Jan's N/A Pulsar [pix + vidz 2013-03-23]

Post by **tassuperkart** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:11 pm

Oh come on dude. Its not rocket science.

Both turbo and atmo blocks are IDENTICAL with the thickened "pads" already cast into the block at the correct places.

You just drill into the rear main oil gallery bellhousing end) and tap it for you favourite threaded adapter.

The drain is just a drilled hole in the front of the block (lower right side as you face it) with a chunk of 14 (or something) mm tube pressed and glued in.

Machine shop would charge you a couple of dollars for the job which would take approximately 10 minutes including a coffee.

L8tr
E

TurboZ.Dude · Post by **TurboZ.Dude** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:29 pm

tassuperkart wrote:Both turbo and atmo blocks are IDENTICAL with the thickened "pads" already cast into the block at the correct places.

Yes, that much I know. I've located the pads.

tassuperkart wrote:You just drill into the rear main oil gallery bellhousing end) and tap it for you favourite threaded adapter.

The drain is just a drilled hole in the front of the block (lower right side as you face it) with a chunk of 14 (or something) mm tube pressed and glued in.

So it's that easy? OK... I was worried about cracking the block. Well then, I'll probably use my old N/A block anyway (or get another one if mine is too worn). Thanks m8!

Post by **tassuperkart** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 8:27 am

You wont crack it M8.
Thats why the block has those thickened areas cast into it.

I imagine you could possibly crack the block if you attempt to drill it using a jackhammer but a steady hand and a hand drill is all thats necessary at the very least!!!

L8tr
E

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:42 am

I'd be a bit worried about leaving swarf in the oil gallery...

TurboZ.Dude · Post by **TurboZ.Dude** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:28 pm

tassuperkart wrote:You wont crack it M8.
Thats why the block has those thickened areas cast into it.

Good to know M8, thanks.

tassuperkart wrote:I imagine you could possibly crack the block if you attempt to drill it using a jackhammer

Hahahaha...

well, a jackhammer would not be the first tool I'd use for that purpose.

tassuperkart wrote:but a steady hand and a hand drill is all thats necessary at the very least!!!

L8tr
E

I don't have a steady hand, I'm afraid I would drill oval holes.

Kimmo wrote:I'd be a bit worried about leaving swarf in the oil gallery...

Yeah, that wouldn't do much good... may do a lot of damage to the oil system. The oil system probably needs to be flushed through a couple of times... but how to get the swarf to come off the edges on the inside of the hole ... that's a challenge. Maybe I leave that to the professionals and check afterwards if they have been able to get all the swarf out.

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:23 pm

Can you magnetise a drill bit?

dexi_styles · Post by **dexi_styles** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:00 pm

Kimmo wrote:Can you magnetise a drill bit?

I know my drill bit is. I was drilling a piece of metal for a yet to be posted mod and it was magnified, but it wont pick up the bits thrown all over me..... Grrrr!!! hehehe!

Dex

BLUE ET · Post by **BLUE ET** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:24 pm

gotta love those magnified drill bits eh?

boosted · Post by **boosted** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:27 pm

tassuperkart wrote:Oh come on dude. Its not rocket science.

Both turbo and atmo blocks are IDENTICAL with the thickened "pads" already cast into the block at the correct places.

You just drill into the rear main oil gallery bellhousing end) and tap it for you favourite threaded adapter.

The drain is just a drilled hole in the front of the block (lower right side as you face it) with a chunk of 14 (or something) mm tube pressed and glued in.

Machine shop would charge you a couple of dollars for the job which would take approximately 10 minutes including a coffee.

L8tr
E

hello,
second thing would be getting another hole machined for the knock sensor, wouldn't it? (i think the car would run without one, though?)
greets
martin

Post by **tassuperkart** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:14 pm

Not too sure here but from memory the hole is already there.
L8tr
E

TurboZ.Dude · Post by **TurboZ.Dude** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:02 pm

tassuperkart wrote:Not too sure here but from memory the hole is already there.
L8tr
E

This one perhaps?

From what I recall it is already threaded (but I can't tell from the photo)... but I'm not sure what it is for. Don't tell me I'm completely wrong and this is a fitting for the water-to-oil cooler?

boosted · Post by **boosted** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:37 pm

looks good to me...
http://www.n12turbo.com/cars/dave/03_10_03/DSC08256.JPG

boosted · Post by **boosted** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:15 pm

hi jan,
maybe i wrote a bit too enthusiastic about the w/c turbo setup.
of course, the non w/c turbo would work well enough, too

(we will see which parts you will be able to purchase)
anyway, as promised, the parts that are involved in the w/c turbo setup:

how they are connected
http://static.nissan4u.com/epc_img/14131811517142.png
greets
martin

TurboZ.Dude · Post by **TurboZ.Dude** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:54 am

Oh, that's how the setup looks. Thanks for the photos M8!

Well, maybe I'll stick to the ordinary oil-cooled setup for now, that's a pretty serious modification.

I'm not saying I will never do that mod, but I'll most probably not do it until the N12 is out of the daily driver "duty". And that will probably not happen anytime soon.

fitzmooney · Post by **fitzmooney** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:45 am

No need for the pipe and casting.
Just tee into your heater hoses at the back of the motor.
Cheers,
Mike