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Tassuperkarts GX Turbo (Updated again!)

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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy »

Have fun tuning on the weekend then! Its a fair amount of work you have done..

Don't cock the tune up :)

That's the smartarse in me coming out.

Darren.
Race it.
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Tassuperkart *takes a bow*!!!!!!!!!

Oracle!
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
Forcd4
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Post by Forcd4 »

What inlet manifold is that from?
" Friends may come and go but 200lbs is always 200lbs " - Henry Rolland -
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

The "EGI" plenum is off an EFI NA e15s. Not Aus delivered.
This one came from NZ.
The runners are all the same tho.

L8r
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Timmzy wrote:Have fun tuning on the weekend then! Its a fair amount of work you have done..

Don't cock the tune up :)
That's the smartarse in me coming out.
Darren.
Very very harsh Darren. It seems you remember well what i did to it lmao! Cheeky kent!

Cheers
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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Post by Forcd4 »

NZ bro. Choice
" Friends may come and go but 200lbs is always 200lbs " - Henry Rolland -
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tassuperkart
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Its Alive!

Post by tassuperkart »

Was a productive day today but I ran into a few annoying little things which just add time.

I already had the complete engine/transmission up on the hoist so dragged that car under it lowered away and there you go.
Took me about an hour to fit the motor and lock up everything underneath.

I gave myself about 4 hours to do the entire fitup.

However, things never go to plan and I spent prolly a further 3 hours changing and fixing little things.

One of the geaqrbox mouting holes threads was very loose. I knew this when i fitted the box originally so i had to remove the bracket and run a tap down the hole and clean it up and force it as deep as it would go. Find a longer bolt and yay.
Throttle cable was frayed so make another inner cable.
The cable bracket on the plenum was always a little dodgey so i reworked that.
Injector plugs all had to be changed.
I had no end of touble with these due to the little contact pin thingies not fitting correctly into the plastic plugs.
Re-route the heater hose.
I dont have the funky hose fitting on my waterpump inlet and my heater hose attaches to a hosetail soldered deirectly onto the lower radiator hosetail. Thing is with the new manifold arrangement, this hose runs quite closely to the turbo aqnd dump so with a preformed heater hose elbow and some chicanery, i routed it down and away from the hot areas.

Those jobs sound quite simple, and they were, but they sucked up a couple of hours when you figure in "fuckabout factor".

The rest was just add in the various pipes, hoses, wiring gearbox and engine oil plus water....... drip...drip....drip....wtf??? Coming from my funky little waterpump inlet elbow i made... fekkin thing leaking but I checked the elbow for leaks after I made it... kent.
wait a minute........ drip.. drip....dripdripdrip..... drip....dripdripdripdrip..... it cant be leaking that much.
Fucke me iffen its not the bloody waterpump itself leaking as well.............. I used a known and working pump that was originally on the wifeys ET and that car has been well loved in the past so i have not issue with using it......... Kentoffathing! Wait and see on these things for now.

Oh well, pop in a battery and wind the little cunt over with no plugs in to prime up oil. Yup, done!
Chuck the plugs in and wind wind wind,,, errr wtf?????? have a look at the CAS indicator on the Microtech and Im getting no CAS signal.......ehh???.............Ahhhhhh!! now I get it! I inadvertanly put the dissie that belonged to the EMS system I previously had and that ecu does not use the synch timer as its a plain single coil/dissie ecu..... Mah bad!
The Microtech is sequential fire with multiple coils so needs the synch timer connected.

I remember then i use a standard unmodified dissie I have so i dug that, plugged her in and got ecu indication and sparks.

Last thing was to make an overall trim adjustment to the ECU. It already had a reasonable tune in it for 275cc injectors and I was fitting 440's so i removed 30% to begin with.

Hit the key and you know, straight away the little cunt is alive! Like it was started from already warm!!!! Always puts a smile on my face when you get that!!!
However, it was down a cylinder.. this was strange as I had good spark on all cylinders but # 1 was cold.
So, start tugging on the injector plugs, pull each one off and back on and # 1 makes no diff.
OK, either a stuck injector or...well Im fairly handy with wiring and I soldered those pins on along with crimping them so i was confident the connections were good.
Newhoo give the wires a pull on # 1 and one of the wires comes out of the plug..... mah!
I mentione previously I had trouble with the pins not fitting into the plugs. I had to physically force the pins into their little holes using a pair of pliers and I remember seriously bending this one as I shoved it against my hand. I thought all was good, just straighten it up and yeah.. but I must have broken the end off the pin. It all looked ok but since I had backed up the joints with heatshrink tube, the hst was holding the pin together.....farkit!

OK, fix that, put a fire in its belly and NOW its got all 4 cylinders running!!!
Engine runs pretty rough due to overly rich still and the timing is retarded a bit so fix the timing first and set to and do some basic low down tuning while it heats up.

Ive gotten it to settle into a good and robust idle @900rpm but the Microtech is struggling to control the injectors down low as the tuning resolution is just too coarse. Simply put, not enough fine adjustment on injector dwell time.
It seems to run happily enough on one figure, go just once click up and its rich and go down below a click and the bastard pops and farts too lean...sheesh!
Im also guessing that the interpolation between 2 load points is not linear as well. Something Ive suspected for a long time but it makes it a trial to get things running just right.
However, Im very patient and will continue fine tuning it when time permits.
Furthermore, figure in the fact that Microtech does not have any injector dead time correction and it makes for a fairly sketchy idle as it leans off slightly when you hit the lights and fans.
Cant do much about this due to the agricultural nature of the older Microtechs so Ill just have to live with slightly rougher idling when the lights are on.
I have a simple idle-up valve on the plenum so ill invoke that with the headlights to help it maintain idle speed at least!.

Engine feels nice and lively with the light flywheel. Not at all sketchy down low but the engine does die much quicker than normal when it exploits tuning hassles....expected!
Its still not too light and I can reccomend this amount lightening to anybody who is considering it.
To be honest, Id be quite happy to go lighter by quite a bit but that is going to be an aluminium flywheel and I cant imagine finding one off the shelf and having one made would cost, Id predict, in the vicinity of 7 to 800 bucks. Remember, you have to add in removeable steel clutch faces to an ally fly so lot of work involved on a one off basis. So... fekkit.

I moved the car back and forwards a few time and the clutch is driveable and not very shuddery until close to lockup. Might take some time to settle down and "run in" so ill wait and see till then. If i dont like it, ill throw the other organic clutch disk back in which is very road friendly.

Curiously, after fucking about with it for 10 minutes, the water leaks have settled right down, if not dissappeared so mebbe my liitle pipe is not porous afterall and just leaking from the hose which was always a bit of an issue. The hose setup is made out of generic hose elbows and not the correct size.
The waterpump leak has calmed down to just an occasional drip so I might just persist with it for a while and see if that settles down. The writing is on the wall tho and ill fit a brand new pump in due course.

Next up is some road tuning and give the little thing a bit of a hammering to settle the rings down, so Ill just up all the fuels to "too rich" levels and give it some decent pulls!

That my friends just about brings this entire story to an end.

The next installment will be fitting up the R31 rear disks and calipers.
More later.

Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Got the Pooser out onto the road today for some hard pulls and some road tuning.
AFR's were hovering around 10 and I am running a very conservative ignition curve so Im hoping not to grenade it again..........

A couple of hard pulls on boost at around 3500 to 4000rpm and running in is completed.

After that, just a few runs up and down the hills around home to trim back the very low afr's to around 12 to 12.5.
Ive gotten light load looking quite good now.

As mentioned earlier, the issue of injector dead time has been highlighted by these large(ish) old Bosch injectors.

I get the thing happily idling and show good AFR's on the WBo2. However, switch on the lights to high beam and with a voltage drop, the afr's jump up from mid 12's to mid 13's which is utter rubbish....
With a finely tuned top end, thats enough of a drop to grenade a piston or burn a valve...........
I have a rather funky way of getting around this problem which requires the use of a regulated switchmode power supply for the injectors.
They will see 14v regardless of battery voltage, even when cranking so the issue goes away.
Ill detail more on that when I source the appropriate power supply.

Overall, the engine is performing quite nicely with good throttle response from very low down with no hesitations.
The engine spins very freely and happily up to higher revs and makes meaningful power at modest boost, but the 6 segment brass clutch is fairly unforgiving. A little more unforgiving that i would expect from what is close to a full-face brass clutch.
It has a nice and easy takeup with some light shudder but as it approaches full friction it shudders quite badly. Im going to persist with it for a while until it settles down but if it continues to be unfriendly, Ill pull the box and fit up the organic plate.

The water leaks have dissappeared as well thankfully so thats a bonus but Ill still replace the waterpump in the near future just to be sure.

So, looking good for now. Its been fun getting back into the little shitter and giving it a good kicking. Id forgotten how much grip the little thing makes and how well you can point it at very high speed with very little fuss or bother. Its no 300ZX but tons of fun to rape!!

Cheers
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

I uploaded new vid of a cold start of the now rebuilt GX Pooser turbo.
Its getting there with robust and reliable starts both cold and hot after some fiddling with it.
A tip for tuners, what I have noticed with E15et's is how LITTLE extra fuel they need to start and run reliably from cold.
The 440cc injectors do make things a little more tricky with the very coarse tuning resolution of the Microtech but what I have now is not too bad considering its state of tune.

More to come tho.

Excuse the cheezy commentary!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUTZbX1sSJY

Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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Post by tassuperkart »

Some of you know I fitted some big Evo 4 front disks and calipers to the Pooser some time back.
The stocke disks are tiny little 235mm solids and the Evo's are 285mm vented! Quite and increase in diameter and pad area along with a fairly large piston area increase.
The braking is very good so long as you dont turn the wheel or unload the suspension over bumps which results in an instant lockup of one front of the other.
Altho the brakers feel very powerful, the result is actually worse braking taking everything into account due to ridiculous overly front bias.

A while back, i started looking around for some substitute bigger rear brakes to better match the big front.

The criteria being as little machining as possible and easy to source.
After a lot of searching over time, I hit upon Nissan R31 Pintara/Sk'rine rear disks and calipers.

R31 disks are 265mm (235 stock) and much larger calipers, bigger pistons with much more pad area.
Even better is that the R31 caliper use the exact same handbrake attachment as the Pooser which is a serious yay!
They also have the same hydraulic hose fitting so another yay! No funky brake lines or handbrake cables to make!

The beauty here is that the skrine disks are a simple slip over stud type (does not contain bearings) and the same PCD as the Pooser and so i just machined down a pair of old drum brakes i had left over from when the Pooser was stock, copying the dimensions of the skrine rear axle flange and these are machined to slip fit into a machined area on the back of the skrine disk to center them nicely.
I used longer studs from the old stock disks that were fitted to allow a 5mm spacer behind the wheel to keep the tyre from rubbing on the shocks. because the skrine disk front face is about 5mm thick, this extra spacing takes the place of the dodgey cop-bait spacer.
All then I had to do was make a simple "dogbone" caliper bracket to carry the caliper in about the same position as ther stock caliper.

The "development" version is a simple flat affair made out of 5mm thick ally plate which I cut to shape using a "wheel of death".. This stuff is a little flexible when used as a flat plate but is plenty strong enough as most loadings are in shear so it serves the purpose in the short term. However, due to the mounting faces not being in alignment with the disk centerline, there will be a significant amount of tristing of the plate under braking which will result in uneven pad wear and a lengthening pedal as the pads wear down unevenly.
I could weld some strengthening ribs to it but im NO fan of welding brake components, especially ally brake componets so ill just use thicker plate.
I actually need 8mm thick material to space the caliper out to center it correctly on the disk but i dont have anything like that handy so i have adjusted the caliper spacing using thick washers.

Once Im happy with everything, Ill have a pair cut out from 8mm-5/16" steel sheet which will correctly space the calipers and not flex as much as the thin ally sheet and should maintain a much better caliper/pad alignment. I could use 10mm plate but this would require a machining process to be added to bring the caliper back into alignment which is just not necessary.

Anyway, bolt on my funky little bracket, fit the hub and set the bearings, bolt the caliper on with about 3mm of spacing to center it over the disk, hook the stock handbrake brackets and cables up and voilah!!
Instant bigger brakes!!!
Just a bit of playing aroud with handbrake cable adjustment and we are in business.

I drove it around for a bit using the handbrake to try and get some sort of settling in of the rear pads and then did some easy braking to thoroughly warm the brakes.

A couple of hard stops later and O..M...F...G!!!
The brakes on this care are simply INSANELY powerfull with a slight hint of rearwards bias.
Unfuckingbelieveable is the only way to describe how hard and straight this little car stops now!!!!!!!!
An emergency stop from 120kph reults in just the slightest hint of a rear lockup but it is only just before the fonts.
The only thing I have driven having better brakes than this is my racecar and that thing has the most amazing set of brakes I have EVER used!
This Pooser now rivals the race car for simply eyeball bulging stopping power, control and feel. You can just shove down on the pedal and bring the whells close to the point of lockup. Both ends squirming about and ajust it finely to suit any little pinches and this thing just looses speed and the most mind boggling rate!!!!!!!!!

Only drawback so far is a fairly long pedal which goes down about halfway before any real stopping power happens but fuck-me-swingin when these anchors grab it nearly pastes your face into the windscreen and the car goes close to chucking a handstand!!!!!!!

Simply the most amazing braking system on a light car you can ever imagine. I can only predict that as the rear pads settle in they will bite even harder but if you remember, in an effort to bias the brake to the rear, I hads fitted a drum brake pooser master cylinder which has some extra rearward bias to account for the disk/drum combination.

Ill see how things go after the pads bed in and if necessary, ill just swap in the ET master cylinder.

Word of warning, DO NOT try this modification unless you fit the Mitsubishi Evo 4 disks and calipers. The car will be undriveable!!!!!

Cheers men

Oracle.
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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samual
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Post by samual »

LOve the video.

You should do more. And the commentary is good I think. Let's us know what's doing.

Would like to fit an AFR gauge myself. Might have to do some home work in how to install.

Nice work.
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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw »

dude, you need to learn how to use a camera.....

and get a proper article written up!

C
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rosscotron
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sweet

Post by rosscotron »

good work buddy vid was great i think i wanna come down and do some work with ya.

keep it up
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baz
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Post by baz »

Ease up C!...His old :P
My old exa I created from granny spec to a neat little BRIGHT car: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3903

Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart »

Keep your comments on topic Forcefail. The topic is Pulsar GX turbo.
Or just dont comment at all yer?

Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
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