I think they get installed with a large blind rivet, thats what ones on my Starion were installed with before I have them removed and filled, back in the day....
Also the roof of the ET and Exa is very flimsy, I'd be sceptical about loading it with any sort of weight.
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roof pod for the N12
I figure somewhere near the pillars - with decent spacers underneath to spread the load?
I'll not be putting much weight into it. The man said their system had a 50kg limit, that's a lot more than I'd be putting up there, infact I was figuring about 25kg, the limit of my backpack carrying. That 'aint much, but you can get heaps of stuff into 25kg.
At present, I cannot even take a ladder to clear out a friend's gutters...
I'll not be putting much weight into it. The man said their system had a 50kg limit, that's a lot more than I'd be putting up there, infact I was figuring about 25kg, the limit of my backpack carrying. That 'aint much, but you can get heaps of stuff into 25kg.
At present, I cannot even take a ladder to clear out a friend's gutters...
Wind resistance at 100 clicks will be a bit more than 25kg...
IMO it'll be a right mission to engineer any strength into the roof; it really is flimsy.
But I guess if you wanted to do it properly, you'd make some pads out of fibreglass under the roof, 1/4" thick or more, reaching down to the pillars. mount your rack onto the the other side of a decent-sized bit of plate sandwiching the pad, and it could prolly hold 100kg, then.
IMO it'll be a right mission to engineer any strength into the roof; it really is flimsy.
But I guess if you wanted to do it properly, you'd make some pads out of fibreglass under the roof, 1/4" thick or more, reaching down to the pillars. mount your rack onto the the other side of a decent-sized bit of plate sandwiching the pad, and it could prolly hold 100kg, then.
At my mate's place in Cooma with a blown head gasket.
I did a retorque of the head about a week after putting it on, and he reckons doing it a third time, about 500-1000km later is always a good idea on old cars.
All is good - new kit arrives tomorrow.
I'm retiring the Pulsar from these long trips, and use it for putting around the Blue Mtns. Getting a old (year 2000) Holden or Ford for these trips.
I did a retorque of the head about a week after putting it on, and he reckons doing it a third time, about 500-1000km later is always a good idea on old cars.
All is good - new kit arrives tomorrow.
I'm retiring the Pulsar from these long trips, and use it for putting around the Blue Mtns. Getting a old (year 2000) Holden or Ford for these trips.
I've calmed down now.
The gasket wasn't blown. When I put it on (about 20,000km ago), I retorqued it after warming it up, then about a week later, but have realised I did not do it again at the 1,000km mark.
Basically, the head was a little loose, and starting to let water in, hence the missfiring in the morning.
I realised this when I got to Cooma, and took off the oil cap to add some oil, and saw a mass of whitish goo underneath it.
Fortunately, there was none on the dip stick, so it wasn't too bad.
So, at my mate's place in Cooma, under a big tarp erected over the bonnet, and with ample supply of booze, took the head off.
When doing so, found about four of the head bolts did not 'crack' when I freed them, infact, they came off quite easy. Woops.
The gasket was fine, and maybe all I had to do was retorque it down, but I shoved a new one in anyway, and had the whole job was done in 4 hours.
Still probably going to get myself an older Ford or Holden for the longer trips, but I've just driven from Cooma to Jindabine, and it's going well. Will do some fishing before the river season ends, then back to Cooma and check the head bolt torque again.
Also going to get some drivers door hinges from the wreckers - mine are very sloppy, and the driver door is starting to drop.
The gasket wasn't blown. When I put it on (about 20,000km ago), I retorqued it after warming it up, then about a week later, but have realised I did not do it again at the 1,000km mark.
Basically, the head was a little loose, and starting to let water in, hence the missfiring in the morning.
I realised this when I got to Cooma, and took off the oil cap to add some oil, and saw a mass of whitish goo underneath it.
Fortunately, there was none on the dip stick, so it wasn't too bad.
So, at my mate's place in Cooma, under a big tarp erected over the bonnet, and with ample supply of booze, took the head off.
When doing so, found about four of the head bolts did not 'crack' when I freed them, infact, they came off quite easy. Woops.
The gasket was fine, and maybe all I had to do was retorque it down, but I shoved a new one in anyway, and had the whole job was done in 4 hours.
Still probably going to get myself an older Ford or Holden for the longer trips, but I've just driven from Cooma to Jindabine, and it's going well. Will do some fishing before the river season ends, then back to Cooma and check the head bolt torque again.
Also going to get some drivers door hinges from the wreckers - mine are very sloppy, and the driver door is starting to drop.
Got the door hinges from the wreckers and fitted them today - no more wind noise! No more door jumping around on the hinge! It opens without dropping!
All is good, then. The engine is running sweetly, and the car is much quieter.
Cool bananas. Drive back to the Blueys tomorrow, and re torque the head bolts.
All is good, then. The engine is running sweetly, and the car is much quieter.
Cool bananas. Drive back to the Blueys tomorrow, and re torque the head bolts.
Checked the head bolts this morning, all was good. Adjusted the valves; a couple were a bit tight, a couple were a bit loose.
Also checked out the rail connectors on two N12's in the local wreckers - as others have pointed out here, the clips ARE plastic, not metal.
I'll be modifying the metal strips (removing some metal) so I can secure the racks under the door roof line, for a secure mounting.
Also checked out the rail connectors on two N12's in the local wreckers - as others have pointed out here, the clips ARE plastic, not metal.
I'll be modifying the metal strips (removing some metal) so I can secure the racks under the door roof line, for a secure mounting.