Tassuperkarts GX Turbo (Updated again!)

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photoglossy
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Post by photoglossy » Mon Oct 14, 2013 4:08 am

BUGGER!

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amraks
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Post by amraks » Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:09 pm

Thought about you using that blue shell I had.

But just remembered the body has been cut when we tired to take the scutter panel out.
Amraks

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Sun Oct 20, 2013 7:50 pm

LOL Thats cool M8.
There are plenty of Atmo shitters around I can swap bits over to rather than a full-on swap over.
I dont want to start from scratch!!!!!

Shall see soon enough!!!!

Cheers
E
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RIP. "The Rat"

Post by tassuperkart » Sun Dec 22, 2013 3:12 pm

Well gents
The time came to make a descision.. In the end, a descision was made for me and the dear old GX/ET shitter "The Rat" is no more.

Ive decided to scrap it and swap over all my goodies into the wifes ET which I have now inherited.

So, altho the Rat will be gone, it wont be forgotten and in fact live on in spirit wrapped up in the bodywork of the new ET.
I do have a grand plan for the future that may see it live again but more on that another time.

Aurevior old friend. Had some great times and dealt severlely with rice over so many years!!!!!!

Image

Very soon, the Rat legend will live on wrapped up in this car:

Image

Oracle
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tassuperkart
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The Job Begins

Post by tassuperkart » Sun Dec 29, 2013 10:15 am

So yesterday i began the conversion.
I removed all the brakes and suspension setups from both cars and loaded the ET with my big brakes and good suspension packages.

Image


I have to do bit of clearancing of the shock cover tube as the r31 caliper hits it for some reason on the new car.....?

The ET was fitted with Pedders gas shocks but it always rode so much softer in the backend than the Rat, so using my "shock dyno" (Just pulling and pushing... hah) it seems that the ET shocks must be the Comfort Gas option and the Rats are the Sport Gas. They are quite different in both bump and rebound.
I gave the car a run with the softer option and the Kings "Lows" springs and.. well, the jury is out on that.
Its quite compliant on the back end but the dampening does not match that well with the stiffer springing.
Especially so with the Kings "Lows" and the Koni adjustables up front.

So I think ill change the shocks over to balance the entire show up and reduce suspension "bottoming" which was happening quite a bit.

I also rolled the rear quarter lips to allow for the different wheels.

More later.

Oracle[/img]
Last edited by tassuperkart on Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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amraks
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Post by amraks » Sun Dec 29, 2013 3:25 pm

You might be able to help me with this Ev

AE82 corolla how would you roll the rear quarter lips?

As I have a mate that wants to do it.
Amraks

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Post by tassuperkart » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:24 pm

Dude, 3 ways. You can lift the car a bit, shove some pipe between the tyre and the guard lip and roll the car back and forwards.
I have done this.
You can use a decent lump hammer and carefully beat the lip up. Ive done this as well but its a little easy to miss and damage the flare if not careful.
I done this AND damaged the flare!!
Have a pro guard roller do it for you.

Oracle.
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Post by tassuperkart » Mon Dec 30, 2013 8:08 pm

I ended up changing the shocks over to the set i knew best.
I just didnt like the soft arsed back end in comparison to the front which altho compliant, but still pretty firm.

An issue I ran into was part of the R31 brake caliper hitting the dust tube on the shocks.
So i removed them and using my exhaust pipe cutter, I cut about 50mm off the tube.
This leave the shaft covered during normal driving and only exposes the shaft at full droop which doesn't happen too often with low springs!!

Mysterious clunking in backend solved!!!!!!!!
Next job is to begin removal of the engine and transmission and to fabricate a new rear engine mount.
I made a start on the mount.
Its a generic engine mount and i have to fabricate a new bracket to bolt to the floor pan.
I have fabbed up a mule out of lightweight material just to sort angles and position.
Here:

Image

It seems to fit up nicely so might fabricate one up out of decent material. this one is very light material and will bend with some decent thumping.

Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Post by tassuperkart » Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:42 pm

dropped the engine and transmission yesterday.
The job is made so easy with my hoist up and running.

Image

Everything from underneath the car is gone and now its time to extract the custom engine wiring loom and other interior stuff before the shell is dropped down and the last of the panels an doors are pulled off.

I did a small change today to the existing dissie ignition system on the new car.
The car has always been a little ratty around idle and the operation of the tacho is pretty inconsistent.
I removed the stock ignition PTU (trigger) and installed a Bosch "008" module.
The 008 is a "smart" module and decides its own dwell time based on conditions it sees.

Image

While running a few multimeter tests, I found that the power supply to the coil was seeing a 1.2 volt drop compared to battery voltage......! This cant be helping things so i just temporarily wired in a power relay direct off a battery +ive feed and the engine is now smoother and more consistent off idle. Remarkably so! I wouldnt have thought it would have made such a difference.

More later
Oracle
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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:02 pm

Lastly today, I fitted up a new fuel pump.
I did a pressurer test on the original job and by pinching off the return line, best pressure I could get was about 60psi.... not happy with that.

So, grabbed the poump I pulled out of the V6 ute after its conversion to a Bosch 040.

Its looks a little ghetto buut fits up ok and I just used a stainless hoseclamp to squeeze in the legs of the fuel pump cradle a few mm to clamp the pump in position.
A little massaging of the return pipe was needed to direct the return fuel away from the pickup screen which sits off to one side of this pump.
Fortunately, the swirl pot in the tank is offset to the pump center which gives just enough room for the intake screen... big yay!

I dont care what it looks like so long as it works.

Here:

Image

I need to do voltage drop tests on it but ran out of light so ill look into that tomoz.

Oracle
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Post by 15exa » Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:16 pm

nice

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tassuperkart
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Tassuperkarts ET

Post by tassuperkart » Sat Feb 15, 2014 7:51 pm

OK
the ET got a new set of front boots and a wheel alignment today. i put on some Bok Choi 2015x45x16's. they look good and stick like shit to a sheet for 90- bucks apiece fitted so im happy with them.

The mods to the sump with a low oil return from the turbo are done and I fitted the sump back onto the engine today.
The extra low turbo manifold places the turbo drain at the same height as the stock return into the block and oil backing up into the turbo and smoking going on on throttle off down hills.

I made a complete new return setup off the bottom of the turbo and brazed a fitting I made to the sump just above the windage tray inside the sump. gives a nice easy drop for the oil to drain back.

Here:

Image

Image

The big T28/TD04 hybrid turbo is a bit slow spooling for my liking and makes the engine a little lazy.
I have decided to make up a sort of hybrid turbo using a T25g front cover/wheel (AR-.80) and a T25 back cover.
The T25g uses an AR-.64 back housing and the plain T25 an AR.49 back housing.
This should get a slightly faster spooling T25g but still not restrict the hot side of the engine too much at higher revs.

Here:
Image

Got to drill and tap the front cover to accommodate the wastegate can and a final fitup on the motor to check for correct alignment.

Next job is to separate the ET engine loom from the wiper/washer wiring and the engine transplant begins.

More later.
Oracle
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Post by tassuperkart » Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:49 pm

I finished off the assembly of the "hybrid" T25/T25g turbo and its all back in place. Of course, its the little things which take so much time!!!

The oil supply adapter on the other turbo used a large banjo bolt and a hard tube with an AN fitting brazed onto the end.

The T25 uses a male tubenut arrangement with a single flare on the end so i had to fabricate up another adapter out of an old turbo oil hardline and the AN fitting off the banjo setup.

Here the new oil feed during the turbo clocking exercise:

Image

I also made up a replacement hardline for the inner watercooling line out of an old 300zxtt turbo I had floating around. Just needed to be bolted on and "massaged" a bit into place. Makes the task of connecting waterlines a breeze now!

Here:

Image

More later
Oracle
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Post by tassuperkart » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:18 pm

With the engine done and out of the way its time to fit up the 600 x 300 x 75 cooler into the ET.

I simply transplanted the simple little brackets from the old car and the cooler slots straight in:

Image

Image

The GX has different (single) reo bar brackets so couldnt use them. Notching the is a pain in the arse with the double brackets in place on the ET. I cut as much as I could with the angle grinder and finished it off with the big die grinder. Cant be seen anyway but I kept the notches as neat as I could anyway!

I also notched the radiator support panel right out against the guards to allow the piping to pass thru that gap into the wheel arch area.
The piping then turns into the engine bay thru holes cut in the plastic splash guards on both sides

Like this:

Image

I need to make a support from the bottom of the bonnet catch down to the lower radiator x-member.
Currently the catch assembly is attached directly to the top of the cooler with a simple bracket and some decent tek screws. It works but im not happy wit that arrangement.
Id forgotten about it in the GX. Happily, there is a shit tonne of room in the front compared to the GX to fabricate a simple brace down in front of the cooler.

More later
Oracle
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Post by BennyET » Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:13 am

Great build to follow, can't help but check back for updates everyday.
Can't wait for vids 8)
I understand the need for conformity. Without a concise set of rules to follow we would probably all have to resort to common sense.

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