wow 80 thou, cant wait to see some numbers from a dyno run.
Pretty interesting inlet manifold, looks very squarish
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Timmzy's ET
sorry my post kinda came out wrong the wolfs i have been around have been unreliable as in the way of mistiming and 2 failing 1 straight out of the box(plug in type) sent teh plug in bakc to wolf they sent it back saying it was fine but when we plugged it again it still wouldt fire lol and i haev seen a few microtech do similar things but they werent new only the old series but like was said before it depends on what ur tuner is good with I dont trust anyone at all in tassie to tune mine so i chose microtech so i could safely tune my own till i get it to melbourne 
So ur building this car for track use i take it if ya need a set of wet and dry's which track and whats ur aim? time wise i mean
So ur building this car for track use i take it if ya need a set of wet and dry's
which track and whats ur aim? time wise i mean -
Ben Hewitson
- Posts: 1136
- Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:19 am
- Location: Adelaide, SA.
- Contact:
Thanks for Info Timmy. I've been to a few wolf seminars and i just think that feature wise its a better product. I also love the fact you can flip to the internal memory on the fly..
I've got to make a descision to continue with my E17 and i'll need a new computer for that as they dont run well on the stock ecu, or i get a CA16DET made up.. yep only 1.6L.. but with CA18DET interals... should be engineer friendly if i dont tell them its 1.8..... for that i'm thinking about re-writing the CA18DET Ecu and running that CAZ racing software to tune it. plus mattybaby in adelaide has a eprom programmer and has had lots of success with the ca ecu... try 187kw's at the front wheels in his N13 exa...
so wolf sounds good for me.. unless boosted et can get me a cheap microtech..
cheers for help guys, good luck with that little white ET.. looks awesome.
I've got to make a descision to continue with my E17 and i'll need a new computer for that as they dont run well on the stock ecu, or i get a CA16DET made up.. yep only 1.6L.. but with CA18DET interals... should be engineer friendly if i dont tell them its 1.8..... for that i'm thinking about re-writing the CA18DET Ecu and running that CAZ racing software to tune it. plus mattybaby in adelaide has a eprom programmer and has had lots of success with the ca ecu... try 187kw's at the front wheels in his N13 exa...
so wolf sounds good for me.. unless boosted et can get me a cheap microtech..
cheers for help guys, good luck with that little white ET.. looks awesome.
pm me brotherBen Hewitson wrote:Thanks for Info Timmy. I've been to a few wolf seminars and i just think that feature wise its a better product. I also love the fact you can flip to the internal memory on the fly..
I've got to make a descision to continue with my E17 and i'll need a new computer for that as they dont run well on the stock ecu, or i get a CA16DET made up.. yep only 1.6L.. but with CA18DET interals... should be engineer friendly if i dont tell them its 1.8..... for that i'm thinking about re-writing the CA18DET Ecu and running that CAZ racing software to tune it. plus mattybaby in adelaide has a eprom programmer and has had lots of success with the ca ecu... try 187kw's at the front wheels in his N13 exa...
so wolf sounds good for me.. unless boosted et can get me a cheap microtech..
cheers for help guys, good luck with that little white ET.. looks awesome.
Well,
Just a bit of an update.
I have been dealing with turbo issues, and have JUST NOW found out that I have not been running an oil restrictor in the top of my ball bearing skyline turbo. So this has caused me to think about purchasing a restrictor and trying it. It may be cheaper to do this rather than shell out $1200 for re-build.
Even if I did get a re-build the restrictor still would have to be purchased.
It made sense to me because the car was blowing blue smoke at idle, and once the turbo/manifolds were pulled off, it was clear the oil was only coming from turbo. It was so bad that it was dripping from the gasket between turbo and dump pipe! So its become obvious to me that the oil was simply flooding the turbo with oil to the point of dropping it out the exhaust. The question is have I done any damage to the turbo seals pumping this much oil through them? We will see. The turbo seems to be in great mechanical shape apart from that, it has no sideways movement, and a tiny bit of upwards movement, hardly noticable.
While I was doing this, I have also had the manifolds coated in that HPC ceramic coating rated to 2500 degree's C. They look great and have replaced the crappy half burnt off other shite coating on them.
I also purchased a steering wheel spacer, that moves the wheel out about 50mm so you don't snap the stalks off when trying to correct, etc. And also got myself a set of Koni Red shocks for the rear, they should be interesting to use.
Ill get some pics up in the next few days.
Does anyone know where to buy these Oil Restrictors from?
Thanks
Darren.
Just a bit of an update.
I have been dealing with turbo issues, and have JUST NOW found out that I have not been running an oil restrictor in the top of my ball bearing skyline turbo. So this has caused me to think about purchasing a restrictor and trying it. It may be cheaper to do this rather than shell out $1200 for re-build.
Even if I did get a re-build the restrictor still would have to be purchased.
It made sense to me because the car was blowing blue smoke at idle, and once the turbo/manifolds were pulled off, it was clear the oil was only coming from turbo. It was so bad that it was dripping from the gasket between turbo and dump pipe! So its become obvious to me that the oil was simply flooding the turbo with oil to the point of dropping it out the exhaust. The question is have I done any damage to the turbo seals pumping this much oil through them? We will see. The turbo seems to be in great mechanical shape apart from that, it has no sideways movement, and a tiny bit of upwards movement, hardly noticable.
While I was doing this, I have also had the manifolds coated in that HPC ceramic coating rated to 2500 degree's C. They look great and have replaced the crappy half burnt off other shite coating on them.
I also purchased a steering wheel spacer, that moves the wheel out about 50mm so you don't snap the stalks off when trying to correct, etc. And also got myself a set of Koni Red shocks for the rear, they should be interesting to use.
Ill get some pics up in the next few days.
Does anyone know where to buy these Oil Restrictors from?
Thanks
Darren.
Hi,
Well I couldn't be phucked finding a restrictor so I manufactured one. What is shown is a -4 fitting that was in-between my flexible oil delivery line and my turbo oil adapter fitting.
We place this fitting into the lathe and then bored out the center. Setup an interference fit with a correctly sized aluminum 'pill'. Then pressed the 'pill' into the fitting. We then machined the fitting, as can be seen. I then centered the fitting and drilled the 1mm hole.
AND WELLA! Another job done.
Re-assembly has begun and should see some fire in beast this long weekend.
Darren.
Well I couldn't be phucked finding a restrictor so I manufactured one. What is shown is a -4 fitting that was in-between my flexible oil delivery line and my turbo oil adapter fitting.
We place this fitting into the lathe and then bored out the center. Setup an interference fit with a correctly sized aluminum 'pill'. Then pressed the 'pill' into the fitting. We then machined the fitting, as can be seen. I then centered the fitting and drilled the 1mm hole.
AND WELLA! Another job done.
Re-assembly has begun and should see some fire in beast this long weekend.
Darren.
A while back (2yrs) someone in Qld performed a TM/TN Magna conversion. I know this sounds silly, but I managed to aquire some free rotors and calipers from a Magna at the time.
I can see why they chose this setup.
- Caliper mounting bolts are within 1mm of each other compared to ET hub.
- Caliper has the same radial angle as standard wheels.
- With 12mm thick pads, caliper fits under standard wheels with 1.5mm clearance to rear face of rim and 3mm clearance radially to the outside of caliper. This basically means that the standard wheels will fit over the magna brakes.
- The rotors are HUGE in comparison. A quick calculation resulted in 40% increase in swept area over the standard setup. I will comfirm this.
- Vented rotors instead of solid.
- Bigger piston diameter meaning more pedal travel with better mechanical advantage - Using standard master cylinder.
- Fitting these brakes onto the front of driveshaft flange pushes wheels out 9mm per side. Therefore creating a wider track. The only other alternative here was to manufacture some 'hats' for the rotors to install them behind the driveshaft flange. I probably would have done this if I couldn't get the standard wheels over brakes.
Bad Points:
- Possibly having to machine new pads down to 12mm thickness, not sure how thick standard pads are. The ONLY reason this has to be done is for rear face wheel clearance of the standard wheels.
- Getting custom braided brake hoses manufactured, around $150 I think.
- Dicking around with wheel bearing grease and old, shit parts.
- Hopefully the seatbelt bruises incurred.
Keep in mind the parts cost me nothing, but I don't reckon they would be expensive from the wreckers! Caliper kits from repco were $18 each!
I am currently performing this mod on my car while the turbo is getting fixed. Myself and a friend have fitted everything up on the bench from drive shaft - hub - driveflange - calipert - standard wheel and wheel nuts. Everything clears, so now we will start re-assemlby and re-build of those calipers. Hopefully can have it done in 3-4 weeks. I am taking lots of photo's etc and will setup a bit of an instructional doco.
The standard brakes have let me down on the street (when I was young and silly) and on the track with Bendix Ultimates, brake ducting, and DOT4 fluid. They have scared me too many times and I have made a promise to my old man not to race the car again until I put these brakes on it. He has personally seen them on fire a few times.
It may mean that I miss out on running the car on some club days in Decemeber like I had planned, but shit happens.
Darren.
I can see why they chose this setup.
- Caliper mounting bolts are within 1mm of each other compared to ET hub.
- Caliper has the same radial angle as standard wheels.
- With 12mm thick pads, caliper fits under standard wheels with 1.5mm clearance to rear face of rim and 3mm clearance radially to the outside of caliper. This basically means that the standard wheels will fit over the magna brakes.
- The rotors are HUGE in comparison. A quick calculation resulted in 40% increase in swept area over the standard setup. I will comfirm this.
- Vented rotors instead of solid.
- Bigger piston diameter meaning more pedal travel with better mechanical advantage - Using standard master cylinder.
- Fitting these brakes onto the front of driveshaft flange pushes wheels out 9mm per side. Therefore creating a wider track. The only other alternative here was to manufacture some 'hats' for the rotors to install them behind the driveshaft flange. I probably would have done this if I couldn't get the standard wheels over brakes.
Bad Points:
- Possibly having to machine new pads down to 12mm thickness, not sure how thick standard pads are. The ONLY reason this has to be done is for rear face wheel clearance of the standard wheels.
- Getting custom braided brake hoses manufactured, around $150 I think.
- Dicking around with wheel bearing grease and old, shit parts.
- Hopefully the seatbelt bruises incurred.
Keep in mind the parts cost me nothing, but I don't reckon they would be expensive from the wreckers! Caliper kits from repco were $18 each!
I am currently performing this mod on my car while the turbo is getting fixed. Myself and a friend have fitted everything up on the bench from drive shaft - hub - driveflange - calipert - standard wheel and wheel nuts. Everything clears, so now we will start re-assemlby and re-build of those calipers. Hopefully can have it done in 3-4 weeks. I am taking lots of photo's etc and will setup a bit of an instructional doco.
The standard brakes have let me down on the street (when I was young and silly) and on the track with Bendix Ultimates, brake ducting, and DOT4 fluid. They have scared me too many times and I have made a promise to my old man not to race the car again until I put these brakes on it. He has personally seen them on fire a few times.
It may mean that I miss out on running the car on some club days in Decemeber like I had planned, but shit happens.
Darren.
Turbo, even with the correct restrictor is still blowing smoke, so Ill pull it off and get it re-built. My little test was unsucessful.
So now I know what the problem is I can move onto the next project which is the brakes look above for that ^^^^^^.
I am taking pics of the brake upgrade process, but its not complete yet.
Darren.
So now I know what the problem is I can move onto the next project which is the brakes look above for that ^^^^^^.
I am taking pics of the brake upgrade process, but its not complete yet.
Darren.
-
Ash
- Administrator
- Posts: 3246
- Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 7:17 am
- Location: Wangaratta, Victoria, Australia
i'm looking foward to seeing your magna brake conversion. should be interesting to see how well they work on an n12.Timmzy wrote:Turbo, even with the correct restrictor is still blowing smoke, so Ill pull it off and get it re-built. My little test was unsucessful.
So now I know what the problem is I can move onto the next project which is the brakes look above for that ^^^^^^.
I am taking pics of the brake upgrade process, but its not complete yet.
Darren.
-
The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
Bugger about the turbo dude..... 
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
=====================
digging up threads, just wonderings guys, i'm about do a turbo change, the minute it arrives i'll start. But what about these oil restrictors? i'm usuing the stock oil feed line atm. I dont know what will have to be changed til i get the turbo in my hands. if i need a new line where can i get myslef a restrictor? is it a specialized thing or can it be got from somewhere like enzed?
cheers fella's
cheers fella's
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tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Depends on the turbo M8
If its a bush bearing turbo you dont restrict it.
I believe that the genuine Garrett aftermarket BB cores already have the restrictor in place (any turbo gurus out there confirm this for me?) but the Nissan spec ones evidently dont and the drama of oil blowby can occurr in Timmzies case if the cores see full oil pressure.
Im rather surprised that his remained oily tho after the restriction was fitted.
The function of the oil in a bush bearing turbo suspends the shaft in the bush and then the bush in the turbo core and the bush itself is largely an oil control device, much the same as slipper bearings on crankshafts/camshafts/conrods blah.
Ball bearings only require oil to lubricate and remove heat.
L8tr
E
If its a bush bearing turbo you dont restrict it.
I believe that the genuine Garrett aftermarket BB cores already have the restrictor in place (any turbo gurus out there confirm this for me?) but the Nissan spec ones evidently dont and the drama of oil blowby can occurr in Timmzies case if the cores see full oil pressure.
Im rather surprised that his remained oily tho after the restriction was fitted.
The function of the oil in a bush bearing turbo suspends the shaft in the bush and then the bush in the turbo core and the bush itself is largely an oil control device, much the same as slipper bearings on crankshafts/camshafts/conrods blah.
Ball bearings only require oil to lubricate and remove heat.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.