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Callumgw - 84 EXA
nah, doesn't feel like that at all. I've spent some time trying to figure how these work and did lots of reading of the PG website and even asked a few Qs. I reckon the springs are only half the story. there is a gapped tolerance also to the spider gears and I reckon that the little blocks also twist to help lock on the spiders. I've got more words at work, if I remember I'lls tick them up....
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- tassuperkart
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Hahahahaha LGD!DillonP wrote: ...what say you guys ? 'limited-lock-diff' ?
Limited GRIP Diff!!!!!
Regardless of the operation of the diff, anything is better than nothing or a welded center thats for sure!
That price for the Phantom grip is pretty good actually.
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
Finally managed to get the Exa out for some testing fun. Did the NCCA Motorkhana at Werribee on Sunday. $15 for a whole lot of legal hooning and hand brake turns is certainly worth it.
Got some videos up to Photobucket. These were taken with the ATC2K mounted to the rear wing, out in the muck and dust:
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Got some videos up to Photobucket. These were taken with the ATC2K mounted to the rear wing, out in the muck and dust:
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DillonP wrote:more handbrake man
Getting used to motorkhana-ing takes a bit of time, to quote Dick Johnson, "Busier than a dog burying a bone on a marble floor"
Left lock to right lock whilst pulling the handbrake and then back again....while trying to remember the route.....bout the only thing you don't have to do is change gears - most of the time - til they chuck in a reversing garage.
Most of the times were ordinary, but did manage a best in class time for one and close with another. Didn't hit any flags, but got on WD (wrong direction)
Despite have a flat spot in the power curve, the car pulled really well with the LSD on board. Easily able to pull the back round with the handbrake fully engaged and wheels locked.
But I think the loose surface helped, on tarmac the flat spot would cause it to bog down to much. Not certain whether it's the cam thats causing it or the larger AFM needing a better tune. I might try a couple of AFM adjustments, see if it shows sign of helping and then get a road tune done with an o2 sensor in the pipe.
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Did a bit more on the fuel/flat spot thing on the weekend. If you don't remember I put the 280ZX AFM into my EXA, as it runs the same bore size as the VL Throttle body. I hadn't had it properly tuned on a dyno and didn't really want to spend the cash on just the afm, so I re-read this article I found a while back and tuned it the way they suggest:
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/
There is a noticeable engine change as you 'finger the gate' and easy to get to the sweet spot. The RPM increases and decreases as you move the gate back and forth. So I picked the fastest RPM and locked it off, then I had to re-adjust the idle.
On the road it felt much better, I'll run some brisk laps and do a spark plug check and see how things go. Unless someone has a tailpipe O2 sensor I can use to check it out....
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http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/
There is a noticeable engine change as you 'finger the gate' and easy to get to the sweet spot. The RPM increases and decreases as you move the gate back and forth. So I picked the fastest RPM and locked it off, then I had to re-adjust the idle.
On the road it felt much better, I'll run some brisk laps and do a spark plug check and see how things go. Unless someone has a tailpipe O2 sensor I can use to check it out....
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yeah I know.....but I made up this tricky little pipe to mount the AFM before I got the Haltech, and figured it was worth demonstrating that it worked and is easy to do....It's one of those mods that you can't tell has been done, like the VL TB.
Also When I start the Haltech install it's likely to take longer than planned, then there's dyno time, and I need to get the Map sensor......Still got house stuff to do, walls to move rooms to paint, roofs to fix,
Being realistic if I started it'd probably take me 6 calendar months to do .... but if I don't start I can squeeze in an event here and there, there's Friday night runs now at Sandown which are no work time impost, so it's all good! so long as I don't start playing with it again ....
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Also When I start the Haltech install it's likely to take longer than planned, then there's dyno time, and I need to get the Map sensor......Still got house stuff to do, walls to move rooms to paint, roofs to fix,
Being realistic if I started it'd probably take me 6 calendar months to do .... but if I don't start I can squeeze in an event here and there, there's Friday night runs now at Sandown which are no work time impost, so it's all good! so long as I don't start playing with it again ....
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I was thinking of putting the O2 Sensor in, to verify the AFM settings. My plan was to put it in the exhaust where the old temp sensor was, and then plumb it to my data logger, since the stock ECU doesn't use it.
Found this:
http://wbo2.com/lsu/position.htm
It suggests that the location of the old temp sensor might be too close to the valves, so thought I might make the "tailpipe sniffing" rig instead . . but I'll check that distance thing first.
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Found this:
http://wbo2.com/lsu/position.htm
It suggests that the location of the old temp sensor might be too close to the valves, so thought I might make the "tailpipe sniffing" rig instead . . but I'll check that distance thing first.
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Mate I hear ya on available time, I totally understand you want it to be running and useable and get some time out.
I am currently building my shed which comes before my ET rebuild ...
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q85/ ... 041369.jpg
Remember any sensor will get chewed by leaded fuel so only leave it in for tuning and a threaded blank the rest of the time.
I am currently building my shed which comes before my ET rebuild ...
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q85/ ... 041369.jpg
Remember any sensor will get chewed by leaded fuel so only leave it in for tuning and a threaded blank the rest of the time.
Absconded - N14 SR20
HA !
so you didnt have a garage before or is this on the other side ?
interesting idea having it as a lean-to off the existing trusses.
my shed is 9mx3.5m and parallel to the back boundary, in addition to the double garage in the front, which is too full of cars, bikes, tools and workbench. 3m walls will allow me a mezzanine level at 2.2m at the back for storage of camping gear and shit like that.
so you didnt have a garage before or is this on the other side ?
interesting idea having it as a lean-to off the existing trusses.
my shed is 9mx3.5m and parallel to the back boundary, in addition to the double garage in the front, which is too full of cars, bikes, tools and workbench. 3m walls will allow me a mezzanine level at 2.2m at the back for storage of camping gear and shit like that.
Absconded - N14 SR20