Page 3 of 4
Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 1:53 pm
by Valentich
Help Help and more help....
OK I was thinking this will be it...
Get if finished at any cost...
So today, the first time I touched it in months...
Another F@#KING problem....
OK.... she Idles fine...
But in gear... under load... there is nothing....
no power, splattering. struggling and dies
I know this is a problem I have read about...
but i cant remember where and what is the fix.
I plugged and unplugged the ECU a few times, Played with timing....
Anyway... While I am looking through post...
Any suggestions...... Please
Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 2:46 pm
by baz
why do you keep writing in bigger letters & in colours :\
Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 2:57 pm
by Valentich
Well, it make it easier to read.
Especially if it is a longer post.
Have a look at some longer posts,
they can be tiresome to read...
Anyway, any suggestions on the problem,...
Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:08 pm
by Damo
Air leak post AFM pre manifold. Check your hose clamps and the harness to the AFM.
Damo
Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 5:00 pm
by Valentich
Hey,
I Had a quick look but could not find any air leaks...
I did find something strange.
if I unplug lead 1 or 4 there is a drop in idle
if I unplug lead 2 or 3 there is no change,
In fact, if i set the lead on the plug, but not all the way one, then it idles faster
I tried moving it like this and it felt like it had more power, not normal but much better.
I dont know anything about the CAS.
But I hear that strange things happens when they play up.
I'm going to give it another go tomorrow,
If anyone wants to make a quick $100 or so, I could do with the help LOL
Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:07 am
by Callumgw
I had a similar issue and it was the injector plugs. The get corroded and the default position is full open (flooding). Disconnect the plugs, spray with contact cleaner then wd40. IF you don't have contact cleaner WD40 by itself should also work. Get it right up into the plug/wire bit.
C
Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:09 am
by Callumgw
oh, if this fixes it and the problem returns quickly it can be the corrosion is pretty bad. If it is then you can splice on new plugs. I got a set with fly leads from Bursons, but didn't use them with the Haltech. Happy to sell them on.
C
Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 8:48 pm
by robbo
whilst I know fuck all compared to everyone here I'm only located in carlingford so if you need someone to keep you motivated I can come round and try to help haha?
Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:13 am
by Valentich
Thanks guys.....
And thanks robbo
once more unto the breach......
I have taken it to a local mechanic...
where I can keep it for a why and work on it.
First is the brakes
$450 for a new master cylinder....
I could of got the old one redid... but a little bit more and its new...
? As I put discs on the back... what effect should i expect.... re: stopping.
I have not thought about the proportioning valve yet.. and am hopping I can live with it for now ?
Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 4:06 pm
by Callumgw
your weight distribution is different to EXA and ET, so it's not possible to say. What you need to do it find a bit of closed road (so its safe) and do a brake test - Stop hard and see when the rear locks before the front. Ideally the front should always lock first when braking hard in a straight line. Also this should ideally be done in the 'worst case configuration' which would be wet road with least weight in back. Don't do it from stupid fast speeds, it wont have too much bearing on the outcome, they'll lock from 60 with a hard stop as easy as from 100. Depending on the rest decide what to do next.
Legally you need an engineer to sign off on the change you've made.
C
Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:35 am
by n12et_exa
hay mate have you got it on all 4 pots yet haveyou tried to change the leads on 2 and 3 over ?????? it sounds silly but it could be firing order issues especially if its timed to the triangle instead of the circle
Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:35 am
by n12et_exa
hay mate have you got it on all 4 pots yet haveyou tried to change the leads on 2 and 3 over ?????? it sounds silly but it could be firing order issues especially if its timed to the triangle instead of the circle
Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 12:27 pm
by Valentich
Thanks...
I did try swopping them over in a desperate attempt to get it running but it made no real difference.
But its been a good day.
Got the Prairie on the hoist, so I could weld the bracket for the hand brake.
So I have a working hand brake for the first time in 6 months,
I cant tell you how much of a pain it was not having one.
Got the new MC in
This by itself has been the most expensive part of the build, this baby cost me $500,
and as I was quoted $350 for a reco (apparently this is some sort of none standard one)
I thought..... Screw it...... for $150 more get the new original Nissan one.
and It was the only one the parts people could find.... and it came from Tamworth over night.
And in less than an hour it was in and the brake bleed right through...
Damn a hoist makes things so easy...
So I have brakes again....... 
Next.... Monday... Getting the thing running right
We had a quick look using the timing gun and could see it was out.... But thats for Monday
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:07 pm
by Kimmo
Valentich wrote:Well, it make it easier to read.
Especially if it is a longer post.
Hah, now I finally understand.
(I have quite good vision and no hint of dyslexia or ADD or whatever : p)
Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 10:10 pm
by baz
Doesn't really make it easier to read at all, its actually more annoying to be honest, its the main reason why i haven't followed this thread, fuck reading this colored writing bullshit lol
