So it begins!!!

Anything and everything thats not N12 related.
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Damo
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Post by Damo » Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:41 pm

Ash wrote:you know what i never understood, why turf an RB30ET out of a VL/T / 31 S-liner for a bloody RB20DET? :?

Do guys do that? :? Seems like a very limiting change.


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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Ash
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Post by Ash » Thu Aug 13, 2009 1:36 am

Damo wrote:
Ash wrote:you know what i never understood, why turf an RB30ET out of a VL/T / 31 S-liner for a bloody RB20DET? :?

Do guys do that? :? Seems like a very limiting change.


Damo
yes they do and more than they should! screw that!!! if you want a twin cammer in there throw an RB25/26 head at the RB30 bottom end! oh yeah! anyone want to throw me an RB25/26 head? please? lol

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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw » Thu Aug 13, 2009 6:49 am

Ash wrote: oh yeah! anyone want to throw me an RB25/26 head? please? lol

from memory

RB25/26 head = Rocking horse Sh!t = $$$$$$$$

:lol:

C

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Ash
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Post by Ash » Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:59 am

Callumgw wrote:
Ash wrote: oh yeah! anyone want to throw me an RB25/26 head? please? lol

from memory

RB25/26 head = Rocking horse Sh!t = $$$$$$$$

:lol:

C

you don't need to tell me that! RB25 head maybe, 26 on the other hand :?

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Thu Aug 13, 2009 6:57 pm

SAu forum is your friend.
Theres a couple of them on there as we speak.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Damo
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Post by Damo » Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:33 pm

Callumgw wrote:
Ash wrote: oh yeah! anyone want to throw me an RB25/26 head? please? lol

from memory

RB25/26 head = Rocking horse Sh!t = $$$$$$$$

:lol:

C
There is a complete RB25 engine with low compression on 1 cylinder for $600, local. I may have to flash $400 k k k k cash!! and see where that gets me. :D


Also, while I've got you here, what are the differences between the 32 RB25 N/A and turdo, and the 2nd gen VVT 25 N/A and turdo. Search function isn't operational ATM.


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:44 pm

Pfffttt...who givsa crap neway........ :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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shanec86
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Post by shanec86 » Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:58 pm

r32 rb25de head bolts straight up maate although the valve springs arent as good as the turbo ones, you can swap the cams and springs with an rb20 though. the ports are also not as big as the r33 ones although you could just port it out anyway. This is the easiest head to fit to the rb30

if you use a later VCT head you will either need to tap in an oil feed to the gallery buy using a T piece on the oil pressure sender feed or just weld the VCT feed up and not use it.

i think the r34 VCT heads dont quite fit because of different water/oil galleries

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Post by greengoblin » Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:05 pm

rb25 na head is very similar to the rb20 head, u can pick em up for pretty cheap these days, the rb20 will handle alot more boost then the rb25 head

there's been a few rb26 head's moving on sau for around 1000-1500

ducks nuts for rwd would be to build a rb26/30 if you do your homework n got the know how (more so confidence) then u can build one for bugger all, and enjoy the fruits of rb motoring

nothing like a rb on full song

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Damo
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Post by Damo » Fri Aug 14, 2009 4:13 pm

tassuperkart wrote:Pfffttt...who givsa crap neway........ :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
You just scared I'm gonna chopz ya VG dunger wid the skrine. :lol: :lol:


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:06 pm

Bwaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahaha talk is cheap Canberra man!!!!
L8tr
E
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Post by Android 360 » Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:34 am

rb20det can be had for $600 for the whole motor
a whole VL can be had for $500

that's why they go the cheap option ;)
it's cheap car syndrome......
"I wasn't born with enough middle fingers, I don't need to choose a side."

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Damo
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Post by Damo » Thu Aug 20, 2009 4:53 pm

Android 360 wrote:rb20det can be had for $600 for the whole motor
a whole VL can be had for $500

that's why they go the cheap option ;)
it's cheap car syndrome......
Hahahaahaaa, so the step up from the Pulsar is STILL the cheap option. :D

If the guys on there were switch on, you could turbo one for $1000 if you had a few spare odds + ends.
$500 RB20 might seem cheap, till you factor in after market ecu.


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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digginganddirt
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Post by digginganddirt » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:17 pm

looks like a nice clean car mate just pic up a manual 31 my self autocross/dori project :D
Image

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Damo
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Post by Damo » Sat Sep 12, 2009 2:31 am

There are quite a few clever designs built into the engine. 3 Substantial oil drains from the head. Groved main bearings only on half the shell. Cast crank girdle FTFW! And 4valve pistons in the N/A......WTF!

I have been cleaning up the spare engine over the past couple of weeks. After messing around with the Pulsar so long, I have forgotten how heavy a bigger engine actualy is!!
The crank has got to weigh 15kg, the head another 15kg, bare block is in the order of 40kg, 2kg for the crank girdle (yeah baby :D ), slugs, rods, pins and bolts 15kg.

I figured working at floor level might be easier to get a good look at everything, so I shifted the block to the floor (on a peice of clean MDF), threw the crank into the block and torqued the thing up. Then I struggled for the next 5mins getting the thing back onto the fricken bench!! No wonder a Testicle with 100watts is so quick!, theres no boat anchor in the front of the car slowing it all down.

BTW, I had a little trouble with the centre thrust main bearing. The crank just wouldn't go into it. It was as though the bearing was .5mm too wide across the side thrust facings. But the whacky thing isthat it matches perfectly the new bearings going in. Both old and new are marked .25 under size. Even gently trying to tap it home resulted it the brand new bearing wedging into the side thrust facing of the crank. Pulled it off and it clearly marked through to the copper of the bearing!!!!! Being an interim engine, I cleaned up and replaced the original undersize thrust shells.
It's almost as though that one bearing was marked wrong from the new set. Couldn't feel the difference to touch even. (shrugs)

Q, when a crank is undersized does the thrust facing of the centre bearing get machined?


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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