Wheel Alignment

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 8:08 am

Anyone ever found the full factory wheel alignment specs? By that I mean all 4 wheels....I got the front from the manual but it doesn't have rears. I know for most people the rear isn't adjustable, but for some it is and for other it may have been 'adjusted' in an accident.....

Anyone?

C

Timmzy · Post by **Timmzy** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:48 pm

In short no.

But interesting you and I both have around -1.3 camber on the rear end and ALSO even more interesting is the fact that you and I have almost identical front end castor measurements. And they are different each side. I suspect Nissan might have done this to try and counter torque steer from the different length drivershafts.

Can I use your spreadsheet and add my measurements onto the end of your measurements? I'd like to keep this as a running document, as I suspect I will need to change my alignment again within the next 2 weeks

Darren.

Post by **tassuperkart** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:46 pm

Naw!
Funky differences are purely to reduce pulling/drifting to the left and excessive tyre wear on Australias high cambered roads!!!!!
Youll find Aus specs different to the rest of ther rhd world!!!

Set the bastards same each side for performance on the track.

Oracle

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:41 pm

tassuperkart wrote:Naw!
Funky differences are purely to reduce pulling/drifting to the left and excessive tyre wear on Australias high cambered roads!!!!!
Youll find Aus specs different to the rest of ther rhd world!!!

Set the bastards same each side for performance on the track.

Oracle

IIRC, the standard in Australia is: hands off the wheel, and the car should (eventually) steer off to the left of the road. Safety for when you pass out from having too many vodka cruzers behind the wheel!

Damo

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:35 am

Timmzy wrote: Can I use your spreadsheet and add my measurements onto the end of your measurements? I'd like to keep this as a running document, as I suspect I will need to change my alignment again within the next 2 weeks

Darren.

Yes most certainly. Happy for you pass on to others too. (I first used it for the MR2)

C

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:36 am

tassuperkart wrote: Set the bastards same each side for performance on the track.

Oracle

Caster is not adjustable on the front of our little babies....

Thats why I have been saying I wnat to use strut tops to primarily adjust caster, not camber (but camber would also be ok).

C

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:39 am

Timmzy wrote: But interesting you and I both have around -1.3 camber on the rear end
Darren.

I dialed it that way when I put in the rear toe. Worth noting that the camber and Toe are linked in the adjustable rear I put in....not completely because both inner and outer are adjustable you can get pretty close to both as you want, but changing one effects the other and you need to do a couple of adjustments to get it right.

C

Timmzy · Post by **Timmzy** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:40 am

Well in that case - I haven't touched the rear yet, so how much negative camber do you believe you can wind in with those eccentric commodore bushes.

Camber plates are going to be tricky, but they are required. With the standard struts - camber/caster plates won't have much adjustment because the strut will hit the sheet metal gussets. Anyway more on that later.

Darren.

Callumgw · Post by **Callumgw** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:48 am

I reckon you would get to about -3 comfortably.

As to the strut tops, it's been done before - brendan did and thats where those drawings came from. The issue was that the tower top hole is so small so theres not much adjustment. But it you switch to a solid bearing it can mbe much smaller and give better adjustment. Alternately you have the bearing plate flat on the top and protrude down into the tower, so now the adjustment limit is only the nut/washer.

C