Tassuperkarts GX Turbo (Updated again!)

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Post by tassuperkart » Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:06 pm

I got the Adaptronic ecu and set about sorting it all out.
Annoying issue was that the loom had been patched into the previous cars stock loom and had simply been cut out of the car leaving about 400mm of loom left.

So I had to patch it into the existing loom in the car. This is a somewhat modified stock loom that i had added some extra wiring to and made some other changes to suit my setup.
Not the way i wanted to do it but to hell with paying almost 200 bucks for another 2 meter loom and having to start from scratch. Its just Im not keen on various colour changes in looms and legions of solder joints.......

Armed with a couple of pages of old notes and hand drawn schematics from the previous Microtech install, along with a Microtech and Adaptronic wiring schematic, I sat down and worked out on paper which wires get spliced to what.
Reeeesonably straightforward but i had to add additional wiring for the resistive TPS, idle solenoid valve and MAP sensor.

Im using a Bosch 3 wires solenoid valve which is a common type of external idle valve which makes setting idle speed a breeze. In the Adaptronic config software, I can simple enter my desired idle speeds at *blah* temperature and the ECU does the rest. It will maintain preset idle speed at all times.

All in all about 25 solder joints backed up with heatshrink tube. This represents about half of what will eventually be wired up and sufficient to get it up and running but later on a lot of extra accessory wiring will have to be done to get master and secondary wheel speed sensors, clutch switches, TPS switches and so-on to get the really godd stuff working. More on that another time.

Next job was to run thru the entire system probing for any errors. In some cases, wiring colours change up to 3 times so its quite easy to get things wrong.
Another trap for young playes with the Adaptronic is the way the injector outputs are wired.
On the diagramme, they appear as:
Inj1
Inj2
Inj3
Inj4
Its very easy to just wire them directly to each injector in apparent order.. wrong!
The injector outputs trigger sequentially from 1 to 4 but firing order is 1342 so the wiring actually has to go according to engine firing order:
Inj1 to Injector 1
Inj2 to injector 3
Inj3 to injector 4
Inj4 to injector 2.

I use a light jumper lead directly off the battery +ive and poke the small alligator clamp directly into eac terminal/socket/pin and then probe back directly at the ECU plugs with a test light and armed with my trusty wiring diagrammes.
Time consuming but worthwhile in the long run.

Only fault I found was that when i had originally made the sub-loom for the EDIS, I had incorrectly written down the order for the ingition outputs and so now the coil pairs are reversed.
No biggie tho as its a simple matter of swapping plug leads and voilah!

Next task is to power the loom from the key and make sure that power appears at the various points that require 12v. Eveything tests out good.

I ran out of time tonight so next task when i have time is to reconnect everything and get the ECU powered up, load a working config file and crank it over to check for base ignition timing. its pretty easy in the Adaptronic as you just set the dizzy midway in its adjustment lock the timing at 10 Deg BTDC and just add or subtract degrees on the laptop untill 10 degrees happens with the timing light!
Set once and never touch it again.

Assuming all is well, power up the injectors and the fuel pump and crank the fucker into life...

THEN to harder part begins!!!!!!! However, Im tuning this time in Volumetric efficiency mode (VE) and I just enter the engine capacity, injector flow and fill the entire tuning table out at around 85% and away it goes!!!!!!!!
So much simple than entering guestimates of fuel dwell times in Ms's..... mah!
Enable Rapid Learn mode in the adaptive tuning sewction and just go for a drive! Its almost childsplay using VE tuning scheme.

Cheers
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Post by tassuperkart » Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:14 pm

Finished all my sanity tests and, its always a bit of a "hold your breath" moment when powering up an entirely new install, but... here we go.... so powered up the ECU. No smoke...is a good sign and all the diagnostic indicators on the ECU appeared normal/green...another yay!

Next was to connect the laptop and setup a config. file for it.
Fortunately, the designer of the Adaptronic began his ECU design career on an EXA turbo so a ready done config was already in the tuning software.
I had to modify it slightly to account for wasted spark ignition.
The previous config was for a V6 Magna so there were a lot of sundry parameters that had to be altered to suit the Pullstart.
However a basic tuning file was there which would serve as a startup tune.

So, next is to plug in the entire loom (wait for sparks and smoke....none!) and calibrate the analogue sensors.
Only the water temp did not appear and I simply hadnt plugged it in.
Even the resistive TPS was wired the correct way which is a bonus!!! Its a simple thing of just stand on the throttle and hit "Learn" and back to throttle off and hit "Learn" and voila!!!!!
I used the trusty MightVac to suck down to 25"Hg vac to calibrate the MAP sensor buit the default asettings in the ECU were close enough so leave it.

The ECU is equipped with an injector and ignition test function and even displays the injector voltage and amperage waveform in a small graph and all appears well.
Ignition test revealed that I had actually gotten the ingition channel wiring correct so my original notes from the Microtech install were wrong. Cool! Nice strong spark as well. Ahhh those Hyundai coils.. they are like flame throwers!!!

In the tuning field, i loaded a straight 80% VE map across the board, turn the key and the engine sprang to life immediately!!!!!!!!!!

THIS I like!
I spent a leisurely 30 minutes fine tuning an idle and light throttle in open loop and thats where I left it for now!!
The engine settles to a smooth and reliable idle with that slightly angry lumpiness to it... damn it sounds tough!!! Very encouraging!

Road tuning tomorrow to set up a basic open loop fuel map.
After that, I need to interface the AEM WBo2 with the Adaptronic. I have to make a lead out of an old Serial cable and let full adaptive tuning do its thing... gotta love technology!!!!! Goodbye Microtech...forever!

The Oracle is a happy chappie!!!
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Post by tassuperkart » Sat Nov 17, 2012 8:48 pm

Spent a while on the road doing a basic road tune. The engine pulls cleanly and the AFR's are remarkably stable but I notice some strange fuel behaviour which reared its head when I first fitted the Bosch 036 injectors.....

If I tune around 3500 rpm to get a basic fuel table, the injectors lean out quite a lot above this rpm and richen up a lot below....More so on lighter throttle...............
The old Microtech with its agricultural tuning scheme had a lot of trouble handling this.
I can cover this with the Adaptronic but instead of a (usually) planar (flat) fuel map, meaning each loadpoint, say 60kpa, will have same/very similar injector dwell time regardless of the rpm. With these in jectors, each load point climbs quite a bit in dwell time from low to high rpm..... very strange to see this amount of rpm based increase in fuelling.
Its as if Im seeing a drop in fuel pressure as the rpm rises but I know this is not the case............

Newhoo, I also interfaced the AEM WBo2 with the ECU via a serial connection. I had to make a lead up out of an old serial(DB9) cable and it fires up straight away as the adaptronic software has a setting for the AEM WBo2.
With this working now, I configured the ECU into "Rapid Learn" adaptive mode. I just specify what mixtures I want in a table and the ECU compares what it sees from the WBo against the lookup table and applies corrections to, and re-writes the fuelling tables right in front of your eyes. Its quite cool to watch it do its thing!

Its a matter of now driving the car around varying the loads and rpm as much as possible so as many loadpoints are visited and adjusted. Then its a matter of looking at the tuning table and adjusting the loadpoints that have not been visited by hand and voilah! One pretty reasonable tune!

Once thats done then the ECU is set into "Slow Converge" adaptive mode and the fuelling is adjusted far more finely over a longer time.

I also fitted a Bosch 3 wire idle valve to control idle speed over all conditions.In closed loop idle mode, the ECU takes full control of idle speed against an rpm lookup table.
There is an entry for every 5Deg.C so cold idle speed is set at 1200rpm and smoothly slows to 1000rpm hot idle.
The idle valve opens fully on startup to assist easier starting as well.
The hoses are 19mm ID so the valve admits a lot of air and works well as a kind of faux anti-stall.

Its all getting there! Damn I love playing with this stuff!

Oracle
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Post by Damo » Sat Nov 17, 2012 9:30 pm

Who says you can't teach an old fruit new tricks! :D

I know exactly how you feel about the VE tuning, I will never own another ECU which doesn't tune by VE. After spending even just a little time with 'it' it is hard to imagine tuning without it.

Great stuff E, as you will, keep us posted.

BTW, what sort of duty cycle are those bad boys pulling at full noise?


Also. for the funny buggers around 3500, have you data logged to see if the battery voltage dips? Does it do the same with locked ignition timing? Have you tried possibly batch firing the injectors to see if the issue is related to how the injectors are pulsed.

Damo
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Post by tassuperkart » Sat Nov 17, 2012 9:52 pm

I should have mentioned that Im powering the injectors with a "buck/boost" inverter power supply fixed at 14.5 v. So any latency issues dont exist.
The injectors "see" 14.5v even when cranking so i dont even have anything entered into the latency table!!!!!!!!
Its not so much anything funky happening at 3500rpm. I just use that as a starting point for road tuning is all!!

Ummm... I dont know what they (036's) are doing at WOT Damo!! IIRC I have something like 125% @ 2 bar.....Without converting that figure back to time I could only guess.
BTW, they are your old ones!

Oracle
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Post by Damo » Sun Nov 18, 2012 4:26 am

tassuperkart wrote:I should have mentioned that Im powering the injectors with a "buck/boost" inverter power supply fixed at 14.5 v. So any latency issues dont exist.
The injectors "see" 14.5v even when cranking so i dont even have anything entered into the latency table!!!!!!!!
Its not so much anything funky happening at 3500rpm. I just use that as a starting point for road tuning is all!!

Ummm... I dont know what they (036's) are doing at WOT Damo!! IIRC I have something like 125% @ 2 bar.....Without converting that figure back to time I could only guess.
BTW, they are your old ones!

Oracle
Yep, I knew you were driving the injectors with alternate power source, what about the fuel pump?
I was thinking total duty cycle of the injectors rather than VE. Seeing that the Adaptronic is similar to Autronic, I would imagine you would have a 'monitor all' screen which would give a bazzillion parameters to look at with injector duty being one.
What about something like injector end angle?


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y

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Post by tassuperkart » Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:32 am

Ahhh I see. EOI. I dont have feature on this ECU. The 420c is an ageing design now and has been superceded with the 440,s and the 1280 ECU's which both have EOI tweaking.
Also, I have a mass of live info available on the ECU data screen but injector "duty" is not one of them. I only have injector opening time (in Ms) available to me and its a little hard to look at it on the small display while holding the little animal in a straight line!!!!!!!! I need an assistant for that but Ill get back to you on that!

Fuel pump. Ummm,
I dont have much of a reason to consider fuel pump wiring as its all a dedicated/one-off install. I did it pretty much right to begin with altho the fool pump is a stock intank and doubtless getting tired but at this stage Im still using stock9ish) boost so it should be fine in the short term.
I think its certainly worthwhile to check it tho just in case. Strange thing is the issue seems to be more noticeable at lower throttle settings which would see the fuel pump unloaded by, say 7 to 10 psi........

Ive posted up on this issue on the Adaptronic forum and there are some seriously smart guys lurking there who may shed extra light on this.

Oracle
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Post by tassuperkart » Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:27 am

I didnt take many pix as an ECU retrofit is not particularly interesting visually but you might be interested in the Bosch 3 wire solenoid type idle valve (often incorrectly called an idle motor) install.

Firstly, heres the "business" end of the installation....hahahah! Oh well, its not exactly finished!
The 2 serial cables are the connections for the laptop and the UEGO controller. Later Adaptronics have a USB connection.... mebbe one day in the future!

Image

My first reaction is to simply leave the install the way it is but...welll.... I bought this adaptronic off a m8 in Melb and he had patched the adaptronic loom into his cars OEM loom so I was forced to do the same.
Im not particularly happy about doing that as as mentione before, the loom in this car already has been modded when the Microtech was installed and there are several wire colour changes along the way in there to account for......
Newhoo the completed loom is just long enough to install the ECU in the stock location under the seat so thats where it will go...... Eventually!
All the additional wires twirled up under the ECU are digital signal in and outs and auxiliary function wires.
A lot of these will come into play when get around to installing the wheel speed sensors, clutch switch and so-on to invoke launch, traction, anti-lag and fly-by-wire throttle control at a later date.
heres a pic of the FBW throttle body. Its a 65mm bore FBW TB off a Mitsubishi Magna V6.
Just a typical 6 wire stepper motor so easy to control with the Adaptronic.

Image

I recently picked up a pair of hybrid T28/TDo4 turbos and Im going to see if I can have the front seal modified for a pull-thru type.
The throttle body will be mounted directly to the FRONT of the compressor. This will make BOV's redundant.
There is a slight argument against creating a "soft" throttle response but i dont subscribe to that theory. Time will tell.

Heres a pix of one of the Hall Effect wheel speed sensors Ill be using.
I paid about 10 bucks each for these. They are threaded on the outside and sealed against dirt and water. makes setting up wheel speed a doddle!

Here against a rule for scale:

Image

Now, just in case, I make NO apologies for the ghetto appearing installation. I dont much give a toss what an install looks like, rather how it performs!
Additionally, I prefer to use as much second hand stuff as I have on hand ratted from other cars, wrecks and so-on. I live in the sticks and a "quick drive" for a couple of bits and bobs is a very long drive!

Heres the idle valve in position:

Image

I placed the idle air return into where the old EGR valve would live on a pollution engine.
This is where I originally had the PCV valve return plumbed.
I did this sos to ensure nice and equal air/oil mist distribution to each runner without having to drill into the plenum necessitating a plenum pull.
I used the existing hoses that came with a couple of different idle valves I have. I fabricated up a pair of Tee's to plumb the PCV valve back into the vac side of the idle valve.
The valve supply is tee'd into the air bypass hose that feeds the stock aux air bypass valve. Looks like crap but saves me having to weld in and extra air fitting onto the boost pipe in front of the TB.

In open loop mode, meaning the ECU has no control over the valve other than a fixed amount of effort, its quite a trick job to get the settings right along with setting the cold idle mixture settings.
The temp climbs quite quickly thru the temp correction maps only 5 Deg apart and the fingers do a merry dance on the keyboard chasing both idle speed and idle mixture settings while keeping an eye on the EGO reading..........!
Its important to get the open loop efforts right to begin with BEFORE invoking closed loop idle control (where the ECU takes total control of engine speed at asll times) inevet of some issue where the ECU will default back to open loop.

The same can be said for getting a reasonable road fuel tune in before moving to closed loop control.
See, once a good fuel map is arrived at, the ECU is taken out of ADAPTIVE closed loop mode and into normal closed loop mode.
here, the ECU will look at the fueling tables based on whatever running conditions are going on at the time and compare the cureent EGO's from the WBo2 and compare them against the AFR lookup table where I specify what AFR's I want to see at whatever throttle/map setting.
The ECU will make fuelling adjustments around the current load cell to achieve desired AFR's. Now this is all and well unless something happens to the ECU to take it out of closed loop mode such as an EGO fault or whatever in which case the ECU will simply fuel the car based on the main fueling table and will not apply any corrections based on EGO......get all that?
Bottom line is that if the table has a bad (lean) area that was not picked up to begin with in early road tuning, and it happens to be in a power area, the engine might grenade when previouisly the ECU was compensating for a bad tune.

It is not considered correct to leave the ECU permanently in ADAPTIVE mode tho. reasons dont matter but suffices to say it can lead to tuning dramas down the line!!!

Fun Fun Fun!!

Oracle
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Post by tassuperkart » Tue Nov 20, 2012 4:59 pm

So far so good.
I have gotten my cold running corrections pretty good now with a steady 11.5 to 11.8 afr when dead cold to almost warmed up while holding a steady 1200rpm slowing to about 1050rpm when warm.
The characteristics of this camshaft make idle speed below 1000rpm just too inconsistent even using closed loop idle speed control.

I still have a small issue with the motor starting up from dead cold and dying off over the first 5 to 8 seconds. Its no biggie as its a simple post start enrichment setting but obviously, I only get one shot at this per day so its a fair amount of guesswork. A glaring limitation of the 420c is that PSE works at all temps so over enrichening afterstart to get a completely clean and robust cold start can result in some doughyness and bobbling when hot due to over enrichment for the hot conditions so a compromise has to be found.

I was confident enough with the installation and tune to take it to work this week.
I live about a 50 minute drive away which is a combination of hilly country highway, city crawl and open freeway...JUUUSSST the ticket for adaptive efi tuning!!!
On light throttle and cruise i see a steady 13.5 to 14 afr in and around the (so far) tuned load points.
Idle afrs are a consistent 11.8 to 12 afr. I cannot get the idle afr's any higher than this with this camshaft tho. Sneak into the high 12's and the engine goes "hard" slows down and becomes unreliable.... way it is.

WOT runs are showing mid 10 afr's which is way too rich but I have been sneaking them down by hand as it is very hard to settle the engine into a steady state of revs and high boost/load to allow the ECU to make a meaningful adjustment.
I just make a note of whats happening and select the loadpoints by hand and make manual adjustments so no biggie.
My lower/mid boost afr's are now sailin g around 12 even and the upper boost still lurking around 10.8 so just a bit more playing around will have them where Im aiming for around the 11.2 to 11.5afr range.

Another task which takes a bit of time is to get Predicted Map (accellerator enrichment) setup correctly.

There is a lookup table where you have to determine a MAP figure based on throttle position and rpm.
Ordinarily, accellerator pump enrichment is determined by the rate of change of map (manifold pressure). The ecu see a sudden drop in manifold pressure so assumes that the throttle has been "blipped".
When opening the throttle, there is always a slight lag between what the manifold is actually doing and what the ECU is actually seeing which results in the dreaded engine stumble or cough between gears, so what predicted map does is when opening the throttle, it ignores MAP changing as a method of enrichening and looks at throttle position V's rpm. The ecu consults this table and uses the map figues in this table that best match the throttle position that it would EXPECT to see and so makes decisions on accellerator pump based on what it sees in the lokup table.
Its a simple and elegant solution to throttle pump enrichment, which can be surprisingly tricky to get right and is often setup extremely rich. This covers up a variety of tuning sins but is one of the worst offenders contributing to poor fuel consumption.
It does take time to get the table filled out correctly.
Holding 4000rpm @0, 5, 15, 25 and 50% throttle position at 1000, 2000, 4000 and 6000rpm ranges and then peering the map figures on the laptop on the passengers seat while keeping the car somewhere on the road and writing it down is quite trick on your own!!!!!!
I learnt how to do this very quickly in the Ute Of Death as that thing makes over 300Hp @ 4000rpm at 50% throttle!!!!!!!!!

Ive been researching setting up "Boost Thru The Gears" control where the ECU sets the boost levels depending on what gear the car is in.
Its all done at logic level and I only have to fit a solenoid regulator valve to the wastegate line, a single wheel speed sensor. Make a few simple changes at software level and do some road speed learning and VOILAH!
Main thing is to find a boost can with the lowest boost setting I can reliably run as minimum boost is whatever the wasegate is setup at.

There is no way the car will hold low gear even at as low as 4psi but a short shift to 2nd and 4-5psi should just about be right I reckon.
The thing is only running 8psi now and its seriously struggling for grip in 3rd with the low 4.1 diff.

Im looking forwards to playing with this and once traction control has been interfaced with boost control, it should be one hell of a little wepon to drive flatout and not worry about mad wheespinning and having to peddle it. Peddaling a turbo car to maintain some form of traction just kills straighline speed!

More as I go.

Oracle
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Post by tassuperkart » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:23 am

The adaptive tuning procerss has been going well. I let the ecu do corrections at variuous load points and basically "fill in the blanks" visually by looking at the 3D maps.
Its nigh on impossible to get the ECU to correct all loadpoints without a dyno.
This ECU was bought offen a friend and was fitted to a Mitsubishi quad cam V6 and i configged it for the E15 and used his fuel maps, comverted to VE to establish a baseline run map.
This is all well and good cept the ECU was writing strange looking corrections into the VE tables that id not expect to see.

Loosely speaking, most fuel maps will appear kinda flat line (planar) and the durations will increase with load and possibly climb a little with rpm.
I temd to load in a deafult increase in VE as the revs rise. Its kind of an insurance policy!
Newhoo, there were rather strange dips and peaks in the tuning that i could not explain.....

newhoo,I was giving a M8 a demonstration of the Adaptronic tuning interface and while hunting thru some of the more obscure corection table i found some very odd looking corrections i would not expect to see.......

I reduced all these back to zero and after a quick run in neutral all sorts of issues cropped up withg the ECU attempting to correct previous corrections....... chrisst!

So basically all my on-road tuning was rendered useless as these other corrections had been messing with the adaptive tuning's head..... Poor bloody thing had been spending most of its awake time trying to correct corrections!!!!!!!

newhoo, another 1 hour drive back up to work and a much clearer picture is emerging with the 3D fuelling table appearing more or less as Id predict...

This just goes to show how easy it is to make dramas when using S/H stuff...
Even oh great one oracle can come unstuck by not thoroughly checking, and ZEROING various corrections.......

Now, next task is to fit smaller 375cc injectors from a CA18det i was given. Currently Im using Bosch 036's which were flowed at 440cc.
This might appear a bit of a headfuck as surely it would render my tuning obsolete...? Why do you ask??
Well, at the boost levels Im going to electronically set, 15psi, I dont NEED 440cc's. 375's will be just the ticket with a certain amount of headroom left If I decide to boost up further but this is well unlikely!!!!
Also, the smaller the injectors the much coarser is the tuning resolution and so easier to tune, particularly at very low injector opening times!

Remember, Im tuning in VE (volumetric efficiency) mode so all I need to do is enter the new injector flow rate into a dialogue box, hit enter and drive on!!!!!!!!!!! The ECU does the rest!
C'est la vie!!!

Oracle
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Post by tassuperkart » Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:31 pm

Fitted up the new turbo setup.
Its a hybrid T28/Tdo4 Fitted up here:

Image

I used an old compressor snout adapter I had from the old T25g. The pipe size was too large for the ally piping I have now so i just jammed some smaller pipe down its throat and welded it. Painted black hides the horror!!!!!! Fukkit, Gotta love ghetto style!

Like almost every hybrid job, The turbo had to be "clocked". So to make life easier, i just pulled the entire manifold off the engine, clamped the fucker in the vise and went from there.

Image

Curiously, the oil inlet is a different thread to most garrets and is UNF rather than a fine metric thing. The turbos came with some A-N fittings but once the turebo was clocked, i could not use them.
So, using an old water banjo and a UNF bolt I found on the floor, a simple Banjo fitting was fashioned up. I drilled a 3 mm hole up thru the bolts bum and cross drilled the shank where the banjo sits. I love improvisation!!!
I had a new braided -3 AN oil line made up so i brazed a steel AN fitting onto the banjo tube:

Image

And, of course, the wastegate can needed fettling to get it in a good position.
Once the compressor housing was rotated, the can sat right at a fatter part of the housing... dint it! So i had to modify the can bracketry to create some extra clearance.
Once the final position was arrived at drill and tap some mounting holes in the housing flange here:

Image

So, on to final assembly and look what i got!!!!!!:

Image

Some nice new HKS branded cans!!! Adjustable as well. Minimum boost is now 9 psi which way overpowers 2nd gear and results in some wheelspinning in 3rd with the grippy 205x 45 x 16's

The engine is far less willing and boost holds quite low untill about 3000rpm when things get pretty lively. However, its very smooth and driveable.
After that, its just a seemingly never-ending hard pull to the 6500 rpm soft limiter.
One major drama that has resulted is a major oil smoking from this turbo when on an extended engine overrun od idling.
This was a slight and infrequent issue on the old T25 but is an annoying everyday occurrence on this turbo.

Its more my installation than a turbo problem with the oil drain actually having to go slightly uphill into the original oil drain.
On the top pix, you can clearly see the oil return in the stocl position. This turbo manifold your term a "Super Low" mount.

I meant to modify the sump for a low oil return while I was building but i plain forgot....my... fekkin bad!
Newhoo, i have a plan and ill add a new low oil return into the sump while still on the car. Details and pix on how I do that once its done.

Cheers
Oracle
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Post by etking » Fri Dec 21, 2012 8:56 am

must be atleast an extra 10KW with the HKS actuator? :D
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Post by tassuperkart » Fri Dec 21, 2012 6:43 pm

Shame its not red eh? be even more then!!!

Oracle
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Bashed Th GX-T..Phooey

Post by tassuperkart » Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:43 pm

I backd the GX Pullstart into a guardrail other morning and punched the arse end in.
Was having a bit of fun with an R33!!
Went around the outside of him and in the pre-dawn dark, just touched the now sliding rears on the damp on the outside of the corner.....ooops!

45Klm corners at 120Klm +..... oh well, I was having some fun!!!!!

Around it went. I actually PASSED the Skrine completely sideways, just like a Boss, and then slid neatly around directly in front of him without touching. Slid down the road backwards barely inches from his frontend, I could see the whites of his eyes in my headlights so i reckon he saw mine....and then the front swung back around and it back into the Armco.

Wasnt too big a hit but its punched the rear quarter in about 120mm.
tailights and center panel/garnish survived surprisingly but the panelwork has been well stuffed in and wont come out without some serious pulling.
Ill drive it over between some trees and give it a decent pull with the chainbock and see how much comes out.

Image

Im tempted to trash the car and wait until wifey decides to buy herself a new car and Ill inherit the ET and just swap out all my goodies.

C'est La Vie!

Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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baz
Posts: 1298
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:02 pm
Location: Hobart / Tasmania

Post by baz » Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:31 am

You sir are out of control!
My old exa I created from granny spec to a neat little BRIGHT car: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3903

Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute

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