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Tassuperkarts GX Turbo (Updated again!)
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Oh I just get Gorringes to do simple shit like that Baz.
I cant be arsed fiddlearseing around with such jobs.
DO NOT use Gorringes for balancing. Very bad rep. Sore real horror stories.
Tas Engines has just bought a state of the art balancer. Matt is pretty fussy with his stuff "IF" you can get him to do it!!!
Id trust him for the more detailed stuff.
Main thing is to spend some coin on some of your own measuring gear, Inside and outside micrometers and vernier calipers. Learn how to use them and check everything they have done. Only way youll know for sure if your stuff is right.
L8r
Oracle
I cant be arsed fiddlearseing around with such jobs.
DO NOT use Gorringes for balancing. Very bad rep. Sore real horror stories.
Tas Engines has just bought a state of the art balancer. Matt is pretty fussy with his stuff "IF" you can get him to do it!!!
Id trust him for the more detailed stuff.
Main thing is to spend some coin on some of your own measuring gear, Inside and outside micrometers and vernier calipers. Learn how to use them and check everything they have done. Only way youll know for sure if your stuff is right.
L8r
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
<nods in approval> ^^^
Vernias and Micrometers are cheap as. Costs $0 to check yourself and saves motza bux if something is out of whack.
Damo
Vernias and Micrometers are cheap as. Costs $0 to check yourself and saves motza bux if something is out of whack.
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Ive been very quiet on the engine building front lately.
I finally got going today, and built the basic short motor. All the ring end gapos were spot on so no filing needed and it all went to gether smoothly after hours of cleaning and preparation.
The engine I have chosen to build has been built using that fucken hard setting gasket cement shit fuck cunting piss!
The amount of work required just to remove and clean up the gasket faces is quite ridiculous..........
I spent over an hour cleaning off the face of the front engine cover and another hour on the oil-cooler assembly and still not finished......... Chroisst.
That hard setting shit should be banned and anyone caught using it should be castrated, hung, drawn and quartered!
I personally use RTV silicone gasket maker and have never had a single drama with it.
Just to make myself feel better, I screwed in the ARP headstuds. Now they look cool!!!
Oh well.
No pix. You all know what a block/crank/pistons short block looks like.
More later.
Oracle
I finally got going today, and built the basic short motor. All the ring end gapos were spot on so no filing needed and it all went to gether smoothly after hours of cleaning and preparation.
The engine I have chosen to build has been built using that fucken hard setting gasket cement shit fuck cunting piss!
The amount of work required just to remove and clean up the gasket faces is quite ridiculous..........
I spent over an hour cleaning off the face of the front engine cover and another hour on the oil-cooler assembly and still not finished......... Chroisst.
That hard setting shit should be banned and anyone caught using it should be castrated, hung, drawn and quartered!
I personally use RTV silicone gasket maker and have never had a single drama with it.
Just to make myself feel better, I screwed in the ARP headstuds. Now they look cool!!!
Oh well.
No pix. You all know what a block/crank/pistons short block looks like.
More later.
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Haha! Not much use in the packet Forced, I prefer them all oily and in the engie!!!!
Now, some of you like pix so i took a couple.
All nice and shiney! Wound the ARP studs in by hand just for wank factor.
The block was actually bowed end to end a couple of thou and had to be flattened. Its been surface ground, not flycut so the surface finish is very very fine.
Id mentioned that this engine had been assembled with a hard setting gasket goo and this is the oil pump being cleaned off. It took almost 30 minutes to get the little cunt clean.
I spent close to an hour on the front seal housing and 30 minutes on the rear seal housing FFS!!!
Doing the sump...... well, I had to call in re-inforcements and heavier duty gear to get this gasket off in the form of a really sharp chisel and a light hammer... good lord!!!
I use RTV silicone gasket maker with great success over the years.
Very important to ensure that both mating surfaces are completely free of ANY leftover bits of old gasket and glue!
A "Stanley" blade scraper and a couple of Gem single edge razor blades are your friends and take plenty of time and dont dig the blades into the metal faces, especially, ally.
Also, another little tip is to keep a nice flat pocket oilstone handy so you can keep your Stanley blade nice and sharp and free from burrs which damage the sealing faces.
When sharpening your blades, hold the blade lightly against the stone and work in a "figure-8 pattern with some light oil.
Dont rub the stone on the blade or youll end up with a very uneven blade and it will not be of any use.
Yer I know, blades are cheap and I sound like a tightarse (which I am for the record!!)... but a nicely ground and sharp blade will work far better on a recalcitrant gasket and do much less damage in the form of gouging of the surfaces much better than simply a brand new jobbie.
Thoroughly degrease the surfaces (I use Prepsol) and DO NOT flood the fucking area with a thick bead of the silicone shit. It will simply squeeze out when you tighten down and the waste has been known to break off over time and float around in the oil or worse squeeze out into oil galleries and the like restricting them.
Just smear the surfaces with a thin film by hand and trowell off with your fuingertips.
I know it sounds pedantic but I use a tension wrench when doing up any fasteners that matter such as the oil pump bolts and the CAM thrust plate/seal carrier, Cam wheels, flywheel bolts and so-on.
Its important that the housings of these parts are not distorted by uneven or over-tightening by hand which can lead to excessive oil pump wear and internal bypassing (dropped oil pressure at idle when hot) oil leaks and incorrect cam endfloat and leaking.
Its also surprisingly easy to strip out M6 bolts from ally housings using even 1/4" drive stuff!
If flywheel bolts are ripped up tight, this can result in the distortion of the mounting flang and flywheel runout. the end result is a shuddering clutch and snatchy friction point/takeup.
Always thoroughly clean the threads and lightly lube them for even and repeatable tensioning. I do this as a matter of course. It is time consuming tho but IMHO worth the effort.
Now, I picked this up after cleaning the front seal housing.
One pet hate of mine is using sealant around seals. I never do it and simply use some grease to ease the seal into place.
I use a fine emery mop in the Dremel and gently clean out the seal housing of any old sealant and smooth out the inevitable gouges and scratches from clumsy Neanderthal fuckheads levering seals out with big screwdrivers!
This front housing shows the results of a very clumsy attempt to prise the front cam belt pulley off with a screwdriver jammed down between the pulley and the light ally seal housing.
The pix are not clea but looking carefully, you can see a crack in the seal housing just to the right of the light flare, reflecting off the seal housing.
Looking carefully here you can see the damage done by levering the screwdriver against the soft cast ally housing. Again the pix does not show it well but look at 12 o-clock and you can see the bruising.
There are 2 ways to remove those cam pulleys if they wont slide straight off. One is to drill some holes opposite one another on the front face of the pulley and tap them to M4 or similar and using a puller, draw the pulley off or just get a big fuckoff cold chisel, position in the belt groove directly above the pulley keyway and belt the shit out of it with a lump hammer. The pulley being cast iron, will just split. The you just aim the chisel into the crack from the front face, give it one hit and the wheel will simply split in half and fall on the floor!!! Brutal, but effective if all else fails.
Thats about al I have for you today children. More as it happens.
Oracle.
Now, some of you like pix so i took a couple.
All nice and shiney! Wound the ARP studs in by hand just for wank factor.
The block was actually bowed end to end a couple of thou and had to be flattened. Its been surface ground, not flycut so the surface finish is very very fine.
Id mentioned that this engine had been assembled with a hard setting gasket goo and this is the oil pump being cleaned off. It took almost 30 minutes to get the little cunt clean.
I spent close to an hour on the front seal housing and 30 minutes on the rear seal housing FFS!!!
Doing the sump...... well, I had to call in re-inforcements and heavier duty gear to get this gasket off in the form of a really sharp chisel and a light hammer... good lord!!!
I use RTV silicone gasket maker with great success over the years.
Very important to ensure that both mating surfaces are completely free of ANY leftover bits of old gasket and glue!
A "Stanley" blade scraper and a couple of Gem single edge razor blades are your friends and take plenty of time and dont dig the blades into the metal faces, especially, ally.
Also, another little tip is to keep a nice flat pocket oilstone handy so you can keep your Stanley blade nice and sharp and free from burrs which damage the sealing faces.
When sharpening your blades, hold the blade lightly against the stone and work in a "figure-8 pattern with some light oil.
Dont rub the stone on the blade or youll end up with a very uneven blade and it will not be of any use.
Yer I know, blades are cheap and I sound like a tightarse (which I am for the record!!)... but a nicely ground and sharp blade will work far better on a recalcitrant gasket and do much less damage in the form of gouging of the surfaces much better than simply a brand new jobbie.
Thoroughly degrease the surfaces (I use Prepsol) and DO NOT flood the fucking area with a thick bead of the silicone shit. It will simply squeeze out when you tighten down and the waste has been known to break off over time and float around in the oil or worse squeeze out into oil galleries and the like restricting them.
Just smear the surfaces with a thin film by hand and trowell off with your fuingertips.
I know it sounds pedantic but I use a tension wrench when doing up any fasteners that matter such as the oil pump bolts and the CAM thrust plate/seal carrier, Cam wheels, flywheel bolts and so-on.
Its important that the housings of these parts are not distorted by uneven or over-tightening by hand which can lead to excessive oil pump wear and internal bypassing (dropped oil pressure at idle when hot) oil leaks and incorrect cam endfloat and leaking.
Its also surprisingly easy to strip out M6 bolts from ally housings using even 1/4" drive stuff!
If flywheel bolts are ripped up tight, this can result in the distortion of the mounting flang and flywheel runout. the end result is a shuddering clutch and snatchy friction point/takeup.
Always thoroughly clean the threads and lightly lube them for even and repeatable tensioning. I do this as a matter of course. It is time consuming tho but IMHO worth the effort.
Now, I picked this up after cleaning the front seal housing.
One pet hate of mine is using sealant around seals. I never do it and simply use some grease to ease the seal into place.
I use a fine emery mop in the Dremel and gently clean out the seal housing of any old sealant and smooth out the inevitable gouges and scratches from clumsy Neanderthal fuckheads levering seals out with big screwdrivers!
This front housing shows the results of a very clumsy attempt to prise the front cam belt pulley off with a screwdriver jammed down between the pulley and the light ally seal housing.
The pix are not clea but looking carefully, you can see a crack in the seal housing just to the right of the light flare, reflecting off the seal housing.
Looking carefully here you can see the damage done by levering the screwdriver against the soft cast ally housing. Again the pix does not show it well but look at 12 o-clock and you can see the bruising.
There are 2 ways to remove those cam pulleys if they wont slide straight off. One is to drill some holes opposite one another on the front face of the pulley and tap them to M4 or similar and using a puller, draw the pulley off or just get a big fuckoff cold chisel, position in the belt groove directly above the pulley keyway and belt the shit out of it with a lump hammer. The pulley being cast iron, will just split. The you just aim the chisel into the crack from the front face, give it one hit and the wheel will simply split in half and fall on the floor!!! Brutal, but effective if all else fails.
Thats about al I have for you today children. More as it happens.
Oracle.
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
More progress today.
I had stalled on the motor due to that damaged front cover so i got busy, dragged the Pooser into the shed and lifted the engine/box out. Quite a bit of oil spray from a long time leaking front crank seal.
Split the box off the engine, removed the clutch and flywheel and all the ancilliary stuff to be swapped over to the new engine. had to drop the sump off to get the front seal cover off so up she goes!
Its easier for us old farts to work on them at this height!!!! Interestingly, ALL the sump bolts were barely finger tight and in some cases not tight at all yet that sump did not leak a drop. RTV silicone FTW!
A bit of a cleanup and the removed front cover is in good order so it has a new home on the new engine now.
One little horror I discovered was a badly damaged Woodruff key which locates the lower cam pulley and the front pulley.
A long time ago, wifey complained of a strange noise coming from the engine. Investigating it revealed a loosened front pulley bolt and the pulley had fair damaged the snout of the crank.
I set to and hand filed the crank snout back to some form of order, fitted another spare pulley and assumed all was good.
However, during the time things were loose, the cam belt pulley had been slogging around on the key and fair damaged it which was allowing the whole show to move back and forth some 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation......... eeek!
Second horror I found with the new motor was the front crank seal sleeve.
Plenty of engines run the deal directly on the crank but in the poosers case, there is a machined sleeve that is also held to the crank by that pesky woodruff key.
This one was really badly scored and damaged but happily, the buggered engine sleeve was like new. Pix does not clearly show how munted it is but those grooves running around are quite deep.
Its no real biggie tho as you can quite easily fit a "Speedy Sleeve" and all will be well anyway.
You can also bring back a rooted rear seal surface on the crank as well with a big speedy sleeve. Ive used them before and they work well if fitted correctly.
So I need to source a new Woodruff key before I can lock the front of the engine up... Oh well. Might price a new cam belt pulley as well altho the keyway in that does not appear damaged at all which is strange being cast steel as opposed to the hard steel key itself.
Im also going to lighten the flywheel some more. Id had it done some time when I first added the hybrid N12/13 gearbox but not a lot of weight from around the outer circumference of the wheel was removed so ill get it done again. Im quite a fan of light flywheels and the respose they deliver!
Heres a pix of the back of the flywheel as it stands now and the pressure plate which is an F1 Racing Components stage 2 sprung centered organic item. A very nice clutch with a very short, but smooth action, almost shudder free and plenty of grip. I also use one of these in the VG30det powered Navara. Its even shorter in action but still really streetable once accustomed to the very short pedal travel.
When I originally bought my clutch from the US of A, they sent me the wrong clutch disk to begin with.
I wanted the Stage 2 organic disk and I got the stage 3 brass disk.
Ive never been much of a fan of brass button clutches, their often violent and destructive takeup and high wear on the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces. Usually a 3 or 4 puck disk of a solid centered (no cushion springs) design.
As far as Im concerned, they are suitable ONLY for full house race cars and should be driven sympathetically to get good life out of them and the transmission. Sidestepping the clutch and flat changing with a solid center 3 puck clutch will almost guarantee gearbox/diff failure in very short time.
However, this particular one is a 6 segment sprung centered (cushioned) (virtually) full face disk so I might poke it in and give it a try.
Next to the existing kevlar reinforced organic sprung disk for comparison.
Added a couple of other ancilliary bits and bobs but I cant lock the front of the motor up untill I replace thet pesky Woodsruff key.
Until next installment!
l8r
Oracle
I had stalled on the motor due to that damaged front cover so i got busy, dragged the Pooser into the shed and lifted the engine/box out. Quite a bit of oil spray from a long time leaking front crank seal.
Split the box off the engine, removed the clutch and flywheel and all the ancilliary stuff to be swapped over to the new engine. had to drop the sump off to get the front seal cover off so up she goes!
Its easier for us old farts to work on them at this height!!!! Interestingly, ALL the sump bolts were barely finger tight and in some cases not tight at all yet that sump did not leak a drop. RTV silicone FTW!
A bit of a cleanup and the removed front cover is in good order so it has a new home on the new engine now.
One little horror I discovered was a badly damaged Woodruff key which locates the lower cam pulley and the front pulley.
A long time ago, wifey complained of a strange noise coming from the engine. Investigating it revealed a loosened front pulley bolt and the pulley had fair damaged the snout of the crank.
I set to and hand filed the crank snout back to some form of order, fitted another spare pulley and assumed all was good.
However, during the time things were loose, the cam belt pulley had been slogging around on the key and fair damaged it which was allowing the whole show to move back and forth some 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation......... eeek!
Second horror I found with the new motor was the front crank seal sleeve.
Plenty of engines run the deal directly on the crank but in the poosers case, there is a machined sleeve that is also held to the crank by that pesky woodruff key.
This one was really badly scored and damaged but happily, the buggered engine sleeve was like new. Pix does not clearly show how munted it is but those grooves running around are quite deep.
Its no real biggie tho as you can quite easily fit a "Speedy Sleeve" and all will be well anyway.
You can also bring back a rooted rear seal surface on the crank as well with a big speedy sleeve. Ive used them before and they work well if fitted correctly.
So I need to source a new Woodruff key before I can lock the front of the engine up... Oh well. Might price a new cam belt pulley as well altho the keyway in that does not appear damaged at all which is strange being cast steel as opposed to the hard steel key itself.
Im also going to lighten the flywheel some more. Id had it done some time when I first added the hybrid N12/13 gearbox but not a lot of weight from around the outer circumference of the wheel was removed so ill get it done again. Im quite a fan of light flywheels and the respose they deliver!
Heres a pix of the back of the flywheel as it stands now and the pressure plate which is an F1 Racing Components stage 2 sprung centered organic item. A very nice clutch with a very short, but smooth action, almost shudder free and plenty of grip. I also use one of these in the VG30det powered Navara. Its even shorter in action but still really streetable once accustomed to the very short pedal travel.
When I originally bought my clutch from the US of A, they sent me the wrong clutch disk to begin with.
I wanted the Stage 2 organic disk and I got the stage 3 brass disk.
Ive never been much of a fan of brass button clutches, their often violent and destructive takeup and high wear on the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces. Usually a 3 or 4 puck disk of a solid centered (no cushion springs) design.
As far as Im concerned, they are suitable ONLY for full house race cars and should be driven sympathetically to get good life out of them and the transmission. Sidestepping the clutch and flat changing with a solid center 3 puck clutch will almost guarantee gearbox/diff failure in very short time.
However, this particular one is a 6 segment sprung centered (cushioned) (virtually) full face disk so I might poke it in and give it a try.
Next to the existing kevlar reinforced organic sprung disk for comparison.
Added a couple of other ancilliary bits and bobs but I cant lock the front of the motor up untill I replace thet pesky Woodsruff key.
Until next installment!
l8r
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Today, sump fitted and front of motor completed.
Head is on and locked down and the tubo manifld back on.
Starting to look like and engine now:
Just finishing off matchporting another manifold runner set. Just a little bit of final cleaning up to do and its completed.
Just use a set of gaskets as a template. carefully position the gasket. I use some M8 nuts and bolts to secure the gasket in final position prior to marking, and scribe around the inside of the gasket.
The head has already been expertly ported by a hand unknown who has gone to great lengths to leave the primary inlet diameter/volumes close to stock.
Only the slightest trimming of the gaskets is required to get them right out of the gasflow.
They got it pretty right as this head/cam combo returned 150Kw ATW at a modest 16psi boost at only 6200rpm so its a proven combo.
Grossly enlarged ports slow down gas velocity and dampen off throttle response. You cant afford to loose any more response when your already loosing it due to the much bigger cam than stock.
A lot of porting beginners just think "bigger is better" and rarely is this the case.
I always advise those getting into porting to remove as LITTE metal as possible. DO NOT change the primary shape and diameters of the ports to keep gas velocity high as possible and concentrate on removing casting dags and smoothing any sharp corners. If the port feels "nice" to the fingers then there is a reasonable chance that the airflow will like it too!
I have a couple of sets of injectors to go in (thanks Damo) The top set (yellow) are Bosch 036 and the bottom (blue) set are bosch 024's. they are equivalent electrically and a flowrate of 440cc @100% duty.
At 85% duty, which is the most you should EVER run an injector at, they flow at 375cc.
This flowrate should, according to calculations, be fine for 150 CRANKSHAFT killerwasps.
Should be enough fuel for the modest boost pressures (1 bar) I plan to run at.
I suspect that the different colur and designation are just to identify between different OEM fittments.
A bit of a niuscance is that i have to go buy a new set of injector plugs as the old school 036's use an entirely different plug to the garden variety injector plug. Bah!
Lastly just a few ancilliary bits and bobs to swap over such as the rocker gear, dissie/thermostat housing and the correct AN fitting to screw into the block for the turbo oil feed. Wne I get the flywheel/clutch back from the machinists later in the week then its back together with the gearbox and in she goes.
Im hoping to give it a buzz next weekend if all goes well.
More later
Oracle
Head is on and locked down and the tubo manifld back on.
Starting to look like and engine now:
Just finishing off matchporting another manifold runner set. Just a little bit of final cleaning up to do and its completed.
Just use a set of gaskets as a template. carefully position the gasket. I use some M8 nuts and bolts to secure the gasket in final position prior to marking, and scribe around the inside of the gasket.
The head has already been expertly ported by a hand unknown who has gone to great lengths to leave the primary inlet diameter/volumes close to stock.
Only the slightest trimming of the gaskets is required to get them right out of the gasflow.
They got it pretty right as this head/cam combo returned 150Kw ATW at a modest 16psi boost at only 6200rpm so its a proven combo.
Grossly enlarged ports slow down gas velocity and dampen off throttle response. You cant afford to loose any more response when your already loosing it due to the much bigger cam than stock.
A lot of porting beginners just think "bigger is better" and rarely is this the case.
I always advise those getting into porting to remove as LITTE metal as possible. DO NOT change the primary shape and diameters of the ports to keep gas velocity high as possible and concentrate on removing casting dags and smoothing any sharp corners. If the port feels "nice" to the fingers then there is a reasonable chance that the airflow will like it too!
I have a couple of sets of injectors to go in (thanks Damo) The top set (yellow) are Bosch 036 and the bottom (blue) set are bosch 024's. they are equivalent electrically and a flowrate of 440cc @100% duty.
At 85% duty, which is the most you should EVER run an injector at, they flow at 375cc.
This flowrate should, according to calculations, be fine for 150 CRANKSHAFT killerwasps.
Should be enough fuel for the modest boost pressures (1 bar) I plan to run at.
I suspect that the different colur and designation are just to identify between different OEM fittments.
A bit of a niuscance is that i have to go buy a new set of injector plugs as the old school 036's use an entirely different plug to the garden variety injector plug. Bah!
Lastly just a few ancilliary bits and bobs to swap over such as the rocker gear, dissie/thermostat housing and the correct AN fitting to screw into the block for the turbo oil feed. Wne I get the flywheel/clutch back from the machinists later in the week then its back together with the gearbox and in she goes.
Im hoping to give it a buzz next weekend if all goes well.
More later
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
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LOL on the xmas decoration!
Umm, the turbo sits about where they all sit I think. A fair bit lower tho. Plenty of room between it and the stock radiator.
Prolly the angle the pix was taken at i reckon, Loking at that pix again it does look a long way out tho...
Oracle
Umm, the turbo sits about where they all sit I think. A fair bit lower tho. Plenty of room between it and the stock radiator.
Prolly the angle the pix was taken at i reckon, Loking at that pix again it does look a long way out tho...
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Already had it all on and running, shown a couple of pages back. As you can see, even with the bigger T25g turbo, there is miles of room between the turbo and the radiator. Enough room for a 28 in there is I could ever be bothered.Callumgw wrote:the exhaust housing is rotated about 90 off axis of the stock install which might add a bit, I'm guessing you trial fit it right?
C
Just the angle the pix is taken at makes it look like it hangs forwards a long way.
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
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LOL something like that!
Ok, machine shop called me. My fly and clutch has been machined and balanced.
All nice and shiney!
But... whats happened to this:::::?
Ooh ohh....ohhhh.... but wait... they must have made a mistake!!! The flywheel was already lightened...... Hahahah!
Its about as light as can be made now before safety becomes an issue. Anyway grub much more out the back and it will only be useful as a dinner plate or an ashtray!!!! Its quite light.
Set to and fitted up the new injectors to the ported runners and onto the engine they go:
Inlet runners attached...getting closer!
I find it a pain to snake that engine loom behind the engine so I poke it thru and no need to buggerise around later on.
I removed my funky waterpump inlet pipe but it was fairly rusted and after ...errr "adjusting" it several times with the gasaxe, the hosetail split.
So I modified the existing one that came from this block.
The nut welded onto the elbow is there to give you something to drift against to ensure the pipe is fully seated.
Stag hard setting pipe sealant is the goo of choice for this kind of thing.
Last job is to clean and refit the EGI plenum onto the now matchported runnersm add the alternator and its time for the engine to say goodbye to the engine stand and hello to its flywheel, clutch, gearbox, starter and engine mounts.
Add 2 new driveshaft seals and ... fuckit, Ive had enough for this arvo.
Engine goes back in tomorrow.
Cheers
Oracle
Ok, machine shop called me. My fly and clutch has been machined and balanced.
All nice and shiney!
But... whats happened to this:::::?
Ooh ohh....ohhhh.... but wait... they must have made a mistake!!! The flywheel was already lightened...... Hahahah!
Its about as light as can be made now before safety becomes an issue. Anyway grub much more out the back and it will only be useful as a dinner plate or an ashtray!!!! Its quite light.
Set to and fitted up the new injectors to the ported runners and onto the engine they go:
Inlet runners attached...getting closer!
I find it a pain to snake that engine loom behind the engine so I poke it thru and no need to buggerise around later on.
I removed my funky waterpump inlet pipe but it was fairly rusted and after ...errr "adjusting" it several times with the gasaxe, the hosetail split.
So I modified the existing one that came from this block.
The nut welded onto the elbow is there to give you something to drift against to ensure the pipe is fully seated.
Stag hard setting pipe sealant is the goo of choice for this kind of thing.
Last job is to clean and refit the EGI plenum onto the now matchported runnersm add the alternator and its time for the engine to say goodbye to the engine stand and hello to its flywheel, clutch, gearbox, starter and engine mounts.
Add 2 new driveshaft seals and ... fuckit, Ive had enough for this arvo.
Engine goes back in tomorrow.
Cheers
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.