Callumgw wrote:look, even back in 1984 when My dads car first went back with what turned out to be 'ecu plug issues' (not correctly identified until early 90's) the error codes were through all sorts of rubbish not related to the problem.
These are very early ECUs and their diagnostics were first generation and understandably poor.
I just wouldn't put much reliance on them.
C
Oh so true. If it works don't fix it is what I've always said
Callumgw wrote:look, even back in 1984 when My dads car first went back with what turned out to be 'ecu plug issues' (not correctly identified until early 90's) the error codes were through all sorts of rubbish not related to the problem.
These are very early ECUs and their diagnostics were first generation and understandably poor.
I just wouldn't put much reliance on them.
C
Yup, I dont put ANY on them!!!!!!!!!
L8r
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
lets say, the error codes can get you a hint of what is not right with the system, when you know your stuff.
they definitely do not tell you how to fix a problem, like change this part and everything is ok again.
so nothing for the modern mechanics who can only plug in their diag-computer and install new parts ...
boosted wrote:lets say, the error codes can get you a hint of what is not right with the system, when you know your stuff.
they definitely do not tell you how to fix a problem, like change this part and everything is ok again.
so nothing for the modern mechanics who can only plug in their diag-computer and install new parts ...
It's clarifying that N12 turbo manual explains for example error code 12 as "AFM circuit is malfunctioning" and not something like "AFM is malfunctioning." But I think connector problems are not emphasized enough there in manual's diagnostic flow charts..
Hi
Sorted the problem out about the car cutting out I basically changed the dizzy internels and ran good but starting cutting out again so then changed tps sensor then it sorted the problem yaaay lol
Kimmo wrote:It's not a throttle position sensor, it's an idle switch.
Be surprised if it makes that much difference.
you are sort of on the right track kimmo. From memory, the throtal switch adds a handfull of ignition timing when triggered. So if it isn't "off" when you set your base timing, the engine will be missing out on 6deg or so of timing when driving, which will make the engine feel sluggish.
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
if the switch stays closed, the car would definitely not run above 2000revs(or up to 3500, depening on coolant temp).
a randomly shorting switch could cause severe problems i guess.
but then again, it wouldn't backfire because the fuel would be shut off....
