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N12sumfin Track Thrash Hack Project
nah not 2 e15et's, thats way too much work, for end result.
i think its just going to be time consuming and what made me lean this way is the pics from photoglossy's thread there is pretty much nothing under the rear end of these cars and the suspension design can only be made better so why not have a go i suppose.
i think its just going to be time consuming and what made me lean this way is the pics from photoglossy's thread there is pretty much nothing under the rear end of these cars and the suspension design can only be made better so why not have a go i suppose.
- photoglossy
- Posts: 2135
- Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:23 pm
- Location: Auckland, NZ
- Contact:
If you want my 4wd E15 G-box then all you need to do is put down a deposit.
I'm being stuffed around a little at the moment and its basically the first person to put down a deposit gets it and everything that goes with it!
PM me if you are interested
So my vote it to stick with he E15 and have an E15 4WD box. A lot less messing around
I'm being stuffed around a little at the moment and its basically the first person to put down a deposit gets it and everything that goes with it!
PM me if you are interested
So my vote it to stick with he E15 and have an E15 4WD box. A lot less messing around
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Mmmmmm..... very interesting project dude but sounds like a woftam to me.
I think id rather start with something awd to begin with if thats the way you want to go. Nissan already have one of those and they are cheap enough.
However, to each his own.
There is no choice there but if i was going to spend up gobs of time, id rather rear mount the stock E15et engine /transmission. McPherson strut rear suspension, Fuel tank in the front.
Make a mean lightweight toy on the street, track and strip.
My 2 bobs.
L8r
E
I think id rather start with something awd to begin with if thats the way you want to go. Nissan already have one of those and they are cheap enough.
However, to each his own.
There is no choice there but if i was going to spend up gobs of time, id rather rear mount the stock E15et engine /transmission. McPherson strut rear suspension, Fuel tank in the front.
Make a mean lightweight toy on the street, track and strip.
My 2 bobs.
L8r
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- sleeper_et
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 7:44 pm
- Location: Melbourne
- Contact:
got a good price on a avenir halfcut only problem is its auto but i was thinking meh why not be different so i am going to use it until it breaks. i suppose then go manual or rebuild for some serious power.
On a side note i just noticed how lacking the n12's are for crossmembers in the front awsome for a bulky transmission and transfer case and i can even sit it lower to avoid the steering
On a side note i just noticed how lacking the n12's are for crossmembers in the front awsome for a bulky transmission and transfer case and i can even sit it lower to avoid the steering
- photoglossy
- Posts: 2135
- Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:23 pm
- Location: Auckland, NZ
- Contact:
floor pan has taken an absolute beating from being too low lol, going to have to wait until its on a hoist before being able to completely tell.
sound deadener is removed to the point of no more large pieces just need to wait until a dryer day and will hit it with a wire brush and wax and grease remover to get rid of the residue/ small fragments.
almost all of the holes in the floor pan to allow water run off were blocked by the sound shit so there is surface rust along the grooves everywhere, grr.
on a side note the removal of that probably saved at least 10kgs maybe more, didnt realise how heavy that shit is.
also does anybody know what to do about a strip of some type of glue running the length of the floor pan/firewall on the join, i have removed sections of it as the deadener was stuck to it and in doing so can actually see the metal underneath.
pics to follow.
sound deadener is removed to the point of no more large pieces just need to wait until a dryer day and will hit it with a wire brush and wax and grease remover to get rid of the residue/ small fragments.
almost all of the holes in the floor pan to allow water run off were blocked by the sound shit so there is surface rust along the grooves everywhere, grr.
on a side note the removal of that probably saved at least 10kgs maybe more, didnt realise how heavy that shit is.
also does anybody know what to do about a strip of some type of glue running the length of the floor pan/firewall on the join, i have removed sections of it as the deadener was stuck to it and in doing so can actually see the metal underneath.
pics to follow.
I have not read anything on this topic but I see your 3 options, Go the sr
My old exa I created from granny spec to a neat little BRIGHT car: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3903
Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute
Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute