALLY threaded and if you feel just 3 small holes, then its EXTERNALLY threaded OK?

THAT assumes the CAS is actually the culprit.

Have you tried a replacement coil trigger as Timmzy has mentioned above?
Try one first as your issue does not "feel" to me to be a CAS.

L8r
E

dexi_styles · Post by **dexi_styles** » Sun May 20, 2012 8:21 pm

tassuperkart wrote:If you must, simply take your dizzy to Automotive Service Solutions. They will take about a 3 second look and hand over a CAS.
2 numbers, 36011 either internally OR externally threaded.
Just feel on the base of your dizzy. If there are 3 small screw heads there then its INTERNALLY threaded and if you feel just 3 small holes, then its EXTERNALLY threaded OK?

THAT assumes the CAS is actually the culprit.

Have you tried a replacement coil trigger as Timmzy has mentioned above?
Try one first as your issue does not "feel" to me to be a CAS.

L8r
E

I spoke to Michael abor the coil trigger. So hopefully he doesn't fork out mote money then needed.

Run through all your earths too just incase something isn't in contact anymore.

Rossco had the issue of no spark. Took out the coil n dizzy cap. Put it all back in n worked. Think he replaced the part Timmzy talked bout.

Dex

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Sun May 20, 2012 11:11 pm

redid all the wires to the condensor, its also a brand new ignition coil.

i ended up forking out the money and replacing the CAS, it seems to be ok at the moment, have not been for a "big" drive yet, but time will shortly tell, also damo and i thought it may be my TPS that is at fault, as when damo was messing with the microtech he noticed something about it. unfortunately, a VL turbo manual TPS was more expensive than the CAS that i had just bought. It was $175, i thought they were only cheap, however i will do the call around tomorrow and see if i cant a wrecker with a decent one.

I do know that there are other TPS' that fit, but i could not seem to remember what they were. I looked for a TPS from a CA20 pintara as damo mentioned to me, but everyone was saying that they were a twin spark, i dont see how that affects the TPS, but none the less, i will get a second hand one when i get the chance.

I will update tomorrow as to how it drives with the new CAS

Michael

rosscotron · Post by **rosscotron** » Mon May 21, 2012 3:15 pm

Hey man good luck sad to hear your having so many probs with yours at the moment it'll all be worth it in the long run, with mine it was some strange shit gave it a bit in hi boost about 5K mark she ha da little pop in the engine bay then i could rev but not drive then died and wouldnt start,

got it home changed coil and nothing no spark took dizzy cap off and took cap off and put back on and had to jump start it and bang drove for 10 meters and dies and wouldnt start, took cap off dizy ect cleaned points and jumped it again and bang. It would crank over but not fire unless i jumped it.

All good now tho

maybe dexi and i could come visit some time if your on the GC

Post by **tassuperkart** » Mon May 21, 2012 3:54 pm

You dont even need a TPS.
DOP NOT waste time and money by using resistive (progressive) TPS's
Microtech does not use the TPS for anything other than switching between IDLE and LOAD mapping at tiny throttle openings.

The reason the switching is done between 2 different maps is that the engine at very low load and rpm can require slightly different fuelling between idling (no load) for the same rpm.

If there is no TPS wired, then the ECU will just default to LOAD maps and the very worst case scenario is the slighest bit of roughness on the transition from no throttle to slight throttle openings.

Most tuners of Microtechs are that lazy anyway that their low load tunes are unlikely to EVER exploit this feature.

If your TPS is working, even if it shows some inconsistency due to dirty contacts, ensure your IDLE maps and LOAD maps are set to the same figures and you wont know the difference.

You replaced the coil. What with?
What is your coil dwell time set to? This really matters.

Lets do some simple testing rather than just blindly changing out parts with no frikken idea yer?

Run the car really hot first.
Firstly disconnect your fuel pump relay. THIS IS CRUCIAL or you will fill your cylinders with fuel.
Remove the plugs, connect the plug wires to them and lay them along the rocker cover.
Set the Microtech into diagnostic mode and let it run.

Use a heat gun and alternately (carefully) heat up the trigger transistor and then blow it cool.
Pull and push on the wiring and connections.
See if you can determine any changes in spark.
You have changed the CAS and the coil so you can rule those out.

If you cant get anything to misbehave and it still plays up when driving then Id be packing the ECU up and sending it off back to Microtech for an expensive repair. And charge you dearly they will!!!!
Part of the fun of using a Microtech!!

L8r
Oracle.

poeticjustice88 · Post by **poeticjustice88** » Mon May 21, 2012 5:52 pm

i replaced the coil with the same one as was in it, HEC 716 looks exactly the same, however i can not remember the part number of the one i got. i do believe it is the same as a falcon one, not sure what model falcon though.

i have done the config on the microtech with the plugs out, everything looks to be running properly, with solid spark, and in time.

After replacing the CAS on saturday i went for a drive, and it drove well. sunday and today i have had no problems with it at all, it seems to be driving the way it should. when i replaced the CAS i also replaced the wiring between that transistor and the dizzie. so i can not be sure if one or the other was the culprit

as for the ECU. F*CK sending it in to microtech. i would just buy a new one for that price. but not a microtech. have heard good things about too many different types of ECU's, so i will do some research on that fact if it comes down to it

Michael