N12Turbo.com lanyards are now available! Click here to visit the shop

Engine brace, please hear me out

General chat related to anything N12.
Post Reply
Forcd4
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:53 pm

Engine brace, please hear me out

Post by Forcd4 »

I was at a maztech dyno day many moons ago and a then mate of mine had a old school drop top Lexus rare 2 door, 7mgte, imported, with about 8 of us heavyweights all over the car it cranked over 500kw at the wheels and I may have ejaculated in my pants. One thing in the engine bay stood out to me. From both strut towers to the head were think purpose built steel braces that apparently were installed to stop engine twist and breaking engine mounts. I've busted countless mounts through engine twist would this work with a front wheeler?
User avatar
Callumgw
Posts: 2354
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Callumgw »

Its a little more difficult because the radiator support panel and firewall aren't very stiff - but it could be done.

the next issue, for the n12 anyway, is that the existing mounts aren't strong. For example, the rear mount through the gearbox commonly breaks - through the gearbox aluminium! thats with out braces. You brace it up and the load then escapes through the weakest link...the standard engine mounts.

So I'd rate it as possible, but maybe not helpful.

C
Forcd4
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:53 pm

Post by Forcd4 »

Dude I thought the same thing on this lex something gotta give. But I've split many a mount and when you see the twist on the dyno is it a bad thing. Meh splitting hairs maybe. But alot of hot rods are engine plate mounted no rubber.
User avatar
Callumgw
Posts: 2354
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Callumgw »

Its certainly do-able. If your building a drag car or horsepower hero - do it and prepare to beef up the material in the gearbox case (and other places).

But I wouldn't do it for a road car. The guys with 'solid' engine mounts say they are bad enough....
User avatar
shanec86
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 1454
Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Melbourne
Contact:

Post by shanec86 »

Forcd4
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:53 pm

Post by Forcd4 »

nah it was solid... no give just solid steel thick as fuck
User avatar
Damo
Posts: 1482
Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:46 pm
Location: Canberra

Post by Damo »

That would be almost undriveable for any lenght of time!

It would be like driving whilst a dentist is drilling all your teeth at once.

The F50 has its V12 bolted directly to the subframe, and that is supposed to be on the limit of what you could possibly use as a fortnightly drive. Now picture someone doing the same with a 4cyl non balance shafted engine from the 80,s :shock: :shock: :shock: , masochist much.


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
Forcd4
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:53 pm

Post by Forcd4 »

well mines balanced, but i still dont like the idea. was one of those mods i've seen that left me wondering if it would be worth doing
User avatar
tassuperkart
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 5578
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
Location: Southern Tasmania
Contact:

Post by tassuperkart »

Errrm, well, i have intimate knowledge of this.
I used to race a hillclimb car for a M8, It was a "Spridget" (half a Sprite half a Midget) With a stove hot "B" series engine bored to 2 litres.
The engine/transmission was solid mounted at 4 points to the chassis and that thing would go close to loosening your teeth!

L8r
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
User avatar
tassuperkart
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 5578
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
Location: Southern Tasmania
Contact:

Post by tassuperkart »

Forcd4 wrote:well mines balanced, but i still dont like the idea. was one of those mods i've seen that left me wondering if it would be worth doing
Balanced means nothing.
However, I like the idea of restraining the engine/transmission from rotating.

However, solid mounting without any cushion at all is brutal on transmissions and stripped diff gears would be the most common failure.

Give the engine "some" controlled movement via rubber bushes (NOT urethane) would probably give you the control you want and help with traction and transmission life.
The more rigid you make the entire show, the more likely you are to break traction and this is a luxury you dont have on a powerful FWD.

L8r
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
User avatar
Callumgw
Posts: 2354
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Callumgw »

Forcd4 wrote:well mines balanced, but i still dont like the idea. was one of those mods i've seen that left me wondering if it would be worth doing
There's "balanced" from an engine builders sense, which means they have set all the mass a "balanced" as they can. Then theres the bit that is "as good as they can". 4cyl engines will have a natural imbalance that gets more noticeable as the capacity gets bigger. Thats why the large 4's (normally in the 2lt + range) start to run balance shafts. These are shafts with mass that spins in the opposite sense to cancel out the natural vibrations of the engine.

C
User avatar
Callumgw
Posts: 2354
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Callumgw »

ohh, all that said, things like that bigg damper shock that Shane put up are a good compromise, they help the poe delivery, but you can keep your filling!

So the solid mount theory has merit, just practical limitations. If you're happy with the compromise or want to experiment - go for it!
For my sake if you do it I'd like to hear how it works so post up.

C
Post Reply