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N12 Pulsar

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hoppae15
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Post by hoppae15 »

is she a carby banger? my little carby poosar went pretty hard for a 1.5ltr carby and all i did to it was drill the jets out in the carby put a 2inch exhaust and a poddy on it and it went pretty hard but now the turbo must go in there over every commodore/skyline own where i live going oh its fwd its got nothing so i made it disappear into a shed and everyone thinks i sold it ha ha which is not the case nice little pulsar you got there looks a lot better than mine body wise and i like you hatch idea for sleeping :D
paul w
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Post by paul w »

carby banger? the performance is slow but does the job and I like the fuel consumption as I got 6.6lt/100km for the trip which is pretty good although I did see a V6 from a Commodore and would like to shoe-horn that thing into the little N12 but I don't mind as it reminds me of flying a old piston-driven single-seater plane in that the engine sort of drones on and sounds wonderfully reassuring and gets me into the mind-set that a day's driving is not as relaxed as a bigger car but once you accept that it's more of an adventure it all becomes enjoyable and the bed works great as it gives 230cm of length and plenty of width and I wish people would use commas like this, and full-stops like this.
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Paul
Dont even waste thinking energy on such tripe as shoehorning in something like a GM V6 boat anchor or the like.

If you want to think such things, use more imagination!! There is a world of cool and useful engines out there that will easily fit into a small car.

Heres one for you.
A VW VR-6. narrow angle (10.6 or 15 Deg.) V6, 3.2 litre. 180 odd Kw stock. Lightweight and gobs of power in a short and narrow package. Affordable packages around.
V6 Passats use a slightly smaller 2.9 litre version but are no less willing!

Try picking on an VW Beetle RS, an R32 VW Golf or an earlier Audi TT.

Not very many turbo Poosers could keep within a bulls roar of those 250Hp V6 4wd R32 animals.

Have fun.
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ETONE
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Post by ETONE »

i second the vr-6 motors to be awesome, i love that they only run one head. only the really old passats run the vr6 motor E, they changed to a v6 in the 3b model, now the have gone back to the vr-6 style but a 3.2 (same as the r32 golf) then theres the r36 passat which is a 3.6l and hammers for a family car lol

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Panda_ET
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Post by Panda_ET »

I say EJ25T rwd conversion :) good for skids
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Damo
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Post by Damo »

ETONE wrote:i second the vr-6 motors to be awesome, i love that they only run one head. only the really old passats run the vr6 motor E, they changed to a v6 in the 3b model, now the have gone back to the vr-6 style but a 3.2 (same as the r32 golf) then theres the r36 passat which is a 3.6l and hammers for a family car lol

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Those R36 Passat's are vehicular PORN! Especially black or blue. 8)


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paul w
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Post by paul w »

The comment about the V6 was a joke...but having said that, how would any of those engines fit in? Would it be a relatively simple installation, or a huge pain...

From other comments, it appears few engines will fit into the n12 engine bay with major, major hassles.

Is this true? If figure if there were easy enough engine swaps, the roads would be full of the things>
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Well, the comment seemed straightforward enough about the V6 for us to jump in!!!!!

Nothing is easy when considering a full engine/trans swap m8.
What you fit into a given engine bay is largely limited by your imagination and resoursefulness.
NOTHING (within reason) will NOT fit...... Its HOW you make it fit.
So many roadblocks are encountered that just dont ever seem to be forseen.
Always some funky part needs to be made one-off.
This I can assure you off.

If you have a fully equipped engineering and machine shop at your disposal, these kind of swaps are actually relatively straightforward. Nothing cannot be adapted or altered to match up.
The only limitation is your imagination and size of wallet.

If you only have a basic toolkit, set of jack stands, a small trolley jack, a lump hammer and an old 6" bench grinder at hand, then you job becomes....ahhhhhhhh ..... shall we say..... more difficult!

Its all a headfuck. Its just the magnitude of the headfuck that varies depending on your facilities!!!!!!!!!!

L8r
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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw »

tassuperkart wrote: NOTHING (within reason) will NOT fit...... Its HOW you make it fit.
yep, gas axe at the firewall and build space frame front.....

:lol:

C
paul w
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Post by paul w »

My apologies!
Dropping in the V6 was not so much a joke as an interesting thought.
I mean, it WOULD be fun to drive!
I'm quite happy with the little n12. Basic, and a little archaic, but that's okay - I can fix the thing myself. Also, thanx for all the help when I was putting the head back on.
The only thing I'm on the lookout for now is an electronic ignition.
paul w
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Post by paul w »

Oh, and some driving lights...
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Panda_ET
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Post by Panda_ET »

haha not as archaic as the buick V6 would be lol
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

paul w wrote:My apologies!.......................................

The only thing I'm on the lookout for now is an electronic ignition.
Firstly, dont apologise for anything M8! Nothing wrong with the notion of fitting another engine. Its just the choice of engine needs modifying!!!

Second, just truck on down to Jaycar and buy yourself a Transistor Assisted Ignition (TAI) module kit.

Easy to build in a couple of hours and simple to install and bulletproof reliable.
Ive use them for years in older point ignition cars ive owned.
Still uses original points to trigger but you get some benefits from an electronic extended dwell ignition system.

"If" it fails, you just connect the points wire back to the coil and drive on.

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paul w
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Post by paul w »

tassuperkart, couldn't find a TAI, but could find things called Universal High Energy Ignition. Same thing?

Also, if the points remain, why change over? Isn't the problem the points forever needing adjustment?

While I'm here, I had Pedders units fitted all round when I got the car (16,000km ago) and am wondering if there are other suspension options. Of course, there are, but I'm interested in something that offers comfort and handling...the Pedders are okay, a vast improvement on the tired original units, but a little harsh (although this may be due to the light weight of the car).

I'm doing quite a few country miles now, really enjoying going off for a few days of fishing and such, and am thinking of plusher suspension, better road holding (suspension/tyres?) and better lighting (no problems here - just need driving lights).

The tyres were bought due to the cheap price (Chinese), and they are fine (wearing well) but the Pedders guy was not amused! He said the sidewalls very very soft (he pumped the things up to 40psi) and handling would be vastly improved with better quality rubber (which I'm well aware of, having ridden motorcycles for many years).

So, is it just a matter of changing rubber, rather than suspension? As I said, the things are inflated to 40psi, so would better rubber reduce the need for a high psi, and therefore improve the harsh ride? And, also improve the handling - more secure, precise cornering, etc.

Last, but not least, got back to the car the other day and someone had put a very nice angry dent in the rear hatch. The paintwork is crap, but the bodywork is surprisingly ding-free. Or, it was.
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Paul
yes, the High Energy Ignition is the fandangled new name for the old TAI's

yes they do use the points to trigger the unit but becaus the points only trigger the unit, they are not switching in excess of 5 or 6 amps and so do not erode away and get shit on them.

The worst case scenario is that over time, the fibre rubbing block wears down and the poinst close up.

However, so long as the points cam and rubbing block is lubricated with HTB grease as its supposed to be, we are talking an adjustment at most twice a year.
You dont even really need to check them with feeler guages. Just point the timing light and if timing is close enough then the points are adjusted fine.
In fact, because the points are only a switch for the electronics, you can pull the points gap down to around 0.004" or 0.005" if you want and it will rev to a million RPM without points bounce but you can get issues with timing scatter if the dissie shaft bearing has any play in it.

I built my old turbo Capri 1600 with the best 2nd hand set of points i had laying around on the floorand it was still performing faultlessly 15 years later on the same set.
You have to remember to lubricate the points cam is all!

These ignition units are also compatible with any kind of Reluctor, Hall Effect or Photoelectric triggers as well if you are desperate to do away with points.
You can configure the inputs of the TAI ignition to trigger off anything and you only have to provide a power supply and a suitable mounting braket for the trigger itself.
A small tab of sheet steel welded to one of the unused pulleys will serve perfectly as a timing tooth.
A very simple, accurate and robust crank trigger pointsless setup if you want to get all funky with it and have the best!
I paid AU $5 each for my universal Hall Effect sensors.

IMHO, a bit of a woftam on a carb e15 but easy to do if you want to play around with funky shit and have braqgging rights at the local cruise meet point!!!!!!!

Pedders shocks come in a couple of variations. You may have the "Sport" variety.

Your harshness will be mostly coming from the tyres being over inflated.
Just run around 32psi in the front and 28/30 in the rears for stock(ish) sized clobber.

I donr believe that even if the tyres were made in Lower Khazakstan from old used conveyor belts makes any difference at all in a daily with stock sized rubber.
If your exploring the limits of adhesion in a stock 25 year old car with stock rubber then your in the wrong universe!!!!!!

I am happy to use whatever is round, black and protects the rims from the road and this includes China tyres!

L8r
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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