http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300715420633 ... 1423.l2649
just wondering if these are worth thinking about
I got a hole in the stock one being the only reason for looking at it
only a $50 fix but for the extra $40 I can get this
thoughts anyone
zoomzoom
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radiator replacement
radiator replacement
tits'n' wheels gotta love'em
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tassuperkart
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The stock radiator is far and away the best option. Its a big, 3 core brass radiator with large capacity end tanks and would be large enough to comfortably handle the cooling duties on a performance V8!
When the ET was developed, It must have been seen that the stock sized atmo radiator might struggle when the going got really hot and the big triple cored crossflow radiator was specced!
Major downside to the stock rad is no other car uses the same size triple core or end tanks and so new cores are both rare and very expensive as many dudes have found out when having their stock rads recored!!!
I have been quoted in excess of $800!!!!!
It would be easily cheaper to have PWR fabricate a fancy totally custom race radiator!!
newhoo, enough rambling....Your reducing radiator capacity by a significacnt margin. Thats the only downside.
Providing you take some simple steps, at that price, you should be well and truly laughing.
Depending where you fit a smaller radiator, its going to leave some fairly large spaces either side of the radiator and the radiator support panels.
The ram air will take the path of least resistance everytime and this will significantly reduce the radiators efficiency. This will mostly be an issue in an everyday driver in traffic where any airflow available will be disturbed and already hot. fan constantly on and overheating in hard and hot going is the result.
Strip cars wont matter so dont take too much notice of some of the competition/single run only style of installations.
You should fabricate some thin ally sheet fences or baffles to fill those gaps.
Reason is to prevent any ram air movement from taking the easy path around the sides of the radiator. Blocking those open spaces forces more air thru a smaller radiator area.
Lastly, fit a decent sized thermo fan. Biggest you can easily fit. Consider seeing if you can adapt the stock Honda fan and shroud assembly but that will have to be on the motor side drawing thru so might be a hassle with clearance.
If the ECU is stock, youll need to have a threaded bung welded into the lower radiator tank for you stock fan thermal switch or and aftermarket one.
If you have an aftermarket ECU (I cant remember) just use the FAN-ON function and set the on temp to 90 degrees C. and wire to a fused fan relay.
DO NOT power the fan by the ECU alone (without a relay) as a smoking stinking burnt out ECU is what will result first time the fan pulls in!!!
A couple of simple steps and youll be fine!
L8r
E
When the ET was developed, It must have been seen that the stock sized atmo radiator might struggle when the going got really hot and the big triple cored crossflow radiator was specced!
Major downside to the stock rad is no other car uses the same size triple core or end tanks and so new cores are both rare and very expensive as many dudes have found out when having their stock rads recored!!!
I have been quoted in excess of $800!!!!!
It would be easily cheaper to have PWR fabricate a fancy totally custom race radiator!!
newhoo, enough rambling....Your reducing radiator capacity by a significacnt margin. Thats the only downside.
Providing you take some simple steps, at that price, you should be well and truly laughing.
Depending where you fit a smaller radiator, its going to leave some fairly large spaces either side of the radiator and the radiator support panels.
The ram air will take the path of least resistance everytime and this will significantly reduce the radiators efficiency. This will mostly be an issue in an everyday driver in traffic where any airflow available will be disturbed and already hot. fan constantly on and overheating in hard and hot going is the result.
Strip cars wont matter so dont take too much notice of some of the competition/single run only style of installations.
You should fabricate some thin ally sheet fences or baffles to fill those gaps.
Reason is to prevent any ram air movement from taking the easy path around the sides of the radiator. Blocking those open spaces forces more air thru a smaller radiator area.
Lastly, fit a decent sized thermo fan. Biggest you can easily fit. Consider seeing if you can adapt the stock Honda fan and shroud assembly but that will have to be on the motor side drawing thru so might be a hassle with clearance.
If the ECU is stock, youll need to have a threaded bung welded into the lower radiator tank for you stock fan thermal switch or and aftermarket one.
If you have an aftermarket ECU (I cant remember) just use the FAN-ON function and set the on temp to 90 degrees C. and wire to a fused fan relay.
DO NOT power the fan by the ECU alone (without a relay) as a smoking stinking burnt out ECU is what will result first time the fan pulls in!!!
A couple of simple steps and youll be fine!
L8r
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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poeticjustice88
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- Location: gold coast, queensland
might have a low temp thermostat? got one in my rb26, sits between 64-68deg most of the time.poeticjustice88 wrote:so 90 degrees C is the optimum operating temp for these bad boys ?
WOW, i struggle to push her past 70
Michael
I understand the need for conformity. Without a concise set of rules to follow we would probably all have to resort to common sense.
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poeticjustice88
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tassuperkart
- Administrator
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- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
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tassuperkart
- Administrator
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Re: radiator replacement
Why dont you just take the radiator you have to a radiator repairer and ask them to repair ithe holes??zoomzoom wrote: I got a hole in the stock one .....................
ANY repairer worth his salt can fix holes in radiator cores.
L8r
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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tassuperkart
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- Location: Southern Tasmania
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Yes, thats the usual line. "Just recore it M8"....pff As i said before, you can expect anything between 600 and 800 for a recore when a simple cut and solder of the damaged tubes is all thats needed with a pressure test for 75 bucks.
Take it somewhere else M8. The guy is a bozo.
oracle
Take it somewhere else M8. The guy is a bozo.
oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.