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Kimmo's '85 Exa - reincarnated!
Actually, all the intake gear seems to be off the old motor, so I got to keep the BluTack ; )
You might be able to see a slight a gap around one side there... I guess either the valve was failing and letting air in, or more likely, boost had pushed it further into the valve, since it was hard to fill it entirely because it's bigger inside.
LOL, the spark plug collection ; )
I didn't dig the silver rocker cover, so I swapped it out
You might be able to see a slight a gap around one side there... I guess either the valve was failing and letting air in, or more likely, boost had pushed it further into the valve, since it was hard to fill it entirely because it's bigger inside.
LOL, the spark plug collection ; )
I didn't dig the silver rocker cover, so I swapped it out
- Rohan 84ET
- Posts: 1429
- Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:51 pm
- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
With the 'run in', if it is a truly spanker, don't let the thing idle for too long (less than 1min) and don't maintain low/med revs at light throtal for extended periods. As for giving it a LITTLE stick, go for it!, just stay on standard boost and don't rev it past 4.5-5000rpm for the run in.
Damo
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
Thanks for the tip...
What about the turbo timer? The guy at the shop said to use it...
If the car's not meant to idle for long, how am I gonna stop the oil from carbonising on the turbo seals? Kinda between a rock and a hard place there...
I gather the no idling bit is for the sake of a new cam, but I'd imagine a reco motor would make do with an original cam, right?
What about the turbo timer? The guy at the shop said to use it...
If the car's not meant to idle for long, how am I gonna stop the oil from carbonising on the turbo seals? Kinda between a rock and a hard place there...
I gather the no idling bit is for the sake of a new cam, but I'd imagine a reco motor would make do with an original cam, right?
jsut drive it kindly before stopping. I have a turbo timer and only use it when i want to run into a shop to grab something quickly lol.
Low Slow and Sarcastic
Always Oscar Mike on the AO
www.twitter.com/garagepanda for my latest Inane comments
www.TasSportImages.com
Always Oscar Mike on the AO
www.twitter.com/garagepanda for my latest Inane comments
www.TasSportImages.com
Finally got around to doing a few things since putting a stop to the smokescreen action...
Got another washer motor cause both the ones I had were cracked, and repeated attempts to sort it with silicone proved to be a waste of time... for $2.50, I should have just got another one straight off. Hardly worth mentioning, but it's amazing how much something like having to continually top up a washer bottle detracts from the overall satisfaction factor...
Got a nice pair of 50W 6.5" coaxes for the back for cheap; superceded display jobbies for $25 the pair... a joy to fade my crappy fronts out of the picture.
And I finally got around to getting some new battery terminals and some beefy cable, and lengthened the wires to the battery a bit... I'm gonna turn my battery 90 degrees and cut the projecting part of the battery tray off, in preparation for the impending AFM relocation...
BTW, here's the hot tip with battery cables - solder the ends (if you don't have a big iron or little torch, use the stove when the missus isn't home ; ) )... the solder wicks up inside the insulation about an inch, and the cable will last forever - no frayed or broken bits from clamping. Also eliminates the necessity to get other fittings swaged onto the other end... solder's gotta shit on crimping.
Got another washer motor cause both the ones I had were cracked, and repeated attempts to sort it with silicone proved to be a waste of time... for $2.50, I should have just got another one straight off. Hardly worth mentioning, but it's amazing how much something like having to continually top up a washer bottle detracts from the overall satisfaction factor...
Got a nice pair of 50W 6.5" coaxes for the back for cheap; superceded display jobbies for $25 the pair... a joy to fade my crappy fronts out of the picture.
And I finally got around to getting some new battery terminals and some beefy cable, and lengthened the wires to the battery a bit... I'm gonna turn my battery 90 degrees and cut the projecting part of the battery tray off, in preparation for the impending AFM relocation...
BTW, here's the hot tip with battery cables - solder the ends (if you don't have a big iron or little torch, use the stove when the missus isn't home ; ) )... the solder wicks up inside the insulation about an inch, and the cable will last forever - no frayed or broken bits from clamping. Also eliminates the necessity to get other fittings swaged onto the other end... solder's gotta shit on crimping.
- thepurplepulsar
- Administrator
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:48 pm
- Location: Whistler, Canada.
Along with that... I was told to do a a shitload of deceleration while running mine in.Damo wrote:With the 'run in', if it is a truly spanker, don't let the thing idle for too long (less than 1min) and don't maintain low/med revs at light throtal for extended periods. As for giving it a LITTLE stick, go for it!, just stay on standard boost and don't rev it past 4.5-5000rpm for the run in.
Damo
- The Renegade
- Administrator
- Posts: 3002
- Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
- Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast
Amen my brother!Kimmo wrote:........solder's gotta shit on crimping.
Soldering is about a billion times more reliable & given the opportunity I would go backward in time and stab the guy who come up with crimping.
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Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
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Mid North Coast Member.
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Trust no-one but yourself.
The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member.
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