Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:06 pm
I got the Adaptronic ecu and set about sorting it all out.
Annoying issue was that the loom had been patched into the previous cars stock loom and had simply been cut out of the car leaving about 400mm of loom left.
So I had to patch it into the existing loom in the car. This is a somewhat modified stock loom that i had added some extra wiring to and made some other changes to suit my setup.
Not the way i wanted to do it but to hell with paying almost 200 bucks for another 2 meter loom and having to start from scratch. Its just Im not keen on various colour changes in looms and legions of solder joints.......
Armed with a couple of pages of old notes and hand drawn schematics from the previous Microtech install, along with a Microtech and Adaptronic wiring schematic, I sat down and worked out on paper which wires get spliced to what.
Reeeesonably straightforward but i had to add additional wiring for the resistive TPS, idle solenoid valve and MAP sensor.
Im using a Bosch 3 wires solenoid valve which is a common type of external idle valve which makes setting idle speed a breeze. In the Adaptronic config software, I can simple enter my desired idle speeds at *blah* temperature and the ECU does the rest. It will maintain preset idle speed at all times.
All in all about 25 solder joints backed up with heatshrink tube. This represents about half of what will eventually be wired up and sufficient to get it up and running but later on a lot of extra accessory wiring will have to be done to get master and secondary wheel speed sensors, clutch switches, TPS switches and so-on to get the really godd stuff working. More on that another time.
Next job was to run thru the entire system probing for any errors. In some cases, wiring colours change up to 3 times so its quite easy to get things wrong.
Another trap for young playes with the Adaptronic is the way the injector outputs are wired.
On the diagramme, they appear as:
Inj1
Inj2
Inj3
Inj4
Its very easy to just wire them directly to each injector in apparent order.. wrong!
The injector outputs trigger sequentially from 1 to 4 but firing order is 1342 so the wiring actually has to go according to engine firing order:
Inj1 to Injector 1
Inj2 to injector 3
Inj3 to injector 4
Inj4 to injector 2.
I use a light jumper lead directly off the battery +ive and poke the small alligator clamp directly into eac terminal/socket/pin and then probe back directly at the ECU plugs with a test light and armed with my trusty wiring diagrammes.
Time consuming but worthwhile in the long run.
Only fault I found was that when i had originally made the sub-loom for the EDIS, I had incorrectly written down the order for the ingition outputs and so now the coil pairs are reversed.
No biggie tho as its a simple matter of swapping plug leads and voilah!
Next task is to power the loom from the key and make sure that power appears at the various points that require 12v. Eveything tests out good.
I ran out of time tonight so next task when i have time is to reconnect everything and get the ECU powered up, load a working config file and crank it over to check for base ignition timing. its pretty easy in the Adaptronic as you just set the dizzy midway in its adjustment lock the timing at 10 Deg BTDC and just add or subtract degrees on the laptop untill 10 degrees happens with the timing light!
Set once and never touch it again.
Assuming all is well, power up the injectors and the fuel pump and crank the fucker into life...
THEN to harder part begins!!!!!!! However, Im tuning this time in Volumetric efficiency mode (VE) and I just enter the engine capacity, injector flow and fill the entire tuning table out at around 85% and away it goes!!!!!!!!
So much simple than entering guestimates of fuel dwell times in Ms's..... mah!
Enable Rapid Learn mode in the adaptive tuning sewction and just go for a drive! Its almost childsplay using VE tuning scheme.
Cheers
Oracle
Annoying issue was that the loom had been patched into the previous cars stock loom and had simply been cut out of the car leaving about 400mm of loom left.
So I had to patch it into the existing loom in the car. This is a somewhat modified stock loom that i had added some extra wiring to and made some other changes to suit my setup.
Not the way i wanted to do it but to hell with paying almost 200 bucks for another 2 meter loom and having to start from scratch. Its just Im not keen on various colour changes in looms and legions of solder joints.......
Armed with a couple of pages of old notes and hand drawn schematics from the previous Microtech install, along with a Microtech and Adaptronic wiring schematic, I sat down and worked out on paper which wires get spliced to what.
Reeeesonably straightforward but i had to add additional wiring for the resistive TPS, idle solenoid valve and MAP sensor.
Im using a Bosch 3 wires solenoid valve which is a common type of external idle valve which makes setting idle speed a breeze. In the Adaptronic config software, I can simple enter my desired idle speeds at *blah* temperature and the ECU does the rest. It will maintain preset idle speed at all times.
All in all about 25 solder joints backed up with heatshrink tube. This represents about half of what will eventually be wired up and sufficient to get it up and running but later on a lot of extra accessory wiring will have to be done to get master and secondary wheel speed sensors, clutch switches, TPS switches and so-on to get the really godd stuff working. More on that another time.
Next job was to run thru the entire system probing for any errors. In some cases, wiring colours change up to 3 times so its quite easy to get things wrong.
Another trap for young playes with the Adaptronic is the way the injector outputs are wired.
On the diagramme, they appear as:
Inj1
Inj2
Inj3
Inj4
Its very easy to just wire them directly to each injector in apparent order.. wrong!
The injector outputs trigger sequentially from 1 to 4 but firing order is 1342 so the wiring actually has to go according to engine firing order:
Inj1 to Injector 1
Inj2 to injector 3
Inj3 to injector 4
Inj4 to injector 2.
I use a light jumper lead directly off the battery +ive and poke the small alligator clamp directly into eac terminal/socket/pin and then probe back directly at the ECU plugs with a test light and armed with my trusty wiring diagrammes.
Time consuming but worthwhile in the long run.
Only fault I found was that when i had originally made the sub-loom for the EDIS, I had incorrectly written down the order for the ingition outputs and so now the coil pairs are reversed.
No biggie tho as its a simple matter of swapping plug leads and voilah!
Next task is to power the loom from the key and make sure that power appears at the various points that require 12v. Eveything tests out good.
I ran out of time tonight so next task when i have time is to reconnect everything and get the ECU powered up, load a working config file and crank it over to check for base ignition timing. its pretty easy in the Adaptronic as you just set the dizzy midway in its adjustment lock the timing at 10 Deg BTDC and just add or subtract degrees on the laptop untill 10 degrees happens with the timing light!
Set once and never touch it again.
Assuming all is well, power up the injectors and the fuel pump and crank the fucker into life...
THEN to harder part begins!!!!!!! However, Im tuning this time in Volumetric efficiency mode (VE) and I just enter the engine capacity, injector flow and fill the entire tuning table out at around 85% and away it goes!!!!!!!!
So much simple than entering guestimates of fuel dwell times in Ms's..... mah!
Enable Rapid Learn mode in the adaptive tuning sewction and just go for a drive! Its almost childsplay using VE tuning scheme.
Cheers
Oracle