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1983 exa turbo - bayside blue and 81POLR!!!!
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
In the short term, just slot the starter motor mounting holes to slide the starter a mm or 2 towards the engine.
Check that the ringear is pressed hard back and evenly against the flywheel flange. If not your wasting your time with any workarounds.
Secondly, check the sliding intermediate gear in the starter snout for excessive slop, clean and lubricate. If the gear rattles around like a prick in a shirtsleeve then again, ur wasting time and its time for as starter reco.
These two mods should get you another year or two out of your starter setup.
When the time comes for a clutch, drop the gearbox and you will see that the ring gear teeth are only worn in 2 distinct areas as the engine always settles to a stop in two positions only.
So, pop the flywheel bolts and rotate the flywheel to the next bolt holes!
Voilah! Brand new and unworn ringear for nothing!
Oracle
Check that the ringear is pressed hard back and evenly against the flywheel flange. If not your wasting your time with any workarounds.
Secondly, check the sliding intermediate gear in the starter snout for excessive slop, clean and lubricate. If the gear rattles around like a prick in a shirtsleeve then again, ur wasting time and its time for as starter reco.
These two mods should get you another year or two out of your starter setup.
When the time comes for a clutch, drop the gearbox and you will see that the ring gear teeth are only worn in 2 distinct areas as the engine always settles to a stop in two positions only.
So, pop the flywheel bolts and rotate the flywheel to the next bolt holes!
Voilah! Brand new and unworn ringear for nothing!
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Have finished using POR15 on the front end, inside the car, tyre well and undercarriage. Next step was to pull out the steering rack and give it to the steering shop to get repaired/overhauled to make it nice and straight, then it gets the nolathane bushes pictured.
Front control arms are also off the car and i'll try to remove the old bushes myself before likely giving up and paying someone to do the dirty work lol
all in all progress is pretty smooth, although will have to tighten the budget due to some unexpected expenses
Front control arms are also off the car and i'll try to remove the old bushes myself before likely giving up and paying someone to do the dirty work lol
all in all progress is pretty smooth, although will have to tighten the budget due to some unexpected expenses
audio gear going into it has been finalised:
-alpine head unit
-alpine 6.5" speakers at the front
-unknown branded 400w 6x8 speakers at the rear
-rockford fosgate monoblock amp
-15" mtx thunder 8000 sub in box
confirmed the paint scheme, which is Nissan bayside blue, which will have to be converted from a 2k to an acrylic paint, and i'll increase the level of pearl in it.
After that's done I'll try and track down a set of white buddyclub P1 racing wheels to put on.
on a side note, found a hole in one of the intercooler pipes which is likely the cause of many headaches trying to resolve the idle issue...
-alpine head unit
-alpine 6.5" speakers at the front
-unknown branded 400w 6x8 speakers at the rear
-rockford fosgate monoblock amp
-15" mtx thunder 8000 sub in box
confirmed the paint scheme, which is Nissan bayside blue, which will have to be converted from a 2k to an acrylic paint, and i'll increase the level of pearl in it.
After that's done I'll try and track down a set of white buddyclub P1 racing wheels to put on.
on a side note, found a hole in one of the intercooler pipes which is likely the cause of many headaches trying to resolve the idle issue...
intercooler and piping is all back on, no more holes
front control arms have had new nolathane bushes pressed in, they'll go back in the car tonight along with the interior bar the dash which i haven't repaired yet
mate's coming over in 2 days time to cut and weld in patch panels for the rust on the radiator support and strut tower
progress is good....
front control arms have had new nolathane bushes pressed in, they'll go back in the car tonight along with the interior bar the dash which i haven't repaired yet
mate's coming over in 2 days time to cut and weld in patch panels for the rust on the radiator support and strut tower
progress is good....
the car is now officially rust free, just have to tidy up the welds on the patch panels and then por15 the last few remaining areas so happy it's not funny
mate advised me to insulate the car whilst I have it stripped down so I'll probably do that.
finalised the aesthetics, the car is going to be resprayed in r34 bayside blue with extra pearl, then have a replica group c sticker kit made up and 15" work equip 01's and a factory rubber boot spoiler. no poke, no sticker bombing, no stupid p plater shit is going on this car!
mate advised me to insulate the car whilst I have it stripped down so I'll probably do that.
finalised the aesthetics, the car is going to be resprayed in r34 bayside blue with extra pearl, then have a replica group c sticker kit made up and 15" work equip 01's and a factory rubber boot spoiler. no poke, no sticker bombing, no stupid p plater shit is going on this car!
all the carpet is out, threads have been repaired, front suspension and steering is all new and bolted onto the car, installed the new thermostat and flushed the cooling system, water pump was installed incorrectly so i'll have to do it again properly on the weekend
i have vinyl paint for the new dash, picking up some metal ready for the por15'ing of the rust repairs, and i'll jack up the back of the car and por15/replace the bushes there
then just insulate the interior, and the big job of painting the thing
oh yea... and since welding we lost power to the fuel pump. all wires are intact and were kept away from the welding, all fuses are intact but it doesn't power on at all.... ah well it will keep me busy
i have vinyl paint for the new dash, picking up some metal ready for the por15'ing of the rust repairs, and i'll jack up the back of the car and por15/replace the bushes there
then just insulate the interior, and the big job of painting the thing
oh yea... and since welding we lost power to the fuel pump. all wires are intact and were kept away from the welding, all fuses are intact but it doesn't power on at all.... ah well it will keep me busy
cooling system has been completed, dash has had a new crash pad installed and painted ready to go back in the car
got put in touch with a cheap auto parts store, so purchased a stock rear engine mount to replace the rooted one for the meantime
they also had 10mm topgun ignition leads available for $75 so i'll get a set custom made in a couple of weeks to go with the MSD blaster 3 ignition coil to ensure there is an overkill of spark
rear of the car is jacked up and halfway through removing the rear trailing arms to rebush them
not long now until the car gets sanded down and prepped for the respray...
got put in touch with a cheap auto parts store, so purchased a stock rear engine mount to replace the rooted one for the meantime
they also had 10mm topgun ignition leads available for $75 so i'll get a set custom made in a couple of weeks to go with the MSD blaster 3 ignition coil to ensure there is an overkill of spark
rear of the car is jacked up and halfway through removing the rear trailing arms to rebush them
not long now until the car gets sanded down and prepped for the respray...