EXAMADNESS's n12 Nissan Exa 2.0 16v

[EXAMADNESS]

Sprayed the inner arches today, right side

Also the front control arm. gona clean and spray the rear control arm tomorrow













Cheerz.

[EXAMADNESS]

Ok, i sprayed the right rear control arm, 2 engine mounting brackets, polished and cleaned a few bits.







looks like the exa's mounting bracket dont they i used 2 of them on the mazda engine









Cheerz

[TurboZ.Dude]

Good idea! Makes it look tidier, too. That is, until the control arms and the rest of the underbody gets dirty again.

[EXAMADNESS]

Well, i always avoid gravel roads so it will only be dust, and the high pressure cleaner would be put to good use every now and then. ill try to keep it as clean as possible.

I can tell you it was a darn pain to get the arches completely clean but it came out very nice, im happy

Now for the left side

Cheerz

[EXAMADNESS]

I just stumbled across some pics i took of the exa in 2005 realy bad quality pics, but the only ones i have of 2005

Just thought i'd share them with you.













Cheerz

[jesiotrot]

Thanx michael, man i love the sound of that BOV.

Do you mabye know if he used his stock internals to get the 230kw. and what boost he ran?

Thanx for the clip

That's my car in the video.

The motor has lower comp, 8.5:1 pistons. I made a typo in my original message to Michael!

Other than that it is 100% stock. The only other thing I'm going to do to the motor is put stiffer valve springs in it. They have been known to get soft with age and valve bounce above 7200.

I now have a factory Evo 8 MR turbo on the car running 20psi. I makes somewhere in the vicinity of 230kw at the wheels. The torque curve is amazing, power from 3000 all the way to the limiter, 7200rpm.

I would suggest using the same turbo, or just a normal Evo one. You can pick them up very cheap, mine was only $500AUD. But its an MR turbo, slightly bigger than normal Evo. Normal evo turbos can be found in Aus for around $300AUD.

Here is an updated video with the new turbo -



The car is stupidly fast, even though it weighs about 1400kg. Similar power in your light car would be CRAZY!

Be warned, your gearbox will not last long with a turbo attached to that motor!

[EXAMADNESS]

Hi, Thank you, i appreciate you joining just to give me the info

Im also putting diffrent outer valve springs in I can't believe your using the stock rods running 20psi so many people have told me they break at 11psi, i didnt even think of going above 10psi with the stock rods

Im thinking of getting 2mm shorter forged rods to lower comp, and use the stock pistons. Thanx for the turbo suggestions

What gearbox are you using if you don't mind me asking.

Very nice video

[jesiotrot]

I am using a Toyota Levin 4AGZE gearbox. With an adapter plate on the engine and custom mounts.

That rumour of the rod thing is ridiculous lol, my friend runs 27psi in his with stock rods. He has forged pistons. The stock rods in these motors have been well known to take some serious abuse.

I wouldn't bother getting shorter rods, I'd just order new forged pistons, you can specify whatever comp ratio you want. Wiesco have a listing for them, under KIA Sportage. With forged pistons at 8.5:1 comp on stock rods, you have a motor set to push out over 400wheelHP reliably.

More than happy to share my info and findings

Here is some more FE3 related videos for you to drool over, my friends 626 wagon -

[EXAMADNESS]

Oh you can believe me, I DROOLED tahts 1 serious 626 wagon

Thanx But i don't think ill go over 20psi on stock rods, just to be safe mabye when i get totally crazy 1 day

How's the 4AGZE box holding up with the boost, have you done anything to the internals? and whats the diffrence between the stock 626 box and the 4AGZE considering top speed?

Cheerz.

[jesiotrot]

The GZE box is one of the strongest FWD gearboxes ever made.

See here for pics of the internals - http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/23606 ... hread.html

Also note in the first set of pictures we are comparing the Toyota gear sets to Mazda h-series gear sets. Which are even bigger than your stock FE3 gears, which are G-series.

The gear ratios in my box are pretty much the same as the stock FE3 box. But the GZE box was used is so many cars for so many year you can basically get any ratio you want. That white wagon has a GZE casing with Toyota Camry internals for longer gearing.

[EXAMADNESS]

Thanx for the link, i just read throught the whole thing. When im making big power ill deff do the 4AGZE with camry internals, some very usefull info.


Thanx

Cheerz

[txateu]

The GZE box is one of the strongest FWD gearboxes ever made.

See here for pics of the internals - http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/23606 ... hread.html

Also note in the first set of pictures we are comparing the Toyota gear sets to Mazda h-series gear sets. Which are even bigger than your stock FE3 gears, which are G-series.

The gear ratios in my box are pretty much the same as the stock FE3 box. But the GZE box was used is so many cars for so many year you can basically get any ratio you want. That white wagon has a GZE casing with Toyota Camry internals for longer gearing.

Hey Jesse you joined? Welcome to n12! Anyway I dont want to Hijack the thread but I hope that Jesse's insight will be helpful.

Maybe it might even convince others to go down the FE3 path instead of using a CA18 or an SR20

[jesiotrot]

Yes Michael I joined!

EXAMADNESS here is some pics for you, stock FE3 piston and rod on the left, stock SR20DET piston and rod on the right.

[EXAMADNESS]

Thanx for the pics Wink

I've sent you a pm.

Cheerz

[tassuperkart]

Ya gotta understand dude that BOOST will NOT hurt pistons and conrods.

Its RPM or grenading that kills them.

In fact, a boosted motor will be far kinder to rods and pistons than the same unboosted engine for the same rpm.

Forged pistons and aftermarket conrods are only useful in the very highest of RPM engines and little else.

Boost away and have fun. if you break anything, then your tune was most likely shit.

L8r
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