Timmzy's ET

The place to introduce yourself, post photos and specs of your car.
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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy » Tue Jun 05, 2012 11:32 pm

What TAS??

You mean to tell me that my freebie wheel alignment because I was prepared to put a sticker on the car was no good? Surely not!!!

Looks like Ill be getting the tape measure out tomorrow night....

I am reluctant to change anything before the race on Sunday Tas......damn you. But thank you still....dam it.

I am breaking my 5 day park ferme before race rule :)

I do wonder why the initial measurement was -2.0 neg camber on RHS when I took it in and -1.5 when it came out??

Callum - I need your master brain for toe adjustment. So it would be thread pitch of tie rods to get mm adjust. Then creating a triangle from center point of bearing to centerpoint of ball joint. That would be one side of the triangle and then SOHCAHTOA to find the angle?? I haven't done this since high school....

I have to get this toe correct before sundsay. There is $700 worth of rubber resting on this little bet :shock:

Darren.
Race it.

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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw » Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:16 am

Better to use old fashion string and chalk than math this time I think....

I theory you could calculate the thread pitch to wheel angle ratio, but accuracy would depend on the distance from pivot centre and that would be hard to measure correct. That error could have a lareg impact on outcome.

String/bar/beam plus marker/chalk/tipex.....and a tape measure.
use lasers if you got'em!
Flat concrete floor

Theres instructions in the manual and a lot on the web.

C

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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy » Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:42 am

^^Yep I think that's going to be the go...
Race it.

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Wed Jun 06, 2012 4:42 pm

Shit, this is a race car. You can get away with murder.
Its a road car getting maximum mileage is where alignments actually matter.
You always going to feather off the outside edges on any tyre with a road or near road alignment and 2 degrees of camber is nothing. Looking at your pix, your car is pitching diagonally forwards and outwards with quite heavy lean angles so unless ur prepared to get the car down a bit, up the springrate or increase antiroll on the front then lots of camber will be needed.
The downside to this might be some loss of traction in a straight line, brakes and power as more weight is moved onto a narower effective contact patch.

C has it on the nose. Stringline the bastard. Cheap, quick and easy! EVERY race team does it with strings and a level. caster is not so easy but ive found caster can be largely ignored.

Quick, just file those bracket holes out by hand, give urself about 5 degrees either side If you can and tighten up, stringline the wheels with a couple of mm's of toe and away you go!!!!
Even just set toe with a tape measure across the tread lines will be fine.

Or leave it for now.

However, dont expect too much of those eccentric adjusters tho. Look at the length of the "arm" the are acting on.
Out of my arse say, 600mm from top to strut to control arm pivot height and you swing it in and out by 10mm... Its a tiny change at the end of the day!!!
If you loosen the strut to upright bolts, there at least a degree in that alone!!! File out the hole 5mm and hellaflush for you!!!!!!!!

Cheers M8

E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw » Wed Jun 06, 2012 5:33 pm

Those eccentric bolts have about 2 degrees in them and they work relative to each other, so only about 150mm. If you use two you could easily double the adjustment - not that I'd recommend that...might end up a bit weak,

The strut top adjusters have a long arm and the ones I put in the Starion got me about 2.5 degree. That hole was bigger, but the bearing had a neoprene ring so the inner section was much bigger than a solid spherical would need. So you'd probably get about 2 from them on an N12 as well.

Moving the lower bolt hole isn't a bad idea. Then you could have 2 degrees around -2 deg, giving a range of -4 to 0. plenty! Now if your bothered by the eccentric and brazed hole we could get some plates laser cut to stitch over and enlarged hole.....

C

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:08 pm

You could expand on that if you went looking to find some eccentric adjusters and welded them in place.
Amount of camber change would be immense but fine adjustments likely impossible.
Im not a huge fan of them tho as they are very prone to creeping over time no matter how tight you rip them up.

L8r
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy » Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:15 am

All set - so to speak.

I got another wheel alignment this morning - last minute.

-2 and -1.8 camber on the front
-1 degree of toe OUT total on the front now. Not toe IN :)

It seems to now handle - on the quick drive home - much like it used to before I cocked around with the camber. Tramtracky but no understeer.

So we shall see. Going to go put in on the trailer now.
Plus check a couple of engine related thingo's.

Hopefully the rain holds off. Clearing showers later in afternoon my arse more like "entering sandtraps, clearing armco late afternoon"

:shock:

Darren.
Race it.

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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw » Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:22 am

I was there yesterday and the track was slick....more like a drifting day.
Even a 2011 GTR drifting its way round.

Good luck

C

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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy » Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:12 pm

Yes Callum,

Well the first run was the only reasonably dry run, the rest were rubbish and there was a decent amount of sliding around. Although I must admit the dunlops are nice and progressive in the wet too.

However -- on the last lap of the 3rd session I lost boost and the strong smell of exhaust fumes ended my day. It appears all the chattering around in 2nd and 3rd gear while trying to get grip - loostened the turbo manifold bolts. Now this happens and that's fine, but it actually blew the metal gasket out of the back face.

So on the trailer and home.

It was a fun day and I got some good tyre pressure data off the first session. Optimal cold inflation temps for wet racing were: 26PSI in both rears and 27PSI front right and 28 front left. This got the rear running hot at 30PSI and the fronts running hot on 34PSI exactly. Which is what Michael from Stuckeys said would be optimal.

Camber and toe seemed to work OK I guess, but its hard to tell. Phillip Island will be the test for that, and now the race is on to fix the gasket before PI - fuck the suspension... fow now :)

A helpful friend of ours is getting me some coilovers, hopefully pick them up next weekend.

darren.
Race it.

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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw » Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:26 am

the type that have been for sale on here a couple of times or a different name brand?

You got a PI run before the John Mott or planning to miss the Mott?

C

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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy » Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:04 am

Callum,

Nah the original blue ones from the group buy all those years ago...

No plan on running the john mott. I have PI run in 2 weeks and then 2 weeks after that is the John Mott - back at Sandown.

With the day off today I'll be disassembling today - getting part from Nissan tomorrow - shouldn't be too hard to get an RB25 turbo gasket.... but things happpen.

If I get it done this week I'll have next week for coilovers.

Darren.
Race it.

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poeticjustice88
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Post by poeticjustice88 » Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:00 am

Nissan up here on the gold coast dont have them, i had to go to MR Turbo Australia, (MTA) that are around the corner from me, exhaust shops didnt have them either funnily enough

Michael

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:20 am

Darren
Do you have a suitable flex join between the dump and the rest of the system.
To prevent any of this sort of thing, along with pulling the manifold studs clear out of the head, you need to bracket your dump securely to the moving exhaust bracket at the back of the engine.
This way, NO movement, or weight of the exhaust system transmits back up the the manifold/turbo.
The entire manifold/turbo/dump setup will rotate around as one with the engine.

Then fit your flex joint.

Hang the front of your exhaust system onto the original brackets which are located back around where the handbrake cable exits.
Almost every exhaust system I have seen has done away with this front hanger and the entire weight of the system just swings on the back of the dump. Not good.

This will prevent the weight of the exhaust system bending the flex join and the system hanging down behind the flex.

Make sure that the exhaust sytem is free to flop back and forwards but not up and down and a whole world of trouble free racing will be your friend.

Id also suggest basically solid rubber mounting your entire engine and transmission.
You need to allow the engine to flex somewhat in decent rubber bushes on the 4 points the engine is supported at tho.
Solid rubber top and gearbox mounts and remove those little shocks and make some struts with the biggest rubber bushes you can make fit.
I havent gotten around to this yet but its very high on the list.

Doing this tho you need to keep a very close eye on the back bracket where it bolts thru to the gearbox. These mounts are well known to loosen/break letting the back of the engine drop down.
Same for the front bracket which is just bolted to the radiator xmember. Im a little concerned that this xmember may crack as its a fairly long and unsupported beam.

Have fun.
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Timmzy
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Post by Timmzy » Mon Jun 11, 2012 6:17 pm

Tas,

Yeah thanks for that. There is a flex join after the dump before the flange. Its tied up on that rear mount, the rest of the exhaust is mounted up reasonably tightly - but I have a suspicion that something was moving around under there before the failure.

The front engine mount is solid bar and the rear is a N/A rubber jigga instead of the shockers. Its been racing this way for years with no problems. So I will be interested to get underneath and check it out.

Possibly a loose rear engine mount to gearbox, that's what it was last time. It certainly doesn't last long once there is a problem. The race track seems to sort it out rather quickly :)

Ah well fun times.....it was fucking freezing in the garage last night......
Got the gas bottle filled for the heater :) #1 job for today! lol

Darren.
Race it.

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Post by tassuperkart » Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:31 pm

Darren
Is your dump bracketed to the engine BEFORE the flex?
This is what matters.

The NA mount is nothing but a slotted stay and allows the engine to move/jump up and down at the back freely. The little shockie is a far better option as it at least damps something.
The NA thing does nothing but just limit the range of movement.

id still make some big as you can rubber mounts for the front and back mounts. Limits any movement but allows flex.

Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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