Anyone ever found the full factory wheel alignment specs? By that I mean all 4 wheels....I got the front from the manual but it doesn't have rears. I know for most people the rear isn't adjustable, but for some it is and for other it may have been 'adjusted' in an accident.....
Anyone?
C
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Wheel Alignment
In short no.
But interesting you and I both have around -1.3 camber on the rear end and ALSO even more interesting is the fact that you and I have almost identical front end castor measurements. And they are different each side. I suspect Nissan might have done this to try and counter torque steer from the different length drivershafts.
Can I use your spreadsheet and add my measurements onto the end of your measurements? I'd like to keep this as a running document, as I suspect I will need to change my alignment again within the next 2 weeks![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Darren.
But interesting you and I both have around -1.3 camber on the rear end and ALSO even more interesting is the fact that you and I have almost identical front end castor measurements. And they are different each side. I suspect Nissan might have done this to try and counter torque steer from the different length drivershafts.
Can I use your spreadsheet and add my measurements onto the end of your measurements? I'd like to keep this as a running document, as I suspect I will need to change my alignment again within the next 2 weeks
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Darren.
Race it.
- tassuperkart
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Naw!
Funky differences are purely to reduce pulling/drifting to the left and excessive tyre wear on Australias high cambered roads!!!!!
Youll find Aus specs different to the rest of ther rhd world!!!
Set the bastards same each side for performance on the track.
Oracle
Funky differences are purely to reduce pulling/drifting to the left and excessive tyre wear on Australias high cambered roads!!!!!
Youll find Aus specs different to the rest of ther rhd world!!!
Set the bastards same each side for performance on the track.
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
IIRC, the standard in Australia is: hands off the wheel, and the car should (eventually) steer off to the left of the road. Safety for when you pass out from having too many vodka cruzers behind the wheel!tassuperkart wrote:Naw!
Funky differences are purely to reduce pulling/drifting to the left and excessive tyre wear on Australias high cambered roads!!!!!
Youll find Aus specs different to the rest of ther rhd world!!!
Set the bastards same each side for performance on the track.
Oracle
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
Yes most certainly. Happy for you pass on to others too. (I first used it for the MR2)Timmzy wrote: Can I use your spreadsheet and add my measurements onto the end of your measurements? I'd like to keep this as a running document, as I suspect I will need to change my alignment again within the next 2 weeks
Darren.
C
I dialed it that way when I put in the rear toe. Worth noting that the camber and Toe are linked in the adjustable rear I put in....not completely because both inner and outer are adjustable you can get pretty close to both as you want, but changing one effects the other and you need to do a couple of adjustments to get it right.Timmzy wrote: But interesting you and I both have around -1.3 camber on the rear end
Darren.
C
Well in that case - I haven't touched the rear yet, so how much negative camber do you believe you can wind in with those eccentric commodore bushes.
Camber plates are going to be tricky, but they are required. With the standard struts - camber/caster plates won't have much adjustment because the strut will hit the sheet metal gussets. Anyway more on that later.
Darren.
Camber plates are going to be tricky, but they are required. With the standard struts - camber/caster plates won't have much adjustment because the strut will hit the sheet metal gussets. Anyway more on that later.
Darren.
Race it.
I reckon you would get to about -3 comfortably.
As to the strut tops, it's been done before - brendan did and thats where those drawings came from. The issue was that the tower top hole is so small so theres not much adjustment. But it you switch to a solid bearing it can mbe much smaller and give better adjustment. Alternately you have the bearing plate flat on the top and protrude down into the tower, so now the adjustment limit is only the nut/washer.
C
As to the strut tops, it's been done before - brendan did and thats where those drawings came from. The issue was that the tower top hole is so small so theres not much adjustment. But it you switch to a solid bearing it can mbe much smaller and give better adjustment. Alternately you have the bearing plate flat on the top and protrude down into the tower, so now the adjustment limit is only the nut/washer.
C