N12 Turbo Forums

In the short term, just slot the starter motor mounting holes to slide the starter a mm or 2 towards the engine.
Check that the ringear is pressed hard back and evenly against the flywheel flange. If not your wasting your time with any workarounds.

Secondly, check the sliding intermediate gear in the starter snout for excessive slop, clean and lubricate. If the gear rattles around like a prick in a shirtsleeve then again, ur wasting time and its time for as starter reco.

These two mods should get you another year or two out of your starter setup.

When the time comes for a clutch, drop the gearbox and you will see that the ring gear teeth are only worn in 2 distinct areas as the engine always settles to a stop in two positions only.

So, pop the flywheel bolts and rotate the flywheel to the next bolt holes!
Voilah! Brand new and unworn ringear for nothing!

Oracle

thanks Evan massive help as always!!!!!! definately looking forward to prolonging the replacement life, and keeping the money towards other work (aka rust, paint and panel) in the mean time!!!

Cheers M8

Oracle

Have finished using POR15 on the front end, inside the car, tyre well and undercarriage. Next step was to pull out the steering rack and give it to the steering shop to get repaired/overhauled to make it nice and straight, then it gets the nolathane bushes pictured.

Front control arms are also off the car and i'll try to remove the old bushes myself before likely giving up and paying someone to do the dirty work lol

all in all progress is pretty smooth, although will have to tighten the budget due to some unexpected expenses

managed to pick up a brand new alpine budget headunit and pair of 6.5" speakers for $79, also painted the intercooler pipes, catch can and rear springs in 3m hammer finish metallic blue. also here's a photo of my daily when it was slammed, it has been raised a bit since

got lucky today a heap of audio gear for $75, sold off what i didn't need within 15 minutes of posting it to make my money back and now i'm left with a 15" mtx 8000 thunder sub in a custom box. not bad considering it didn't really cost a cent, just have to pray that it fits in the boot of the exa

number plates look apropriate.

audio gear going into it has been finalised:
-alpine head unit
-alpine 6.5" speakers at the front
-unknown branded 400w 6x8 speakers at the rear
-rockford fosgate monoblock amp
-15" mtx thunder 8000 sub in box

confirmed the paint scheme, which is Nissan bayside blue, which will have to be converted from a 2k to an acrylic paint, and i'll increase the level of pearl in it.

After that's done I'll try and track down a set of white buddyclub P1 racing wheels to put on.

on a side note, found a hole in one of the intercooler pipes which is likely the cause of many headaches trying to resolve the idle issue...

few more updated pics



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intercooler and piping is all back on, no more holes

front control arms have had new nolathane bushes pressed in, they'll go back in the car tonight along with the interior bar the dash which i haven't repaired yet

mate's coming over in 2 days time to cut and weld in patch panels for the rust on the radiator support and strut tower

progress is good....

the car is now officially rust free, just have to tidy up the welds on the patch panels and then por15 the last few remaining areas so happy it's not funny

mate advised me to insulate the car whilst I have it stripped down so I'll probably do that.

finalised the aesthetics, the car is going to be resprayed in r34 bayside blue with extra pearl, then have a replica group c sticker kit made up and 15" work equip 01's and a factory rubber boot spoiler. no poke, no sticker bombing, no stupid p plater shit is going on this car!

all the carpet is out, threads have been repaired, front suspension and steering is all new and bolted onto the car, installed the new thermostat and flushed the cooling system, water pump was installed incorrectly so i'll have to do it again properly on the weekend

i have vinyl paint for the new dash, picking up some metal ready for the por15'ing of the rust repairs, and i'll jack up the back of the car and por15/replace the bushes there

then just insulate the interior, and the big job of painting the thing

oh yea... and since welding we lost power to the fuel pump. all wires are intact and were kept away from the welding, all fuses are intact but it doesn't power on at all.... ah well it will keep me busy

cooling system has been completed, dash has had a new crash pad installed and painted ready to go back in the car

got put in touch with a cheap auto parts store, so purchased a stock rear engine mount to replace the rooted one for the meantime

they also had 10mm topgun ignition leads available for $75 so i'll get a set custom made in a couple of weeks to go with the MSD blaster 3 ignition coil to ensure there is an overkill of spark

rear of the car is jacked up and halfway through removing the rear trailing arms to rebush them

not long now until the car gets sanded down and prepped for the respray...

10mm ignition leads, rear engine mount, spark plugs and a sander all bought, dash is almost back in.

thinking about it, i may have knocked a plug when taking the dash out and that could cause the fuel pump not to work.....

thinking of getting some replica bride seats