Why wont this car stop running F@$cken rich!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 8:55 pm

Hi all, I'll give you a quick brief into where im at-:
NO air leaks from turbo to throttle-body (I pulled apart ever bit of the intercooling plumbing and tested it).
New plugs. (third set!!)
If i put my hand over the BOV vent it sucks against it when engine is running. (but when I blew through it, it was air-tight)
New wiring loom that has been zipped-tied to AFM and ECU.
Has a malpassi fuel regulator that was used in conjunction with an aftermarket ECU (microtec) now has standard ECU wired in correctly.

NOW into the drivability side of it -:
Idles smooth but increases to 1500rpm once warm.
Drives like a dog down low but if i take off with 3000rpm plus she wheel-spins, then goes like a rocket mostly then next take off its a bit flatter (WAY TO RICH!!!!) my plugs keeeeeep fouling up please help someone.

I have been reading this forum for quite a while and I realise there can be many potential problems. If there is anybody near Bayswater (where I live) that can come over and fix this problem, I'll certainly make it worth there while

I know I've said alot but I just want to register this beast and enjoy the pleasure of torque steer!!!

Cheers AntsET

j0of · Post by **j0of** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 8:58 pm

bov shouldnt suck against, leaky bov is the problem, remove it and all should be tiptop.

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:04 pm

Ok, if i block-off the BOV to see if this makes a difference, will it damage my turbo B4 i get a new BOV? I'm only asking because i've heard so many different stories about this!

Cheers AntsET

j0of · Post by **j0of** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:11 pm

AntsET, Block it off will be fine, theres alot of debate about the benifets and drawbacks/wank of a bov, i''m not going to say my opinion as not to start a shit storm but i think everyone will agree you will be fine to remove and block off your bov in the time being and it will not damage your turbo.

Is the bov Plumb Back or atmo,? remember to block the vac hose also,

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:20 pm

Yeah I know what your saying LOL!
It is an old plum-back type cheapo GFB BOV (no wonder its leaking LOL!)
Will do what you said, thanks heaps mate I appreciate it

Cheers AntsET

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:26 pm

I think it's idling high coz the idle has been turned up (log has been remomed = no cold/rich senor anymore).

I'm only guessing this coz the idle doesn't change when i put my hand over the BOV.

Cheers AntsET

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 5:33 pm

Hi j0of, i got a new BOV today and my car has nearly made no difference -
Still running rich and driving like a dog down low!!!!!!!!!! But I thank you for the tip that the BOV shouldn't suck against my hand while engine is running LOL! This new one doesn't suck at all LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!! HEEEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **tassuperkart** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:44 pm

Id suggest that the spring inside the AFM has been fiddled with or has released itself.
Allowing it to open way too far at lower engine revs and throttle openings.

L8tr
E

Kimmo · Post by **Kimmo** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:44 pm

Wouldn't too much fuel pressure do it?

Might be the aftermarket regulator's fault.

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:34 pm

Hi guys, tassuperkart i have tryed 3 different AFM's with no change.
Kimmo I think you might B on the right track with the fuel pressure.
gopulsar was saying he had many probs with the malpassi fuel reg so I'll change it back to standard and see if that makes any difference

Thanks heaps for all your ideas and advice

AntsET

n12sumfin · Post by **n12sumfin** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:06 am

might pay to check ignition timing

Post by **tassuperkart** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:22 am

AntsET wrote:Hi guys, tassuperkart i have tryed 3 different AFM's with no change.
Kimmo I think you might B on the right track with the fuel pressure.
gopulsar was saying he had many probs with the malpassi fuel reg so I'll change it back to standard and see if that makes any difference
Thanks heaps for all your ideas and advice

AntsET

It would be very helpful if youd simply list the changes that you have made in the original post which helps the rest of us narrow the possible causes down and save having to make suggestions you have already tried, like the AFM yer?

The ONLY thing mentioned there which may point to any drama is a Malpassi FPR and a BOV.
I would have thought you would have already fitted a fuel pressure guage in there as a matter of course and already determined 1: is the FPR a rising rate regulator and 2: is the pressure set correctly to begin with.

How exactly do you have the bov plumbed in to the system?
A BOV cant "suck" against your hand as it will NEVER see negative pressure if its plumbed in at all correctly.
It just sits between the turbo and the TB and lets out air when the TB is shut. There is NO sucking going on in there.

So help us help you out by detailing what changes and alterations you have actually made so we dont sit here typing out useless posts eh.

L8tr
E

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:18 pm

Hi guys. tassuperkart - Heres a run down-:
This car originaly (B4 I bought it) had a microtech LT8's computer and a Malpassi regulator (hence the reason I never checked the fuel pressure assuming that it was fine).
It has standard injectors.

Now the bloke I bought it off removed the microtech, cut the wires and sold it.
Then he attempted to re-wire the standard ECU and couldn't get it running.
I got it running by reading the wiring diagram and I had to put an extra earth to the AFM to get her running sweet (he had only twist wired the ECU LOL!!!). It went well for about a week or 2 then started running that crap that it was hardly drivable!
I had the diagnostics telling me that there was an AFM problem (no wonder considering that the wires were twisted together, even the wires just B4 the AFM!!), so I bought myself a new loom hoping all these problems would go away.
I still get AFM problem diagnostics with a new loom and me changing 3 different AFM's + 2 of these were definately working fine.
Now I have a car that runs too rich (3 sets of plugs later) and needs revs to get going.
The battery has been relocated into the boot by the previous owner which confuses me as to where the fuseable links are now?
I'll check the pressure and hope 4 the best.
This is all I can think of ATM and im sorry I didn't give all details.

Cheers AntsET

AntsET · Post by **AntsET** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:22 pm

Forgot to mention that a new BOV has been fitted correctly with no air leaks (no sucking against my hand anymore).

Cheers Antrusty

Post by **tassuperkart** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:24 pm

Ahhhh thats better, now we have something to work with.

Ok see what happens with the malpassi. It might well be a RR reg but you say it ran ok when you first got it going. So mebbe not.

Now, youll prolly find those fuseable links down near the starter motor.
The main power wires run from the loom behind the passengers headlight where the battery used to be.
Should be 3 thick wires White and white/red and black/red.
Perhaps they might be twisted together and the fuseable links just removed and run down to the starter motor.

Id also be paying careful attention to grounding of the engine as well.

Might very well be an earthing issue given the battery has been moved.
Any voltage drop on the negative side is bad.

Make sure there is a good thick earth where the battery is with no rust or paint under it bolted securely to the chassis rail.
Another big arsed bonding strap from the starter motor bolts to the chassis.

Then run a decent bonding wire from the stock earth point on the inlet manifold down to the chassis earth point.

See what happens after that.

L8tr
E