Also picked up a slimline 10inch thermo fan this morning. And i just remembered i have a G-tech Pro RR. I bought it early last year for my thesis, to measure lateral and longitudinal loads at phillip island, but had forgot bout it, so once the cars finished , giddy up
WXTBIX wrote: And i just remembered i have a G-tech Pro RR. I bought it early last year for my thesis, to measure lateral and longitudinal loads at phillip island, but had forgot bout it, so once the cars finished , giddy up
mmmm, I dunno, I got a crate of electrical goodies for my car once it's finished, and I was going thru it yesterday thinking, "oh yeah, that'll be cool," and "I got one of those too....sweet"
The Renegade wrote:mmmm, I dunno, I got a crate of electrical goodies for my car once it's finished, and I was going thru it yesterday thinking, "oh yeah, that'll be cool," and "I got one of those too....sweet"
So if I knocked a few things off, you'd be none the wiser?
now ive got a new cooler ill sell my old one, so take a look on the first page, the pic is one there. Its a bit old loking now, doesnt leak, only need a lic of paint.....
Ill take a pic of the cooler and post it. Ill tak some more pics of the rust repair. All of the holes were cut out and replaced with sheet. Nickel Bronze brazed in, but i have to grind all ofthe flux off as it causes the paint to bubble over time. We also welded the seam up on the rear wheel arch, so it will be smooth, should look ok i guess, ill keep you all posted.
You use an oxy acetylene, just a diferent style of welding, probably the easiest to 'master' if i can say that. The main benefit is filling holes. Because it is at such a low temperature it make it easy to 'build up' the hole. I tried the TIG welder but with the curent at about 20, it was melting the metal, and its difficult to build up with it. I think ill keep the tig for the cooler piping, and catch cans/breather.
Spent some more hours the other night grinding the nickel bronze down to get ready for the filler. Also took the shock and springs off to get a better picture of where the wheel contacts the body/guards through its travel. With the control arm jacked with the tyre under the guard it is too close with an 8mm spacer, so i drilled out the spot welds for the damper mount and took the seat washers off and turned a couple of new 4mm thich spacer on the lathe and will weld them in 10mm inboard to take the damper away from the rim/tyre a bit more. Once this is done ill make some new wheel spacer that are thinner so as the wheel has a little more clearance with the arch. Once this is done i think that the rear wont need to be touched....Hopefully. Ill take some pics tonight and post them.
