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Head Gasket Help

General chat related to anything N12.
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Ash
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Post by Ash »

Panda_ET wrote:
adamp wrote:mechanic at cooper automotive where i used to work
COOOO.....PPERRRRR AUTO MOTIVE

their ad sucks
so does their advice by the sound of it. :roll:
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Panda_ET wrote:
COOOO.....PPERRRRR AUTO MOTIVE
Fuck you Panda, I simply cannot get that jingle out of my head now..........youll pay for that you frikken arsehole!!!!!!!!

L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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et_rider
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Post by et_rider »

wis41 wrote:there is a little tip i was told to do when fitting a new gasket. Once its all back together and ready to start up again, turn the engine on before adding any coolant and let it run for about 2-3 minutes (no longer!) - this apparently helps the new gasket 'seal' around the edges. Anyone else heard of this?? I did this when i put mine back together and have'nt had any problems since..
i was told the same thing bye an idiot makanic i used to go to so i tryed it and well it worked but warped the head in the corners the best way to set you gasket in is to add just water not tap water or your head will corode biol water or filltered water if you have and diskonet you fan and when you start it for the first time with the cap off make shore you keep toping it up when full and been running for a bit put the cap on and run untill the temp gets to just abouve 3 quter way then hook the fan up bit risky cause its hot in there but you a tuff army dude so you can handle it the fan will kick in strait away so it will give you a shock so be ready and KEEP YOUR HANDS AWAY FROM THE FAN lol remeber to look for leaks and hissing
I have done this with all of my heads i have replaced and they have all been fine with the seal and after you have driven her for about 1000km empty all of the water out replace with anti corrode coolant and retention the head if you are only using the standered head bolts good luck if you get confused you have my number im more then willing to give ya a hand if need be and remeber were all of the bolts go

cheers etrider
Boost+pulsar = goodness = pain :(
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adamp
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Post by adamp »

so ur pretty much saying what i said ???
EXA sold :)
hurdy_boy
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head gasket

Post by hurdy_boy »

well i got ya back there adam ive been shown the same way and still do it today.
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

This business of shonky head gasket "setting in" or whatever else you call it with just water, no water, fresh air, disconnected fans or a jungle juice of Coca-Cola and frikken battery acid is such a load of bollocks I'm having difficulty keeping my dinner down.

The part you want to seal well is the metal fire ring around each cylinder and IT HAS NO FUCKEN SEALANT to "set". youd be doing well to use any sealant that wont burn away apart from exhaust flange gasket cemet and if you try that on a head gasket then you should stick to oiling the chain on your pushbike as thats going to be a mighty stretch for you!

It simply relies on a mechanical plain seal between the 2 sides of the steel ring and the head and block surfaces with the gasket material inbetween maintaining positive pressure.

For fucks sake, there is no such thing as setting gaskets or whatever using some funky heat method.
As one of you so painfully and expensively found out. What an imbecile to advise you of suck a stupid thing to do....O...M...G!!!

It is CRUCIAL that the mating surfaces around each cylinder bore are completely free of any reaining traces of coked up oil and any other contamination and most important of all, scratches from moronic heavy handed use of innapropriate scrapers such as sharpened screwdriver blades, steel rule ends, chunks of sharpened steel plate and old kitchen knives.
All of which have been used before along with the blunt ends of old files leaving scratches on the mating surfaces which can provide a microscopic pathway for hot gas to travel along which might seal up with carbon/coke or might just end up eating the mating surfaces away enough to eventually lead to a blown a gasket.
This one is almost always cylinder gas into the water system.
Some gaskets have some sealant around oil delivery and return holes and less often around water passages. Its rarely necessary to seal off water passages and so-on unless you are using a solid gasket.

Heres the thing;

1: Turn the heater tap ON. Some cars may have an external air bleed point at the highest point in the cooling system which must be open.

2: You fill SLOWLY, your brand new motor with (preferrably distilled) water, add appropriate percentage of coolant and water inhibitor or just premixed coolant of a good brand.
So long as the bypass circuit has not been modified by some Einstein, foolishly attempting to re-inventing the wheel or the wrong thermostat has been fitted by some dumbarse, (like should have a "jiggler" or air bleed valve fitted but does not (Ive been guilty of this when i was once a younger dickhead)) the system should self bleed of air.

3: Fill it right up. Leave the radiator cap OFF. Shut the bleed valve when coolant pours out cleanly.

4: Start engine and run on 1800 to 2000rpm. Ie: fast idle. (This fast idle is CRUCIAL to the correct bedding in of newly ground cams and followers if so fitted).
When engine approaches operating temp the thermostat will open and release any further trapped air.
The thermostat will open well before any fans start.
if the thermostats dont open and the engine boils, you most likely have the wrong thermostat fitted (no jiggler) an old one thats rooted (in which case you deserve to lunch your precious engine) or the coolant bypass setup has been either changed or blocked off by some fuckhead preventing the coolant from actually circulating sufficiently while the thermostat is sut.

4: Top up the system whilst the engine is hot and running with more coolant.
Open up the bleed valve again to release any further air trapped in there.
Replace and tighten the radiator cap.
Dont forget to add coolant to the expansion tank to the HOT level indicator.
Turn off the heater tap iffen its a hot day.

There you go ladies. Filling and bleeding the typical engine cooling system.

Please please please do yourselves a favour and just forget/loose any of those stupid and funky backyard filling and "setting" procedures some bozos m8 told you about.

If in doubt, why dont you just consult a service manual?

Damn................ I need a Panadol and a good lie down now.

L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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Panda_ET
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Post by Panda_ET »

Ash wrote:
Panda_ET wrote:
adamp wrote:mechanic at cooper automotive where i used to work
COOOO.....PPERRRRR AUTO MOTIVE

their ad sucks
so does their advice by the sound of it. :roll:
yes ash most "workshops" around her eat penis
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Post by adamp »

well if we've both been told by qualified mechanics then it must be abit more believeable than what these 'net warriors' say, lol.
EXA sold :)
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Righto then you gullible goose. Believe whatever you like.

What did you call me...oh hang on, a "net warrior"..thats right.
A net warrior who happens to be a qualified.... wait for it.....mechanic.

Say it slowly as I know you dont hear too fast, ready?

Meh...can...nick.

Easy isnt it!
Thats right mechanic.
Im a dual trade holder actually, Im also an qualified aircraft maintenace engineer but I must be some kind of know-nothing fuckhead eh?

So stick it up your arse M8, go ahead, fry your engine like some other poor dude did coz he took some "advice" from a "qualified mechanic".
Ill be laughing loudest.

Some people!

L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
gettu
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Post by gettu »

tassuperkart wrote:
So stick it up your arse M8, go ahead, fry your engine like some other poor dude did coz he took some "advice" from a "qualified mechanic".
Ill be laughing loudest.

Some people!

L8tr
E
be sure your mechanic buddy does other than Hondas too so you don't end up like this poor champ here (yea' i know it's old and fake, but anyway)

http://autotrend.activeboard.com/index. ... D=14209659

t3h int3rnets w4rr1ors united

(ps. i also did just blew my gasket, been querying for a Cometic MLS head gasket. when i have the time to take it apart, i will send the head for straightening to the head shop(and use proper methdods of cleaning the block))
adamp
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Post by adamp »

tassuperkart wrote:Righto then you gullible goose. Believe whatever you like.

What did you call me...oh hang on, a "net warrior"..thats right.
A net warrior who happens to be a qualified.... wait for it.....mechanic.

Say it slowly as I know you dont hear too fast, ready?

Meh...can...nick.

Easy isnt it!
Thats right mechanic.
Im a dual trade holder actually, Im also an qualified aircraft maintenace engineer but I must be some kind of know-nothing fuckhead eh?

So stick it up your arse M8, go ahead, fry your engine like some other poor dude did coz he took some "advice" from a "qualified mechanic".
Ill be laughing loudest.

Some people!

L8tr
E
what the fuck is your problem? no need to get so affended i wasn't talking directly at u, u think ur a fucking encyclopedia or something? seems that way by the shit u were talking on the w.e
EXA sold :)
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et_rider
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Post by et_rider »

adamp wrote:so ur pretty much saying what i said ???
yes if you are saying it with water but from what it sounded you ment with no water at all like bone dry if not then i apoligise for the mix up
Boost+pulsar = goodness = pain :(
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et_rider
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Post by et_rider »

tassuperkart wrote:This business of shonky head gasket "setting in" or whatever else you call it with just water, no water, fresh air, disconnected fans or a jungle juice of Coca-Cola and frikken battery acid is such a load of bollocks I'm having difficulty keeping my dinner down.

The part you want to seal well is the metal fire ring around each cylinder and IT HAS NO FUCKEN SEALANT to "set". youd be doing well to use any sealant that wont burn away apart from exhaust flange gasket cemet and if you try that on a head gasket then you should stick to oiling the chain on your pushbike as thats going to be a mighty stretch for you!

It simply relies on a mechanical plain seal between the 2 sides of the steel ring and the head and block surfaces with the gasket material inbetween maintaining positive pressure.

For fucks sake, there is no such thing as setting gaskets or whatever using some funky heat method.
As one of you so painfully and expensively found out. What an imbecile to advise you of suck a stupid thing to do....O...M...G!!!

It is CRUCIAL that the mating surfaces around each cylinder bore are completely free of any reaining traces of coked up oil and any other contamination and most important of all, scratches from moronic heavy handed use of innapropriate scrapers such as sharpened screwdriver blades, steel rule ends, chunks of sharpened steel plate and old kitchen knives.
All of which have been used before along with the blunt ends of old files leaving scratches on the mating surfaces which can provide a microscopic pathway for hot gas to travel along which might seal up with carbon/coke or might just end up eating the mating surfaces away enough to eventually lead to a blown a gasket.
This one is almost always cylinder gas into the water system.
Some gaskets have some sealant around oil delivery and return holes and less often around water passages. Its rarely necessary to seal off water passages and so-on unless you are using a solid gasket.

Heres the thing;

1: Turn the heater tap ON. Some cars may have an external air bleed point at the highest point in the cooling system which must be open.

2: You fill SLOWLY, your brand new motor with (preferrably distilled) water, add appropriate percentage of coolant and water inhibitor or just premixed coolant of a good brand.
So long as the bypass circuit has not been modified by some Einstein, foolishly attempting to re-inventing the wheel or the wrong thermostat has been fitted by some dumbarse, (like should have a "jiggler" or air bleed valve fitted but does not (Ive been guilty of this when i was once a younger dickhead)) the system should self bleed of air.

3: Fill it right up. Leave the radiator cap OFF. Shut the bleed valve when coolant pours out cleanly.

4: Start engine and run on 1800 to 2000rpm. Ie: fast idle. (This fast idle is CRUCIAL to the correct bedding in of newly ground cams and followers if so fitted).
When engine approaches operating temp the thermostat will open and release any further trapped air.
The thermostat will open well before any fans start.
if the thermostats dont open and the engine boils, you most likely have the wrong thermostat fitted (no jiggler) an old one thats rooted (in which case you deserve to lunch your precious engine) or the coolant bypass setup has been either changed or blocked off by some fuckhead preventing the coolant from actually circulating sufficiently while the thermostat is sut.

4: Top up the system whilst the engine is hot and running with more coolant.
Open up the bleed valve again to release any further air trapped in there.
Replace and tighten the radiator cap.
Dont forget to add coolant to the expansion tank to the HOT level indicator.
Turn off the heater tap iffen its a hot day.

There you go ladies. Filling and bleeding the typical engine cooling system.

Please please please do yourselves a favour and just forget/loose any of those stupid and funky backyard filling and "setting" procedures some bozos m8 told you about.

If in doubt, why dont you just consult a service manual?

Damn................ I need a Panadol and a good lie down now.

L8tr
E

Hay Thats a good point do we have bleed valves i havent seen one b4 im not have a go at you ar taken the piss out of you im very curius

thanks et rider

Aiden i will call ya today mate
Boost+pulsar = goodness = pain :(
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Aaidan
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Post by Aaidan »

aaaaaa
Last edited by Aaidan on Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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et_rider
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Post by et_rider »

Aaidan wrote:hey et rider, im workn till 10 pm 2nite, and till 6 pm tomorrow nite, u can call me after 6pm tomorrow nite cos i will have my phone on

cheers
No Porbs mate and congrates on your success with the job a good to see ya doin somthin with your life catch up soon man have a beer or somthing :lol:
Boost+pulsar = goodness = pain :(
My Ride
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4600
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