Xero's 83' N12 Pulsar NX E16S

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Thu Oct 25, 2012 12:57 pm

As promised. here the head after porting it out a little. Still have more to do, wish I knew exactly how thick the sidewalls are in some places...

Intake.
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Exhaust.
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Cyl View.
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And some of the other parts I cleaned up for paint that I didn't get earlier.
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Fun, fun, fun!

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Wed Oct 31, 2012 5:27 am

If I do lighten the rods up how important is it to get them shot peened afterwards in this case? Still waiting for my scale to get here so haven't started yet.

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Damo
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Post by Damo » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:27 am

Lightened or balanced?
Either way, the multitude of what you are going to read on the web will be shot peeded for sure without exception! But from what I have been able to gather, it doesn't give the results that everyone expects. Something in the order of 10-15% increase in skin strength isn't worth the cost of peening them. If they were being lightened and balanced at a shop, and peening was a part of the process, sure no probs, but I don't think it is needed as a singular option.
Even if it were to give the rod a 15% increase in strength, you have to remember that when the E series was designed and built, there was no (very limited) computer modeling of components, so Japanese cranks and rods in particular are massively strong compared to the properly modeled components from the last 15 years, or the bits from 30-40 years ago. 15% strength ncrease in something 300% stronger than it needs to be is a waste in my eyes.

Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:15 am

I figured as much, just everything I had read was saying it HAD to be peened or the sun and moon would collide and catastrophe would ensue ;)

If it was super important then I would only balance them, but being as it is not I will go ahead and lighten them a bit as well.

My first version of a crank balancing jig didn't work :( Cant find bearings that are free enough. I got some new ones and removed all the grease but the just aren't good enough. think I will have to set up a knife edge style instead.

Thank's again for the advice.

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:36 pm

Checked the 2 cams I have handy to see which I would use and I find out they are not the same. One has lobes that are approx .222 Intake and .226 Exhaust and the other has .226 Intake and .231 Exhaust. That is cam lobe lift, not valve lift.

Anyone know what the rocker ratio is for the E15-E16? Probably about 1.5-1?

The smaller of the two cams I am "playing with" to see what I can do grinding my own cam. I did a bit of grinding earlier today but the wife called and I ran out of shop time, no pics yet but will try to get some up tomorrow.

What is the max valve lift I want to aim for w/o getting too aggressive and putting the power too high in the rpm's? This is still going to be a daily driver after all.


Still waiting for my scale to get here so I can get to work on the rods. Still got to make the balancing jig too. Damn there is a lot of crap to do still lol.

Later :)

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:44 am

Well here it is. It could use a little more smoothing out, ease the transition from old shape to new but the bulk of it is done. Ground it on my shop smith using some bearings to ride i on.

It now has .260 lobe lift on both intake and exhaust which translates to about .390 valve lift if the rocker ratio is 1.5-1.

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Then swapped on a finer grinding head for the finish.

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What are yalls opinions on overlap?

So what do ya think? will she go or will she blow! lol

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Tue Nov 06, 2012 4:27 pm

Overlap?

Youve added some extra lift. Will only help if flowing the head shows meaningful increase in flow for the added lift.

Those lobes need Parkerising now to prevent damage at the trasition from the old face to the ground face.

Oracle
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Xero
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Post by Xero » Fri Nov 16, 2012 12:08 pm

Overlap, as in the exhaust and intake valves being open at the same time for a short time at the end of exhaust, beginning of intake so the exhaust out flow helps to draw the air in the intake a little quicker at the start. Makes like a siphon effect.

Haven't got much done last week or so. been too busy with work and home. Did manage to get started on the intake manifold. Got the flange roughed out. I did get around to balancing the rods and pistons out. The rods were 9 grams different and the pistons were within 1/2 a gram. Now all within 1/10th of a gram. I didn't however do any lightening of the rods, just no time to atm. Maybe I will do it later, maybe not. We'll see.

Got some more odds and ends cleaned up and some more paint done. All I got pics handy of is the block tho. Camera is in the shop and its too damned cold out to go get it tonight.

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Later.

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Damo
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Post by Damo » Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:51 pm

I think what E is saying regarding overlap is that with the stock cam, you a basically stuck with what Nissan cast into it, there is no way to change/grind different overlap short of a couple of degrees at most.

Wow, 9grams between rods is fairly huge for a forged rod. What about the difference between ends?


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Mon Nov 19, 2012 4:50 am

Actually when grinding your own cam you can have as much overlap as you want. The only limit on it is that the valves will only open 1.5mm during overlap (assuming you ground the cam down .5mm) until the rocker gets back on to the old surface.

The small ends of the rods were within 1.75 grams of each other, It was the big ends that were all over the place.

Here are the pics of the pistons, rods and some pieces parts.

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And I started putting it together yesterday. The entire bottom end is together, minus the water and fuel pump.

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Later.

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Sun Apr 20, 2014 1:20 pm

Wow, been a while since I was on here. Work, family and other projects stole me away from my Nissan motor.

I had another kid. A boy. So been busy with him.

I have an old VW Dune bug I'm working on, a 69 GMC pickup I'm working on and getting ready to start fixing up a Fiberfab Banshee/Carribee too. I just had to rebuild the motor in my 98 Pontiac Grand Am SE V6 as well. Damn pain in the arse to work on.



on the Nissan.... Haven't done a whole lot more yet but am getting ready to get back on it.

So far I have been drawing up some plans for the intake I'm going to have to make to be able to use the twin solex carbs. It looks like I may have some clearance issues with the hood if I am going to be able to get an air filter on. Drawings are to scale but I haven't got the measurements on them yet. I should have about 2 inches between the top of the carbs and the bottom of the hood. So I will either have to do a hood scoop or put in a cold air intake. I am leaning towards the cold air intake routing 3 in. pipe up to the bumper to use the holes that are there already.

Carbs are 4-1/2 in. tall and 5 in. wide. Intake tube is 1-1/2 pipe. Head is roughly 4-3/4 tall and 5-1/2 wide.

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Here is the design for intake flange and intake gasket Ill have to make.

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Gasket on Plate
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And plate on head
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Am unsure how much the head relies on the water flow that goes through the stock intake mani for cooling and circulation so I will run a line from the water jacket at port 1 to the one at port 4 to keep flow.



I have started to rough it out now...
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And here is the exhaust plate and gasket designs.....

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Gasket on plate...

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And plate on head...

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Earlier today I went ahead and masked off the head and tossed it in the sand blast cabinet and cleaned it up real nice. Then gave it a coat of 500deg paint. Hope it don't get hotter that that ;)

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Now if i just don't touch it it will stay clean :D

Will probly give it a few coats of clear tomorrow just to make clean up a little easier.

Later, and Happy Easter!

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Tue May 13, 2014 2:19 pm

I got some more time to work on it and some of the exhaust bends that I needed. Made the exhaust flange plate and port matched the head to it.

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Also started playing with adding some gauges to the instrument panel. Learning to fiberglass ;)
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Thinking I may add a second on one side for a temp gauge tho. The stock gauge works fine but....... Well, we will see.

Thats it for now I think... later.

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Tue May 13, 2014 9:32 pm

Block the water galleries off on the inlet. Not needed at all.

You would have done better to ditch the Solexes off for either a pair of 45mm SU's or a set of 2, or even 4 motorcycle CD carbs off something like a Gixxer1100 or even a pair of CD carbs off something like a KLR650 or the like.
Set it up as a sidedraft, not too long runners and it will kill a pair of downdrafts anytime.

The KLR carbs are 40mm and the Gixxers are 38 IIRC.

Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Xero
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Post by Xero » Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:11 am

Been a while since last update. Been busy with work and fam. Got the exhaust all done and the everything put together. Last week I blew the head gasket on the engine in the car so I figured it was time to stuff in the new engine :) Here it is complete and on the table, rdy to go in the car.

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Here we are in the car.

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She lives! Idk what that weird noise is my phone picked up, sounds like a power steering howl, didnt hear it at all irl lol Have not hooked up exhaust pipe to header yet so is a little loud :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmzZkQC9o_A

I was praying when I fired it up the first time. Hoping it didnt fire and blow being such a mish mash of parts. E16 crank, E15 rods, GA16DE pistons and 52A head. So far so good :) Still have to make the intake and get the carbs ready but that will have to wait for when I have more free time. I may look into sidedrafts as you suggest tass.

I also finished up the gauge pods. Will respray it all when i get around to redoing the interior.

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photoglossy
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Post by photoglossy » Mon Mar 16, 2015 3:51 am

Lovin the colour scheme mate. Good work on the gauges too

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