:: View topic - Kimmo's '85 Exa

Kimmo · 02 Nov 2006

BennyET wrote:

keen to see this braided teflon hose too, pics?

whats the cover hiding on the left strut tower? cant remember seeing one before

I took a couple of pics, but for some reason my PC keeps crashing when I plug my phone in >: (

The relays live under that cover... my Exa is one of the later leaded ones; that might be one of those details that vary according to when in the model cycle it was made.

Kimmo · 02 Nov 2006

The bends are the original solid line, with fittings for the hose brazed on.

BennyET · 03 Aug 2006

thats neat, i like it.^^ would enzed come out and do something like that?

Kimmo · 02 Nov 2006

Doubt it; the dude had to modify the fittings on the lathe before brazing em on...

If you can handle working on a hot engine, they'll prolly do it while you wait... should take less than an hour.

Kimmo · 02 Nov 2006

Sheisen exhaust. Not Fucking Happy Jan.

Fucker did it quite unlike I discussed it with him. Makes less power than stock, fucken...

Last time I get anyone else to do anything to one of my cars, if I can possibly help it.

This bit's mostly alright...

But it's a bit bloody noisy; I told the dude I wanted it to have a nicer tone, but not be much louder than stock. He reckoned he could build me a complete 21/2" system like that, with a split dump and a manifold that moved the turbo up and to the car's left a bit, so the elbow on the end of the AFM would be above the engine mount and hard up against the battery.

Looks half okay...

But that ain't a split dump... fucken.
I was thinking of trimming the bottom of that flange flat and putting a bit of plate angled up to the pipe on the leading side...

The dump

I reckon the hole at the end of the wastegate bit (you can't see it) is too small...

Here's where it gets really fucked... this boofhead said he knew what he was doing.

Check out the angle on the collector.

Not to mention the fucken great big space in the middle...

Gah! That's not cool.

WTF is that crap. That's totally not where I said to put the AFM.
Yet the arsehole admires his handiwork.

And where the fuck is my groovy air filter? The cµnt's pinched it and given me that cheap red shit.

This is where his pipe puts the AFM after I trimmed as much as possible off each end...

He's moved the turbo too far to the car's left and made it lower instead of higher, so he couldn't put the AFM where I wanted it, despite me running him through it twice before the job. And when I was like WTF at that bullshit gap between the exhaust and the intake pipe (not to mention like a 5mm gap between the turbs and radiator!) and everything, he had the hide to tell me it didn't matter because I'd mentioned I was going to put on a FMIC sometime down the track. Prick.

To add further insults to the injury, when I asked where all my original stuff was, he said he'd scrapped it... though he offered me the original warped manifold and suggested I stiff some poor bloke by selling it...
Fucken cuntarsed oxygen thief.

How much I coughed up for the privilege of grabbing my ankles like this.

$1.35k, fucken...
Now I've got a car that drones when it's maintaining any speed above 20km/h, comes on boost slower and doesn't even seem to boost as hard, and starts to run out of puff sooner, for fuck's sake.

Fuck you, Bros Exhaust of Geelong road, Footscray.
Get fucken fucked.

Now I've gotta learn to weld to fix this fucken shithouse mess.

And I bet I can do a better job on my first try.

Kimmo · 02 Nov 2006

To do this mod, you need to grab one of these kits from Jaycar for around $20.

Basically, it looks at the signal from the TPS, and opens the BOV for a predetermined time when the throttle snaps shut.

The assembled kit:

Pretty easy stuff; even if you've never made anything like it, you'll be right as long as you can solder, and you make sure you're putting the right components in the right way...

Slight mod here; since we don't have a TPS, this is a voltage supply for a retrofit.

The top right of the black wire is a regulated 8V supply; the two solder pads indicated by the screwdriver are terminals, one of which is spare but the track between them needs to be scratched away.

Here's the idle switch with a nicely-placed hole in the cover.

It doesn't matter if the hole's a bit big or whatever. Notice the hole in the switch itself is almost the same as the ones in some volume knobs... : )

Go the hack on the throttle spindle.

You need to make some room in the switch hole for the potentiometer shaft.

10kΩ pot mounted in place. The shaft needs to be trimmed pretty short... a single layer of electrician's tape gives it a snug fit in the hole.

For peace of mind, I went a bit OTT and dismantled the pot to remove the sticky shit (soaking in solvent won't do it) in order to free it up, but that's prolly unneccessary...

Irrigation solenoid - $40-odd from a plumbing supplies joint.

Bit of radiator hose for the curve. In hindsight, the reducer on the outlet was prolly a mistake

Inlet pipe modded to suit.

I reckon up near the throttle is prolly the go

TPS wired up:

Short black wire is obviously grounded; long black wire goes to that 8V supply, and the green wire is the signal.

BOV in place

It's powered by juice I pinched from the removable link to the reverse light switch, which also powers the the circuit itself, since it switches off with the engine.

Circuit inside a zippy box:

Green and black wires are the TPS supply and signal; red and black are power and ground (I soldered it onto the ground eyelet on the plenum), and there's a couple more for the solenoid. Once it's all together, you just tweak a little trimpot to open the valve for as long as you want (about a second or so, I guess), then you adjust another as you flip the throttle to get the sensitivity right.

BOV plumb back:

The idea with the reducer and the skinny hose was to get some velocity happening, and squirt it into the inlet of the turbo...

It lines right up...

Problem is, I can't even tell the difference with the BOV disconnected, so I guess there's too much backpressure going on, or the solenoid itself is too restrictive...

I guess my turbo's prolly having an easier time of it, at least

Ash · 03 Aug 2006

dude, thats some shithouse looking work that exhaust dude done! i would be fuming too! i reckon i also could do better and i haven't welded a thing in my life! he obviously hasn't put any thought or effort into it.

{TUBZ} · 03 Aug 2006

i agree with ash....that exhaust would be super loud like those full on drifters that run just a straight pipe....use some heat wrap for the manifold..

Panda_ET · 02 Aug 2006

dang thats McShit mate, specially the dump pipe is a wonder the flap doesnt bump into that horrid divider, I rekon my $210 exhaust looks better made than that :S

hope you told them how shit it was

j0of · 03 Aug 2006

those solonoids won't work for air, they have a little magnetic driver inside that requires water to come through a very fine hole to release, air wont fill it out it will just force past it..

BennyET · 03 Aug 2006

hey kimmo i'll give you a bov if you want one, hope my charity doesnt offend. i have no use for it

pity about the zorst job. maybe it is flowing better and the feeling of reduced power is cause its forcing more air through your irrigation solenoid? block it off and see if there's any difference

Kimmo · 02 Nov 2006

j0of wrote:

those solonoids won't work for air, they have a little magnetic driver inside that requires water to come through a very fine hole to release, air wont fill it out it will just force past it..

Hmm, I was worried about that... I was wondering how the fuck it was supposed to work. Oh well, when I do get it happening, I may yet experience more cool noises and boost after an upshift...

Wonder if I can mod it somehow...? Maybe I should just get one of these instead.

BennyET wrote:

hey kimmo i'll give you a bov if you want one, hope my charity doesnt offend. i have no use for it

pity about the zorst job. maybe it is flowing better and the feeling of reduced power is cause its forcing more air through your irrigation solenoid? block it off and see if there's any difference

Cheers, Benny... I don't look gift horses in the mouth, mate : )

But it'd be vacuum actuated, right? Thanks, but I wanna get this electronic caper going, since I've built the kit and added a TPS... ; )

I'd be surprised if the solenoid was leaking at all, but I haven't tried eliminating that possibility... thanks for the thought, I'll give it a try.

Not expecting much, though

garry · 01 Apr 2007

If you want your new engine to stays together, and not disintergrate from running lean get your self an after market computer and piss off the afm (they are well known to stuff up ) I melted a piston because of my AFM and was expensive.

Kimmo · 02 Nov 2006

What boost were you running? Mine's only on 8psi ATM...

I figure I should be able to bump it up to 15 or so when I stick on a FMIC, without problems.

IIRC, dudes with the standard ECU would bung on a rising rate FPR when they put the boost over 15 pounds...

Panda_ET · 02 Aug 2006

Kimmo wrote:

What boost were you running? Mine's only on 8psi ATM...

I figure I should be able to bump it up to 15 or so when I stick on a FMIC, without problems.

IIRC, dudes with the standard ECU would bung on a rising rate FPR when they put the boost over 15 pounds...

it will be running close too 100% at 15psi, some are luckier than others, with aftermarket ecu i saw 17psi without leanout with stock injectors and FPR, but i did have a pajero fuelpump. Stock ecu would go from 1psi 9:1 AFR to lean at 14psi, the stock ecu wont go 100% duty cycle on the injectors(not that you would want to only a dipshit would tune an engine like that lol) .
Im sure once you start whackin up the boost u will test it with a wide band setup Smile

.

have you got a price on that Solenoid yet? last air soleniod i priced was $110 Sad