s-cargo engine troubles.

Post by **tassuperkart** » Fri Nov 29, 2013 7:20 pm

I have a couple of sets of ARP bolts/nuts/washers left over from a group b uy a while back if your interested.

Oracle

Denied · Post by **Denied** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:08 pm

just so I don't tear the threads out of the block, verify my logic... I should torque the studs up to the normal values given in the workshop manual and use loctite stud locker when installing them. Then torque down the nuts to the same value as the workshop manual.

edit: hmmm, actually now that I think about it, I figure I should just snug up the studs and use the loctite and then just torque the nuts?

Denied · Post by **Denied** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 6:36 pm

"Do the head studs only go in hand tight?
The studs should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. An undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs (or bolts) are re-torqued after the engine has been run."

http://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

Post by **tassuperkart** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 9:06 pm

No Loctite not necessary.
Nuts get done up same as stock. I questioned this as the nut thread is finer than the usual block thread but Fabre/Midel insisted that the torque should be the same as stock. This is backed up on the ARP website so... yer.

So I went to the barest minimum torque.

Oracle

Damo · Post by **Damo** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 4:38 am

How do they justify the same torque with different pitch? Even the fact that you have less than 1/2 the contact friction surface between the stud and nut thread (compared to the OEM bolt and block thread) would change the torque loading! I can even remember hearing ramblings saying that you can't use high lubricating oils like LM90 assembly lube on headbolts or under washers because it messes with applied torque.
If the above is accurate, it must be to save the bolts from deforming from over tension rather than the head from clamping funny.

Damo

Post by **tassuperkart** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 6:06 am

I imagine that the material they make the studs from is most likely more elastic.
Dunno M8, it concerned me but ARP dont seem concerned at all.

Oracle

Denied · Post by **Denied** » Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:24 pm

IT'S ALIVE! turned over after the 2nd turn of the key...

I did discover one thing while I was putting it back together. The new ARP stud that is located in front of cylinder 3... it's sitting proud and preventing access, so I couldn't get a spark plug socket into the hole. I am sure I double checked to see it was seated down correctly so i'm a bit unsure of why it's sitting up.

I also purchased Rubix's spare E15ET block, so I'll start putting together a rebuild thread for that.