MattoRX7 wrote:yea it looks like it fits because the E series engines were the updated A series ones. only 1 bolt doesnt line up from the gearbox which isnt a problem. the thing that sucked the most was the turbo and the imported inlet manifold was facing the wrong way and i had been scratching my head on what starter motor to use cause i could find nothing to fit untill i found the A series ring gear fits on the E series flywheel and i use a A series starter (no more ring gear falling of anymore) . i had to get rid of the oil cooler as it was in the way for the starter and i had to cut a hole in the engine backing plate as it had no hole for a starter but it wasnt much hastle once i figured it out (well pulsar parts figured out the starter problem 4 me)
So A series ring gear on E series flywheel, which clutch did you use?
I've got an E15ET to replace the A14 in my B310 and I've found a few swaps have been carried out already, but none have mentioned clutch setups. Can you shed some light on this for me?
Android 360 wrote: +40 is not the ideal offset for your nana hatch et, it's just the most common because china pumps em out en mass.
mmm an interesting perspective, but playing with offset for cosmetic reasons is just plain stupid if you still want to drive the car - IMHO.
Wheel offset effects the contact patch position which bears on the steering geometry and vehicle handling. Adjusting the offset to gain the 'deep dish look' is purely for posing. Fine if your into that sort of thing.
Android 360 wrote: +40 is not the ideal offset for your nana hatch et, it's just the most common because china pumps em out en mass.
mmm an interesting perspective, but playing with offset for cosmetic reasons is just plain stupid if you still want to drive the car - IMHO.
Wheel offset effects the contact patch position which bears on the steering geometry and vehicle handling. Adjusting the offset to gain the 'deep dish look' is purely for posing. Fine if your into that sort of thing.
C
what wheels do you run? 15" bluebird trx wheels still? i bet they are a different offset and width to your factory 13x5JJ steelies! practice what you preach i say......
back on topic........
surely you'd agree that a set of 14x7.5JJ +20's (or less) will be better suited than a set of 17x7JJ +40's with 'fake dish' like what most people on here dream of?
the great looking fitment is just an added bonus of having wheels that sit well.
"I wasn't born with enough middle fingers, I don't need to choose a side."
Android 360 wrote:
what wheels do you run? 15" bluebird trx wheels still? i bet they are a different offset and width to your factory 13x5JJ steelies! practice what you preach i say......
yes they do have a different offset, but this is required to account for the wider rim to keep the centre of the contact patch in the same place relative the SAI. **EDIT** I'm a twit, offset is a constant measure, because it is measured from the centreline, so the same offset gives the same relative contact patch - independent of width. Also EXA steelies, mags, and et mags all run 40mm offset and I'm pretty sure bluebird does too.
I am practising what I preach. Adjust offset to gain the correct steering geometry, not to get the deep dish look - IF you want to drive the car. If it's just about looks, feel free, cut sick....it does make it look tough, but handle like sh!t.
C
Last edited by Callumgw on Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Android 360 wrote:
what wheels do you run? 15" bluebird trx wheels still? i bet they are a different offset and width to your factory 13x5JJ steelies! practice what you preach i say......
yes they do have a different offset, but this is required to account for the wider rim to keep the centre of the contact patch in the same place relative the SAI.
I am practising what I preach. Adjust offset to gain the correct steering geometry, not to get the deep dish look - IF you want to drive the car. If it's just about looks, feel free, cut sick....it does make it look tough, but handle like sh!t.
C
I think you're forgetting what kind of car we are talking about here and the purpose for which it will most likely be used for.
This is the domain of dodgy riced up n12 pulsars, not highly strung pinpoint accurate racing car technology.
I'd like you to prove to me that increasing the track on an n12 pulsar will make it handle worse than the same n12 pulsar fitted with factory biscuits.
specs? in round figures say, 14x7.5+10 as opposed to 13x5+45
"I wasn't born with enough middle fingers, I don't need to choose a side."
Android 360 wrote:
I'd like you to prove to me that increasing the track on an n12 pulsar will make it handle worse than the same n12 pulsar fitted with factory biscuits.
Increasing the track is a good thing, On the back it won't matter too much because the wheel only goes up and down in a straight line (because of the type of suspension). It will increase the "effective" sway bar rate, which is positive for both ends.
But at the front it changes the scrub radius, which intern changes the steering feel and the way the drive will feel. It will also make it feel much worse in one wheel bumps making it feel much less stable and in the end it will be slower. I reckon all this matters for road cars, as much or more than for track cars.
But none of this matters, because your after the look, so be happy
