N12 Turbo Forums

Same principle as the stock "LSD" in Toyota Hi-lux's which have a couple of spring-loaded disks in there to transmit torque.
The higher the spring tension, the more grip between the wheels.
They work well enough within the limitations of the design.
Not a true LSD that will tighten up but good as it gets.
A "slightly" more agricultural approach is to simply shim the diff spider gears up tight as buggery........ it works I spose!

I like to call them LGD's. Limited GRIP diffs!!!!! LOL.
Mine changes its mind, sometimes grips and sends me sideways and other time spins up one wheel.................fuck it!
L8tr
E

haha rito would you by any chance have any cantact details for me to get on to him?

Bits Of Italy
Fcty 77/ 22 Dunn Crs Dandenong 3175
(03) 9794 6692

Don't ask for Bill, he's at APEP, but BOI make the LSDs now I think. Just tell them what your after and they'll tell you the rest.

C

Callum,

The Exa looks great, and more importantly, ready to race. When are you planning to get it out on the track?

My next track day is gonna be at Sandown on the 10thMay. Heading down there with some mates from work. One is racing an Evo9, another an exIPRA Toyota Levin, and ME in the ET!! Should be fun.

Regards,
Darren.

thanks very much been a great help will, get in contact with then in the near future

Timmzy wrote:Callum,

The Exa looks great, and more importantly, ready to race. When are you planning to get it out on the track?

My next track day is gonna be at Sandown on the 10thMay. Heading down there with some mates from work. One is racing an Evo9, another an exIPRA Toyota Levin, and ME in the ET!! Should be fun.

Regards,
Darren.

Yes! your can be the guini pig and let everyone know how well the diff works

Time for a bit of an update. Most will have seen the write-up on Koni Insert installations:









Also got round to installing my sparco seats on the cost aluminium rails they came with.









Had to massage the floor a little to get a good seating position, but it's all good now:




C

I'll be running that seat as well I think. Good value.

Good writeups, ta.

lol would be a pity now if u found that it was an uncomfortable seat position. what angles are ur elbows and knees bent at when holding the steering wheel and both feet on the pedals?

oh and the seats look very nice

The drivers side has slides so it's OK for me. I spent the time to get the seating position right. Low enough, centred and far enough back. I'll just need to cut and replace that stiffener when the kids or wife what some track time.

C

We have a little baby boy now too, how life changes !

On Friday I went and got a set of Bridgestone Re001 Adrenalines (195/50 R15) and a wheel alignment. Haven't done a good test for them yet, but the wheel alignment certainly made things feel better than before! But thats expected after you change the steering rack, tie rod end, ball joints, struts and add camber bolts! So why am I telling you?

Well, I was going through the wheel alignment and chatting with my tyre guy (Brett @ Bulleen Tyrepower in Vic). Here's my readings:

Left Right
FRONT
Toe 1.6mm 1.6mm
Camber -1.78 -1.53
Caster 0.6 1.59

REAR
Toe 5.8mm 4.4mm
Camber -1.752 -1.41

Couple of things of interest were that the toe changed significantly more than the camber on bump deflection. So by adding just my body weight the front went toe out. I think this suggests there is a reasonable amount of bump steer.
The camber did not change for the same load, and the Eibach adjustable camber bolt setup gave plenty of static camber.
The castor is very small, this was probaly done to keep the steering light. Increasing the caster means that the more you turn the wheel the more negative camber you'll get. Which is good in turns and will help cancel the camber decrease (going towards positive) experienced under cornering on a lowered car. To adjust the caster you need to more the top of the strut rearwards, increasing the rake of the strut. I was once told that a good goal would be 5 degrees, Noting mine is between 0 and 1.6 degrees.

For the rear the setup wasn't too bad with the lowered King Springs giving nice negative camber and toe in. It would be nice to be able to reduce the rear toe a little.

So what does this all mean? Front adjustable CASTER plates for the strut tops and toe bushes for the rear.....

C

Cool, let us know if you find them.

DillonP wrote:Cool, let us know if you find them.

Find them? not likely going to have to make them!

Actually the rear toe/camber I got pretty much sus'd. Haven't done it but all looks good. Might do a write up before I get round to doing it myself, to let others have a go. Not sure.
slowly working on Caster plates. Noltec used to do blanks that you could drill, but with the merger they've gone all sh!t and don't make them anymore....Got another lead though.

C

Callum,

I like the seat rails!! Did you TIG them up yourself? Its a really solid/professional job. I like that. Gives you great confidence in solid seat/belt mounts.

I am thinking of taking a different tact with the front coilovers, now that Shane doesn't have any left. I want to use the koni inserts with 60mm spring platform setups. Effectively having the exact setup of Shanes coilovers but with Koni inserts. Won't be happening till the end of the year though.

Would you be able to race next Wed 18th at Calder? This is what we are aiming at, even though the guys at work have pulled out last minute, I am still thinking of going down there and getting one up on them.

Darren.