N12 Turbo Forums

tassuperkart wrote:Ya gotta understand dude that BOOST will NOT hurt pistons and conrods.

Its RPM or grenading that kills them.

In fact, a boosted motor will be far kinder to rods and pistons than the same unboosted engine for the same rpm.

Forged pistons and aftermarket conrods are only useful in the very highest of RPM engines and little else.

Boost away and have fun. if you break anything, then your tune was most likely shit.

L8r
E

Thats exactly right, bad tuning is mostly the reason people break stock motors. Even stock FE3's can take a serious beating with the right tune.

A quick update.

I've finally put the head back togetther, stripped the intake and gave it a nice clean slowly but surely getting there.

A few pics of the assembly of the head and intake











Stripped Intake













Throttle body



Super clean intake manifold



Complete head/intake manifold







Cheerz.

The engine assembly started today The motor is complete exept for the gearbox, tomorrow

Quite busy today

Also got longer wheels studs for the rear, and sprayed the drums.
Here's some pics i took of the assembly :thumb: much more where they came from









Looks plenty FORGED to me






Old pressure plate


Fcked, i wonder what seems to be the problem



New clutck kit







A somewhat expensive head gasket



Sprayed the drums



Some new longer wheel studs.



Fitted everything and put the rear wheels back on.



tap tap tap, in the piston goes :thumb:













Alot more pics to follow tomorrow :thumb: Ill try my best to finish the car tomorrow, i want to finish it tomorrow engine bay still needs to be sprayed, fuel rail ect

Cheerz.

Looks like you've come a long way with the engine in a short time! Nice!

Looks like you've come a long way with the engine in a short time! Nice!

tassuperkart wrote:Ya gotta understand dude that BOOST will NOT hurt pistons and conrods.

Its RPM or grenading that kills them.

In fact, a boosted motor will be far kinder to rods and pistons than the same unboosted engine for the same rpm.

Forged pistons and aftermarket conrods are only useful in the very highest of RPM engines and little else.

Boost away and have fun. if you break anything, then your tune was most likely shit.

L8r
E

I'm sorry for making remarks about boosting your hi-comp engine, it seems I have been on the wrong track all the time about boost. This forum is awesome, you learn new things all the time!

Yea, im kinda in a hurry with the car

Engine is in, made a short shifter gear lever and fitted it today A PROPER SHORT SHIFTER not a shortend shifter

Gears are alot closer than before, nice and tight, shifts nice and quick.

I would deff suggest it

Ill post pics of the whole thing tomorrow

Cheerz

Looks good mate, you've got the best of the factory camshafts in there too. There was a few different specs, FE5A have the most lift and duration.

Any reason for the tear down and fix up? Or just preventative maintenance?

Mine blew a head gasket a few weeks back, stock motor with 20+psi lasted 25,000kms

Thanx.

A oil leak on the crank seal, main reason, and a little preventative maintenance can't do any harm. replaced everything, bearings ect

Now the engine is back in and running, can get a garret t2.5 turbo for realy cheap, actually 2, i know its a baby but its a start and would be perfect for everyday.

Stock motor 20+psi for 25.000kms and only blew a head gasket, damn that right there proves that these engine are unbreakable

Here's a few pics



Sits beautifully









And heres the gear lever for the guys that want to see pics of it.

CUT



Here we go, add 20mm





All welded up.



It realy makes quite a diffrence, it touched the exhaust going into 1st and second but thats sorted now


Ill take some nice pics of the car over the weekend.

Cheerz.

How did you get the shifter - exhaust issue sorted out? Got any pix of that?

Didn't take any pics, but on the middel silencer box there's a rod on the left connected to a rubber connected to the body to hold the exhaust in place, i just shortened the rod, welded it on the right side of the box and connected it to the body, now with the shortened rod it pulls the exhaust a bit more to the right clearing the gear lever nicely

I only have a 50mm system, i think if i go bigger i'd have to have the exhaust bent around the lever
But im very happy with the lever, some say it works great, some say there's no diffrence. so i tried it, but i just added 20mm between the ball joint and the elbow, i didn't cut/shorten the stick at the top, so its still the same lenght in the car. and i used a piece of hollow tube, so there's no way its breaking

Shortning the top just made no sense to me, it would be harder to shift, you would have to use more force to chance gears, and its short enough already, any shorter i'd have to reach down to change gears

It was a hassle to get it in tho, because i didn't shorten it at the top

But the result is a quicker throw between gears, nice short distance between gears and has a nice sporty feel to it
I would say it was worth the hassle to get in

Cheerz.

What is the max boost that i can run with a Garret T2.5 turbo, at what boost does it max out, stop making power Standard

Thanx

Ok i said i would take some nice pics of the exa on the weekend and here they are

















I refuse to resize this pic



Cheerz

still nice and neat dude. no rice

Looks great! Agreed, it's not rice!

Is your analog clock working? These have a nasty habit of seizing.

Ash wrote:still nice and neat dude. no rice

Thanx

TurboZ.Dude wrote:Looks great! Agreed, it's not rice!

Is your analog clock working? These have a nasty habit of seizing.

Thanx

No its not working im gona get a digi clock sometime, i could've gotten 1 from xr6eta a while back, but with all the posting hassles i could just get 1 from the scrapyard, alot faster, i know now the old toyota hilux's has a digi clock thats the exact same size, just have to get it. Finding a exa here with one sill in and in good condition would be nearly impossible

Thanx again guys
Cheerz