WHTBIX...Updated **56K Warning**

Ben Hewitson · Post by **Ben Hewitson** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 1:11 pm

hey dude. just a quick question, where did you get the forged pistons.? thats really my last 'real' hurdle to getting my 1688 together.

Cheers.

Timmzy · Post by **Timmzy** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 2:33 pm

Hey Kris,

Hope the exams went OK.

I bought the 1688 'kit' through Dillion at D-tuned, all those years ago. I think Geordo bought the same kit. Anyway when I got it, turned out the shortened skirt pistons were Arias items from down here in Melbourne? So the person who bored my engine out said anyway. So Ben, try them and see if they have what you want. Mine are 80thou (2mm) oversize from standard, as are Kris's I believe.

Darren.

dan_sr20 · Post by **dan_sr20** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 5:19 pm

This car looks like its coming a long way, will be a true weapon when its done by the sounds of it. Good Luck mate.

Just be carefull with those wheels, I got this emailed to me the other day, check out the poor R32. It read:

This is a 3 page discussion worth a brief look at.

This is why it's important to have high quality "FORGED ALLOY" wheels.

buyer of cheaper wheels beware.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums ... 41481&st=0

Just be carefull, woudlnt want to see this happen to an n12. One less skyline isnt a worry but ET's are much more prescious.

Timmzy · Post by **Timmzy** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 7:03 pm

You would have to keep in mind on that skyline, that they over-torqued those wheels with the rattle gun, and that's common at tyre and brake joints.

I would have at a guess, that over tightening of those wheels probably contributed to the problem. The wheel on the other side of the car also had stress cracks in it. Very dangerous. Overtightening can be just as bad as not doing them up. That is why there is a spec.

When racing ALL wheels should be torqued to required levels and checked between heats. There was a few basic things that skyline boy didn't do.

Also, I would only run on OEM wheels like standard ET wheels or TRX wheels. You know they have done durability cycles from the manufacture. The only downside of course is that they are old.

Food for thought.

darren.

dan_sr20 · Post by **dan_sr20** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 8:21 pm

Yeh id agree with that, especially when racing and the wheels are under that much stress. But still a good forged rim for racing is a must, especially with well set up cars that can steer.

wombat · Post by **wombat** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 11:08 pm

hey i remember those old e17 stroker kits from ages ago - what ever happened to those anyway?

Ben Hewitson · Post by **Ben Hewitson** » Fri Nov 17, 2006 6:36 am

i was about to ask the same question. i remember the link and remember the price tag, at the of the day you still had to prepare the crank.. lol.. so i went about making one for myself. just ran outta time..

you running the 1688 off the stock computer.?

anyway keep us posted on the progress.

HewiB

WXTBIX · Post by **WXTBIX** » Fri Nov 17, 2006 6:23 pm

Ben,

Im running a microtech MT8, and darren is running a wolf,

Cheers

Kris

WXTBIX · Post by **WXTBIX** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 8:15 pm

Well ive welded the aluminium reducers on and due to 'fit issues' i have to rotate the snail, so hopefully tomorrow i will have that back onto the car. The great news of all of this is that there was a blow exhaust manifold gasket, and also the turbo was held on by ONE NUT, instead of the four. So power here we come......hopefully!!!

so not much more than this at the moment although i have concerns with the turbo sideways movement. Anyhow, much to do and not much time to do it in.

Cheers

Kris

WXTBIX · Post by **WXTBIX** » Wed Nov 22, 2006 9:56 pm

So her are the latest photos. The welding is ok i guess, as i am new tto welding aluminium.....it will do!! i think it looks pretty tough anyways

I had to make a 90 degree bend so i had ago at making one out of straight tubing. I should have it finished by early next week

WXTBIX · Post by **WXTBIX** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:26 pm

Well the cooler pipe is at the polishers, geting the mirror finish job, so that should look good, the turbos back together and bolted up with stainless bolts and lock nuts.

To those wondering, the exhaust manifold gasket you want is off the NA e15 (for those with no log).

So hopefully it should be about three to four weeks more and it will be done.

I still have one question, I believe that the fuel pump in the car at the moment is standard, with the mods i have will i be able to obtain 180-200kw atw with a bosch 910 pump or larger? Will i need a fpr (rising rate), dont really know much about them. Evan your comments would be appreciated.

Cheers guys, and gals

Kris

Panda_ET · Post by **Panda_ET** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:33 pm

go the japanese sectioned piping

raddavey · Post by **raddavey** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 10:25 am

what kind of welder are you using with the aluminium?

WXTBIX · Post by **WXTBIX** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 12:44 pm

Raddavey,

You use a tig welder for aluminium. Your general engineering shop will have one.

Cheers,

Kris

P.S. Still after advice on the fuel pump and fuel pressure reg guys.....

WXTBIX · Post by **WXTBIX** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 10:05 am

Well after debating about the fuel pump for a while, i picked up a bosch 910 for $200, genuine with waranty. Also got the cooler piping back from the polishers, and f*ck me its shinnnny. Ill post some pics soon, been a bit busy, about 1million thing on the go

Cheers

Kris

N12 Turbo Forums

WHTBIX...Updated 56K Warning

Cooler piping update