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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Pfftt, dont get cocky behind that keyboard seargeant, your coming with me!
With you, I have a partner in crime!

H5
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Damo
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Post by Damo »

tassuperkart wrote:Injector wiring is ghetto Damo.
Its not using 2 of its injector drivers.
Lord only knows how its been wired. If the 2 banks of injecotrs are wired parrallel then the ECU will be seeing barely an ohm resistance...... not wonderful. Overheated drivers anybody???

Check out the pix of the plugs Mike posted.

L8r
E
Roger roger, I must have missed the details of that post. I wonder if 'they' have done something funky to temp fix a busted driver in the past! That would be a quick test.
Would the Mtech be able to force enough voltage to the squirters to fire both IF wired in series? I assume that would cause some massive problems in dead time with only 6-7vdc opening the injectors!
A couple of other things which have been dodged with the wiring are that the fuel pump runs full time with ignition on, (not triggered from the MT), and the engine seems to play funny buggers only when the engine fan is on (manually switched) when at operating temp.
As has been said multiple times now, the wiring has to come apart.

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Errrrk!
Id also suggest utillising the AUX op to pull the fan relay on at around 88 to 90 degrees.
Fans on flickswitches are just asking for overheating troubles sooner or later.

The fuel pump issue is often a resut of the dudes wiring up the relay with the other side of the pullin coil to ground, like a horn or driving light relay.

Even tho the Microtech pulls low to ground, it seems the Microtech does not like seeing ground on the other side of the relay and shorts and blows a "crowbar protection" diode and no fuel pump is the result.
Ive seen a lot of ECU's with this damage.

Its a mistake MANY new playes make with Microtechs when they dont consult the wiring diagramme closely.

Im very suspicious of that ECU.

L8r
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

engine running, pull the vacuum line off of the microtech that comes from the throttle body, the engine dies in revs accordingly, but the microtech reads 20"HG for another 5 secs. car does this while driving, so anytime i change where my foot is on the accelerator, the ecu ultimately takes 5 secs to correct the fueling.

OH YEAH!!!! can anyone say fucked MAP sensor !!!

Michael
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

http://www.rs-autosport.net/catalog/pro ... e62830d6c2

For $325 Brand new, are the megasquirt reliable and suitable ?

This is V3.57 with dual ignition outs

im running out of options and need a new ecu bad. really bad

Michael
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

alright so damo came around last night and tore apart the wiring for my microtech. That man is a beast.

We ripped out all the old loom and replaced with shiny new one.

now the problem that we are having, is injectors. The old loom was only running two of the four injector drivers, to run four injectors. Now that we have the new loom in, we are running 4 injector drivers, one for each injector. But there is something wrong. it runs as though it has a huge miss.

I am confident that the ignition leads are in the right fireing order, i follwed this guide http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php ... ring+order

if it is wrong please tell me...

If not, could there be a possibility that the injector drivers in the microtech unit itself are blown out, and for that reason be why the previous owner only ran two of them ?

Keeping in mind i only just got microtech back FROM microtech when i sent it in to get it repaired. according to the guys there, they do a test bench run and make sure everything is ok with it. they didnt say anything else was wrong with the unit.

Any ideas at all please let me know, Damo and I are a little stuck, and this is my daily driver, so i need it back on the road asap

Michael
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

An LED and a resistor is your friend.
Make a "noid" test light and test the outputs.
Set the ECU into test mode and check it out.

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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

will look into making a noid, with the test mode. i have run it, and the rpm gauge i have sits on 3600 rpm. the manual says it should only sit on 1800.

It used to sit on 3600 rpm with the old loom, Damo and i thought that would be because it was technically using 2 injector drivers. but it is still doing it, any thoughts ?

Michael
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Dont know. means nothing anyway.
You could just unplug all the injectors and plug in one at a time to see if they are all running. I had to do this to trace a broken wire in my new loom right up at the plug.

Remember to disable the fuel pump or youll flood the motor and hydraulic it.

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Post by poeticjustice88 »

ok just checked with an led, only 1 and 2 are firing, 3 and 4 are not at all. 1 and 2 seem to be firing correctly, with the right pulse, but nothing at all from 3 and 4.

there was no change either when i changed from sequential to muti.

Michael
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Post by tassuperkart »

Then that suggests the dude had already popped the injector outputs and Microtech DIDNT test it at all

Just run them back in a "wasted" triggering but wire the injecotrs in series NOT parrallel.
I cannot remeber the correct wiring sequence tho for a 4 cylinder.
in the meantime, just wire them back in SERIES however and batch fire it. (all at once) this will run fine but might make it a little grubby down low until you tune it out.
Microtechs trigger the injectros in bank fire anyway and are not truly sequential!!! Lying pricks!
This will ensure each injector recieves the same current and not overload the injector outputs.

oracle
Last edited by tassuperkart on Sat Jul 28, 2012 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 »

i was thinking that they may not have tested the unit as Damo also struggled to get the fuel pump to prime, and originally the fuel pump was not controlled by the microtech. so its obvious that problem is still there, and they wired it the way they did for a reason.

Unfortunately Tass, i am very retarded when it comes to electronics, so i, unfortunately, do not understand how to wire them in wasted spark setup aswell as the series not parallel.

I know what wasted spark is, but i have no idea how to wire it that way.

If it is at all possible, could you please re-ittirate on how to do the wiring, as if you are talking to a child :)

Michael
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Errrmmm........ wire 2 injectors in a kind of loop.

So, +12v to (any) injector pin, then other pin to next injector pin, then the last injector pin to ECU outpiut...
2 x groups of 2 injectors.
Damo should be able to tell you which cylinders to wire together for semi sequential.. I simply cannot remember. I cant remember if its the same as ignition triggering or diffewrent.
You could try the Microtech forums.
If not just set your ECU to BATCH and fire them all together. it wont matter much at all.

Here:

Image

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Post by Damo »

There is something very funky going on with that ECU! There is no possible way that it has been tested 100% o.k. It seems like it has blown a negative track off the internal PCB or that there is an internal bridge between negative and something else, or the wires in the loom are wrong. The negative switch is not happening for the fuel pump relay, #3 and #4 injectors.
I suggest to Michael to wire it up the same way it was running previously as it didn't 'seem' to have a problem with the extra low impedance it was copping from 2 injectors. Also, I'm not too sure it would run happily at all with injectors in series, they would be only getting 6v which would cause all manner of problems with latency.
I would have them take it back, paying for postage and doing the repairs for $0 for wasting your time Michael, and while they are at it, get them to check what engine its set up for.


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Post by tassuperkart »

Nah Damo, 2 groups of 2. Not all in series.
Your asking the outputs to do a big job driving into 1.2 ohms and dissapating a lot of heat.

The relay control being blown is a common ocurrence that glaring evidence that the vast majority of dudes who install these things DO NOT follow simple wiring diagrammes.
They usually get quite a fright when they get a quote to repoair the relay driver hence almost always wire the fuel pump relay always on which is dangerous and IIRC illegal.

Im with you on this but im willing to bet Microetech will just say it was working fine when it left the shop and the installer must have connected it incorrectly.

Mah!

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