oils ain't oils

BennyET · Post by **BennyET** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:23 am

have been under the impression a mineral oil should be used for running in...

paul w · Post by **paul w** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 12:49 pm

My (basic) understanding is that the better quality oils have had more testing, and have more additives included, the latter helping keep the oil in better condition throughout its service life, and helping remove gunk from the engine by suspending it in the oil.

I remember the days when old oil would be stored for a few weeks, then the 'clean' oil skimmed off the top to use as a general-purpose oil (for squeaky door hinges, etc).

Now, the oil stays black, the particles still hung in suspension even after being left for months.

Anyway, as my N12 was built in 1983, I figure if I match the oil for in use that time, then all should be good. Again, the issue is how often it's replaced.

I have a mate who reckons the Caltex Classic oil (60w) is better for my engine, plus adding Nulon work engine additive.

Forcd4 · Post by **Forcd4** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:10 am

dude after my engine build and my dillusion that i was in the most modded car on earth i commited to amsoil, $180 plus filter for the exact amount your ride needs..... changed every 2 months, i didnt care at the time i was on rockstar rates $90 an hour when i was 19yr old.... so i did itfor a year before i got slack and used magnatec and you know what happened...........................................fuk all, made no difference car ran same tappets stayed slightly noisy and annoying like et's do but it made no difference, we not doing le mans here, if you got the right amount of fresh oil in there and check/ change regularly you'll be fine....

panagiwtis N13 · Post by **panagiwtis N13** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:23 pm

Forcd4 wrote: if you got the right amount of fresh oil in there and check/ change regularly you'll be fine....

+1