Jan's N/A Pulsar [pix + vidz 2013-03-23]

[tassuperkart]

Thanks m8!

Yeah, the engine runs very smoothly now... it was all down to the adjustment of the carb and ignition timing, as well as outside temperatures. It was about 5 to 6 degrees centigrade today, the carb doesn't like temperatures near or below zero. I have tried to run the engine carefully during the first 1000 kilometers, now I'm pushing the engine a bit more, but I'm still careful with it, I'm only pushing it occasionally.
Jan

Jan
Your only now running your engine OUT now.
Drive it like you hate it and stop babying it. Your engine will thank you!

L8r
E

[TurboZ.Dude]

Jan
Your only now running your engine OUT now.
Drive it like you hate it and stop babying it. Your engine will thank you!

L8r
E

Are you sure about that?

Well, there's no place I can do any driving "worse" than this... cops wouldn't like it. And I recently got an official warning (via mail) from the police about me speeding at 63 kph on a 60 kph road at a speed camera... I don't want to start collecting tickets and warnings, you know. (The "speeding" was not in any way related to the videos I made)

Well that speed camera thing has +3 kph calculated margin so actually I was doing 66 kph on that 60 kph road. But personally I think it's nitpicking to write me a warning for that. Anyway, you see, with a nitpicking law enforcement like this I can't really do any worse than what I did in those videos without risking tickets and/or my driver's license.

One of the cars I passed on the freeway (for obvious reasons I don't say which) was (I think) an undercover cop unit... if I had been speeding even the slightest amount on the freeway they would have put on their sirens and stopped me right away.

[Warning, inofficial political statement follows]
In my country the politicians think that making people paranoid by having undercover cops and nitpicking cops everywhere makes people obey the law. But this system gives a false image of cops who are only trying to do their job, people bark at the wrong tree very easily. And controlling by fear is not what a government should do in an industrial country. This statement of mine is almost a criminal offense itself, according to laws of my country. I don't want to start making comparisons to other (failed) political systems because that would really make this statement a criminal offense, but you can do those comparisons yourself.
[enough about politics!]

L8r
Jan

[tassuperkart]

Are you sure about that?

VERY very sure!
Cant help you with your cops.

Just dont baby a new/rebuilt engine. DRIVE it. Dont be a pussy. Actually, its too late now.
Running engines in is basically a hangover from the days when bearing shells were hand scraped to size and shape with bearing blue.

Why is it that rebuilt engines never seem to last as long as the originals before they start smoking and fuming??
Brand new cars and started, warmed up and then thrashed to the redline in every gear on a dyno to within an inch of its life for a significant length of time.
You cannot get a better running in procedure than this.
Most rebuilt engines are pussied along at low revs and low power settings guaranteed to prevent a decent ring to bore seal and never seem to get to potential.
my father used to own a Ferrari Dino 246GT. It was loaded with the sweetest sounding Italian 2.4 litre aluminium V6 you have EVER heard.
Those engines are preheated, filled with hot oil and were run continuously at near 8000rpm directly from initial startup for about an hour. Never hurt them.

Running in gently and pussy like is RUBBISH.

I have never run any of my road or race engines in and never will and I have NEVER had fuming or wear problems with any of them and Ive built a few in my time.

L8r
E

[TurboZ.Dude]

Just dont baby a new/rebuilt engine. DRIVE it. Dont be a pussy. Actually, its too late now.

What do you mean, too late? As a matter of fact the engine is running better and better all the time! I don't think it could give much more power than it does now. Perhaps I should do a compression test to see if I really have ruined the piston rings.

Why is it that rebuilt engines never seem to last as long as the originals before they start smoking and fuming??
Brand new cars and started, warmed up and then thrashed to the redline in every gear on a dyno to within an inch of its life for a significant length of time.
You cannot get a better running in procedure than this.
Most rebuilt engines are pussied along at low revs and low power settings guaranteed to prevent a decent ring to bore seal and never seem to get to potential.
my father used to own a Ferrari Dino 246GT. It was loaded with the sweetest sounding Italian 2.4 litre aluminium V6 you have EVER heard.
Those engines are preheated, filled with hot oil and were run continuously at near 8000rpm directly from initial startup for about an hour. Never hurt them.

Running in gently and pussy like is RUBBISH.

I have never run any of my road or race engines in and never will and I have NEVER had fuming or wear problems with any of them and Ive built a few in my time.

L8r
E

Well, this engine wasn't rebuilt. Otherwise I would have done exactly what you said. Preferably at a dyno. Besides, I always keep at least 2750 rpm (mostly 3600-3700 rpm) while driving, even if eco-bullshit-people say that I'm wasting fuel. Since the engine hasn't been rebuilt, I was afraid I would wear out the piston ring on cylinder 3 by pushing the engine too hard in the beginning so that's why I haven't been pushing it to its limits too often. I have had rust on the wall of cylinder 3, and this particular engine hasn't been run for 5 years or so, standing at a moist junkyard for a couple of years. It's a miracle that the engine wasn't (completely) seized.

Considering these facts, the engine runs pretty well, it doesn't smoke or anything. Well, it did smoke in the beginning, but after 50 kilometers of driving, it only smoked at cold starts. Today it barely smokes at all, slightly on cold starts but it's barely visible any longer! And runs very smoothly, as opposed to what it did during the first 500 kilometers. Most of these 1000 kilometers I've driven are all on the highway. I haven't done much city driving.

Well, this is all that I know. I have a lot to learn, I'm just an amateur.

Anyway, I will start driving normally with it now. Actually I was driving quite normally in the videos you see. From now on I will push it harder on the highways (high revs and WOT FTW ) whenever I need to accelerate. Just as I used to do before the engine swap and body restoration . And I will keep at least 3250 rpm on highways as well as freeways.

Thanks!
Jan

[tassuperkart]

Thats the spirit!
fang IT!
l8R
e

[TurboZ.Dude]

Last week, I had some dramas with the speedo, first it started exaggerating the speeds, then a spring came out of the odometer opening.

Darn, seems it was actually broken... a spring came out through the odo opening.

On Monday:

I put together a new gauge cluster out of two gauge clusters (as well as my old one) I found at the local junkyard. I took the time to adjust the odometer (as well as trip meter) to match the readings on my old gauge cluster. Now I finally have black gauge faces instead of the blue-gray ones, but more about that later.

Allright people! The new speedo works perfectly, now I just have to adjust the needle... I'm not sure exactly what speeds I'm driving... the reading may be a bit off. That's why I left out the glass... so I can re-adjust the needle while out driving.

Here are some photos of the process... I got myself two gauge clusters from the local junkyard... one 1983 model, one 1985 model. The 1985 model donated the black gauge faces as well as the odometer rolls and the entire trip meter. A lot of work but everything works fine now. I also put back together the 1985 one so I have a fully working spare cluster.

The three gauge clusters (I had already removed the gauge faces from the 1985 one here):

The broken 1984 one:

The 1983 one:

The 1985 one:

The 1985 speedo unit (disassembled):

The 1983 speedo unit assembled with the 1985 odo and trip meter parts:

The gauge face color difference is quite obvious (1985 to the left, 1983 to the right):

The 1983 gauge cluster assembled and ready to be installed:

The 1985 gauge cluster (foreground) and the 1984 gauge cluster with broken speedo (background) (oops, I broke a speedo needle and a piece of plastic came off the 1984 one):

The 1983 gauge cluster installed (I'll put in the glass as soon as I'm finished with the needle adjustments):


The reason why I swapped parts like this is; the 1983 one is almost in mint condition, all its' mechanical parts are in very good condition. The 1985 one isn't all that good and it's very dirty inside, but it does work.

Cheers.

[TurboZ.Dude]

Here's a recap of a thread I started a long time ago:

Hey guys. I looked at my old photos and realized that the oil pump has what seems like another outlet (see photo). Is it possible to attach an aftermarket oil pressure sensor to this outlet? I'm lazy and don't want to have any extra t-pieces attached to the oil pump unless I have to.

hey,
i think the oil pressure regulating valve is located behind this screw, consisting of a spring and a ball.

there a aftermarket oil pressure sensors that already have the warning light switching contact included, so you could swap the the original one for one like these.....
greets

Thats a great shot of the pump. That is definitly where the pressure spring and bearing are.
If you find your pump is a little on the low pressure side (sloppy old spring), you can shim it up for better pressure with a couple of washers. Going off the manual, my old pump was low on pressure at idle when warm with 20w40 oil, so I shimmed it up and now get a minimum of 15psi when hot. It used to drop to near on zero!


Damo

Just to clarify too, that cap pictured has a recess machined into where the spring seats. Bung in the washers under it. Try 1 at a time till you get what you want, but don't go crazy as too high oil pressure will have oil comming past the seals on BB turbos!

Lifted from the manual:

"20w-20 oil at between 73-83deg

28psi @ 1050rpm

43psi @ 1700rpm

57psi @ 5150rpm"

That will vary a bit with different oils. And obviously your guage should be accurate when testing.

Damo

[TurboZ.Dude]

So here's what I have done today (related to the re-post above):

Oil pressure gauge sensor installed and working, got myself an adapter cassette that goes between the engine and the oil filter. I get 1 bar oil pressure at idle when hot (~14.5 psi), and 4 bars (~58 psi) at ~2800 rpm (revving without load). I use 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil.

Thanks Damo, it seems I don't need to crank up the oil pressure! I'll keep your tip in mind, may come in handy some day.

And thanks Martin for your input too!

Pics:

The sensor and adapter (need to apply some sealant to the threads ASAP, the bolts are leaking. obviously need an oil change, the oil is surprisingly black after 2500 kilometers):



Pressure at idle:


Pressure at ~2800 rpm (the radiator fan had just cooled off the engine, it was 15 degrees Centigrade outdoors, cold...):

[tassuperkart]

You oil pressure readings are perfectly normal!

Oil going black is perfectly normal under expected driving conditions and only indicates that the oil is doing its job properly.
Ignore it.
Using a modern semi or full synthetic oil, I only reccommend oil changes of 10,000 K's or 6 months whichever come first.
Even my race car only gets fresh oil 2 times a year!!!!!!

L8r
E

[TurboZ.Dude]

Oh, OK! I'll take your word for it, thanks!

I think I will reach 5000 km at the most within 6 months. I used to change every 3000 km but now that I have an engine with less blow-by, I'll be changing every 6 months as you suggested. Or every 5000 km, whichever comes first.

Not changing oil often enough is a definite no-no, as you know. The old engine used to have very black oil with no viscosity left after 3000 kilometers, I guess I got used to changing oil often. This oil isn't anywhere near that (after 3 months/2500 km), now that I took a closer look at it.

Jan
Your only now running your engine OUT now.
Drive it like you hate it and stop babying it. Your engine will thank you!

L8r
E

BTW, the engine is running perfectly now thanks to your driving tip! Thank you once more for the tip! It produces a lot more power now... I have re-adjusted the carb a few times but now everything seems to be perfectly on the line and the engine sounds good, has good fuel economy, and produces just about the power it should produce (which isn't a lot though ).

Jan

[tassuperkart]

[TurboZ.Dude]

I picked up my badges today from the graphics shop. I've put on the 'Nissan Pulsar' bit, the rest stays off until I have installed the turbo engine.

[Ash]

oooh i like that hurry up and turbo the frikken thing so you stick the rest on!!!

[TurboZ.Dude]

Thanks m8! Yup, I will try to put the E15ET together ASAP, the limiting factor is my budget.

[Ash]

the limiting factor is my budget.

tell me about it. i miss the days when i used to just throw it around with no debt. Debt=pain.