Tassuperkarts GX Turbo (Updated again!)

Post by **Ash** » Wed May 16, 2007 2:05 am

got to bed Ben! you also need some snooze time me thinks

Post by **tassuperkart** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 3:21 pm

Ive been busily creating a new loom for the Microtech MT-8 Im installing in wifeys GX/ET.
This MT-8 was the original one fitted to my FJ20et which I had modified for multiple coil outputs ages ago.
Im pulling out the EMS Ti-3 system as that system cannot run multiple coils and is destined to run the turbocharged EFI Volkswagen engine I have built for the Vee.

I started with the original stock ET wiring loom and a set of Microtech ecu plugs that were cut off right near the plugs i got with one of the MT-8's.
I stayed with an original loom to do away with having non-standard CAS plugs and lost of joints on the CAS side.

Stripped the whole loom out and puled out any wiring I didnt need and strung thru the new wiring i wanted.

The Hyundai double ended coils will sit against the drivers side strut tower so i ran all that wiring right along the injector lead to keep everything down to the barest minimum.
The way the leads run, this is the neatest place to mount the coils on their stock brackets.

Every joint i have made in the loom has been soldered and backed up with heat shrink tubing. I soldered all joints to remove the possibility of resistance at crimped joints as time goes by.
Soldered joints can break right where the solder ends when flexing so i have tried to keep equal length on all wires as best i can.

Every negative side wire returns to both the engine manifold in the stock spot and the whole earth side eventually goes directly back to the battery post.

The main power, fuel pump relays and fuses are located behind the center console and so all +ive side switching will be done from inside the car.

The job of extracting every pin from the Microtech plugs, soldering and heat shrinking is quite a time consuming exercise but better this than 175 big ones for a new loom and I would STILL have had to attach all new injector and sensor plugs. Bah! Im lazy thats all.

For anybody who wants to know, the BIM 200 Bosch Trigger Im using is a dual channel "dumb" trigger that is self powered off the negative post of the coils. They are worth 180 bucks from Petroject.
This is a far cheaper option than a pair of BIM023 triggers at about 120 each.
However, those of you figuring on 4 coils would be well advised to go the 4 channel ignition trigger that Microtech sells. Haltech do them as well.
Cant beat the price from them for 4 triggers in a neat package.

The Hyundai (early 90's Excell) double ended coils are quite a low internal resistance coil and deliver monster sparks on really low dwell times. At 3.5Ms the things generate thunderbolts and still run cool.

I personally set them at 3Ms but will run as low as below 1Ms!
Plugs and leads must be pretty good or the spark will jump out from under the boot at thge coil post and down to earth.

I like to use either Magnecore zero resistance supression leads if I can get them in the right lengths or TopGun zero resistance supression leads which I can get in any length and terminbal I want as a special order. Repco will do them for you. The TopGuns are running fultlessly on the FJ20et with 4 sequential coils. Heres a set I prepared earlier!

Enjoy!

L8tr
E

Post by **The Renegade** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 9:50 pm

Nice job mate, that loom should be more reliable than the stock Nissan one!

SashET · Post by **SashET** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:25 am

Its looking good old man....

Cheers
Sash

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:42 am

Hey E,
not trying to be funny, when you say "3Ms" do you mean 3 milliseconds? Cause "3Ms" would be 3 Mega seconds (1000000seconds) but "3ms" would be 3 milliseconds (0.001seconds). Dwell is measured in seconds right?

C

Post by **tassuperkart** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:31 am

Callumn
Hahaha Ur right M8 and yes Ur right!

Miliseconds is the unit but it just appears as "(blah) Ms" on the tuning screen!!! At least i think it does anyway LOL!

To be honest I never much thought about it that way before.....blasted engineers!!!!
Now Im going to have to hook up the handpiece on the FJ20 to find out!!!!!
L8tr
E

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:38 am

ahh, well that would explain it perfectly!, these dam programs tend to be written by software coders, not engineers! These guys reckon their code is like art

bloody geeks

but look at me using their bloody emoticons

like they're

or something

Post by **tassuperkart** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:41 am

LMAO
L8tr
E

Post by **etking** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:57 pm

sweet work E, dont blow urself away by those coils lol

Post by **The Renegade** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 5:09 pm

Trivial fact:
I think it looks like Ms to make it look right on the fully sik low res dot matrix display.

SammyET · Post by **SammyET** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:08 am

bah what wuld u kno evan! flamin galah

Post by **tassuperkart** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 7:23 pm

PMSL!
L8tr
E

angel · Post by **angel** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:55 pm

Yeh i think its mazfix that sell the microtech external ignitor for only 100 bucks, which is fucken cheap (microtech sell them for $150 which is still cheap). pretty sure you can use it for a wasted spark set up. Im currently using one , very neat and easy to use.

You'll find doing the loom from the start is the best way, allows you to make everything perfect and neat. im pretty happy with my wiring after 3 goes that is.

Post by **tassuperkart** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:29 pm

Fitted up the Koni shocks and lowered King springs the other day.
These must be just "Low" springs as the car has dropped about 25mm at each end.
I did notice that the springs are would with a fair amount of "progressiveness" in them compared to the stock clobber.

The damping was set to the mid position.
Neway, I didnt get enough time to get another wheel alignment done after fitting up. I just sighted along the wheels by eye and got what i reckoned was close enough. The car has a fair bit extra of neg. camber and some toe-out but it can stay there for now. Aids braking stability anyway!!!!

Wifey and I took the Poohser up the east coast from Hobart for a couple of nights stay at Swansea.

This road is fairly challenging with some arsehole bend/camber and bump combinations seemingly intended to test out a new suspension setup.....of course I tried pretty hard as well!!

The toe out made the fronts screech a little more than expected on smooth bitumen but shit hey!
The car was a little weird on initial turn in due to the extra toe but apart from that i am very pleased with the performance of the suspension package in general versus the money spent.

The car rides surprisingly well over most road bumps and so-on with little of the harshness I was prolly expecting, but its when the suspension really gets asked the question that you know what you unloaded your hard earned readies on!
Some nasty changes resulted in a bit of a thump but never tho did the car loose its direction and poise as those Konis soaked up the big arsed mid-corner bumps nicely.

The slightly harder springs and lower ride height have reduced bodyroll remarkably.
The car is currently riding on skinny 165 x 65 x 13 cheese cutters and with the original suspension it swayed around a fair bit more than makes me comfortable when giving it a bit of a push, but the roll was reduced markedly with the new stuff.
So much so i doubt ill bother uprating the swaybars at all.

I dont want to alter the current balance of the car and start having to relay on tyre grip alone so Im comfortable with the amount of lean it generates now which must be less than half of what it was.

Roll will reduce again once I fit the ET 14's with the 185 x 60 clobber and this should provide a good level of grip and stability without compromising ride and comfort much more than now.

Money well spent.

L8tr
E

Android 360 · Post by **Android 360** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:32 pm

sounds like a nice setup

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Tassuperkarts GX Turbo (Updated again!)

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