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OT: grunertee's N13 with E15ET (a/c) + B11 VAN with E15ET
Thx, going on with the project..
Had to make a new oil pipe for the little t2. This exhaust manifold needs some coating later, too rusty now. Clutch plate is Exedys ca16de clutch plate.
Had to make a new oil pipe for the little t2. This exhaust manifold needs some coating later, too rusty now. Clutch plate is Exedys ca16de clutch plate.
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Got the car now running and going. Had some injector problems first and leakage in the intake manifold (overpressure relief valve) which caused hesitations and poor idle.
Here is transfer pump assembly next to fuel tank: This Facet pump (solid state competition) is really noisy. Tried some rubber insulation in the mounting but didn't really help.
And some electrics solutions: Next thing to do is bigger exhaust.
Here is transfer pump assembly next to fuel tank: This Facet pump (solid state competition) is really noisy. Tried some rubber insulation in the mounting but didn't really help.
And some electrics solutions: Next thing to do is bigger exhaust.
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Found out a new intake leak in brake booster check valve. Fixing this helped to make idle more stable.
New pipe now welded (diameter 60mm - 63.5 mm):
Two little Simons dampers and a cat. A bit more low-pitched sound when listened behind the car.
Size differrences between old and new pipes: Wideband lambda showed that idle is too lean (AFR 15.3-16) for this motor and doesn't sound too smooth either. Have to double check intake leaks and maybe do some tuning.
New pipe now welded (diameter 60mm - 63.5 mm):
Two little Simons dampers and a cat. A bit more low-pitched sound when listened behind the car.
Size differrences between old and new pipes: Wideband lambda showed that idle is too lean (AFR 15.3-16) for this motor and doesn't sound too smooth either. Have to double check intake leaks and maybe do some tuning.
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
-
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:14 pm
- Location: Netherlands
Looks great mate!
I thought you can set your mixture with the valve on the MAF/AFM. There is a screw on that one and turning to the right makes the car righer. Without a CO-meter you have to screw till the engine rised his highiest RPM-note. Thats the correct air/fuel mixture. Then you have to put your timing on 15-17 degrees when it wasn't correct and then you have to readjust your idle on 750 +-50 RPM.
Good luck!
I thought you can set your mixture with the valve on the MAF/AFM. There is a screw on that one and turning to the right makes the car righer. Without a CO-meter you have to screw till the engine rised his highiest RPM-note. Thats the correct air/fuel mixture. Then you have to put your timing on 15-17 degrees when it wasn't correct and then you have to readjust your idle on 750 +-50 RPM.
Good luck!
Nissan Cherry N12 1.3 and 1.5
Nissan X-TRAIL 2.5 Columbia Style
Nissan X-TRAIL 2.5 Columbia Style
Thx! Yes, but want to repair intake leaks first. Found out some new ones with more sensitive methods. In conclusion, found minor leaks in 1) faulty overpressure valve (could inhale slowly through it when took it apart) 2) faulty brake booster check valve 3) flexible hose connecting log and AFM, 4) hose connecting idle control devices and intake manifold.nissancherryn12 wrote:Looks great mate!
I thought you can set your mixture with the valve on the MAF/AFM. There is a screw on that one and turning to the right makes the car righer. Without a CO-meter you have to screw till the engine rised his highiest RPM-note. Thats the correct air/fuel mixture. Then you have to put your timing on 15-17 degrees when it wasn't correct and then you have to readjust your idle on 750 +-50 RPM.
Good luck!
Tried this first, only compressed air and hissing noise near leaking part (accelerator pedal was pressed down with a tool, max 1 bar pressure): And then this (i think better and easier way) with sprayed hand soap water bubbling in leaking locations when intake manifold was pressurized ( acc pedal first up and then pressed down also, and later plugged PCV valve).
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Well, got car inspection through for this B11 van tech couple of days ago, so it's now street legal here (not necessarily easy task here in Finland with this combo).
Some minor mods...
Lighter pulley wheel from a carbureted model: N13 cooler liquid tank + a custom support (didn't find n12 turbo original parts for this):
Some minor mods...
Lighter pulley wheel from a carbureted model: N13 cooler liquid tank + a custom support (didn't find n12 turbo original parts for this):
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
- TurboZ.Dude
- Posts: 1360
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:25 pm
- Location: Närpes, Finland
- Contact:
Congrats!grunertee wrote:Well, got car inspection through for this B11 van tech couple of days ago, so it's now street legal here (not necessarily easy task here in Finland with this combo).
My N12:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4926,
http://www.zxoc.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6345
http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthr ... Pulsar-N12
in all honesty dude these cars are shit but they have so much character, are fun and go fairly well when running right. we still play around with these things because they are a fun addictive little shitbox! - Ash
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4926,
http://www.zxoc.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6345
http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthr ... Pulsar-N12
in all honesty dude these cars are shit but they have so much character, are fun and go fairly well when running right. we still play around with these things because they are a fun addictive little shitbox! - Ash
Some things done..
-mangels 15" steel rims and applicable "Sunny" 185/55 tires -front stabilizer bar installed (optional accessory in european van) -rear drums renewed (cosmetic reasons) -eighties (?) Britax sunroof installed (this was a bit scary ) -a leaking coolant hose connection another day.. -rpm-meter installed (old more ascetic version of gauges on top): -got tired of repairing this leaking intake air hose with vulcanizing tape (ordered new part from USA):
-mangels 15" steel rims and applicable "Sunny" 185/55 tires -front stabilizer bar installed (optional accessory in european van) -rear drums renewed (cosmetic reasons) -eighties (?) Britax sunroof installed (this was a bit scary ) -a leaking coolant hose connection another day.. -rpm-meter installed (old more ascetic version of gauges on top): -got tired of repairing this leaking intake air hose with vulcanizing tape (ordered new part from USA):
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
- TurboZ.Dude
- Posts: 1360
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:25 pm
- Location: Närpes, Finland
- Contact:
Nice! I like it all! Did you correct the odometer reading before installing the new gauge cluster?
Where did you find so good dust shields/base plates for the rear drums? I can't seem to get hold of a set from anywhere! New drums are available at eBay but no dust shields...
Where did you find so good dust shields/base plates for the rear drums? I can't seem to get hold of a set from anywhere! New drums are available at eBay but no dust shields...
My N12:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4926,
http://www.zxoc.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6345
http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthr ... Pulsar-N12
in all honesty dude these cars are shit but they have so much character, are fun and go fairly well when running right. we still play around with these things because they are a fun addictive little shitbox! - Ash
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4926,
http://www.zxoc.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6345
http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthr ... Pulsar-N12
in all honesty dude these cars are shit but they have so much character, are fun and go fairly well when running right. we still play around with these things because they are a fun addictive little shitbox! - Ash
It should be possible to change odometer module from the old gauge cluster ( to-do list grows..)TurboZ.Dude wrote:Nice! I like it all! Did you correct the odometer reading before installing the new gauge cluster?
Where did you find so good dust shields/base plates for the rear drums? I can't seem to get hold of a set from anywhere! New drums are available at eBay but no dust shields...
It's possible to buy rear drum brake shields from Nissan (Autokeskus), and price is 101 euros per shield in Finland (corresponds 124 Australian dollars per shield). I just removed rusts from old shields and painted those, welding was not needed.
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
- TurboZ.Dude
- Posts: 1360
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:25 pm
- Location: Närpes, Finland
- Contact:
Good point, it should be the same speedo mechanism anyway!grunertee wrote:It should be possible to change odometer module from the old gauge cluster ( to-do list grows..)
Whoa, that's expensive! I think I'll upgrade to rear discs from the ET instead.grunertee wrote:It's possible to buy rear drum brake shields from Nissan (Autokeskus), and price is 101 euros per shield in Finland (corresponds 124 Australian dollars per shield). I just removed rusts from old shields and painted those, welding was not needed.
My N12:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4926,
http://www.zxoc.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6345
http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthr ... Pulsar-N12
in all honesty dude these cars are shit but they have so much character, are fun and go fairly well when running right. we still play around with these things because they are a fun addictive little shitbox! - Ash
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4926,
http://www.zxoc.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6345
http://forums.mightycarmods.com/showthr ... Pulsar-N12
in all honesty dude these cars are shit but they have so much character, are fun and go fairly well when running right. we still play around with these things because they are a fun addictive little shitbox! - Ash
-
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:14 pm
- Location: Netherlands