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Timmzy's ET
what turbo you getting jack??
Members Ride: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6786
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
Hi everyone,
Haven't posted for a while, been busy with a new job.
Anyway, the brakes are coming along well. Here are some pics. A mate of mine has sub-assembled the entire driveshaft, hub, rotor, wheel on the bench, and that is the photo of the wheel you can see.
There is enough clearance to do the job. However, I have elected to take 2mm off the front face of the caliper, if that makes sense. Just to allow extra clearance there. They are a sliding caliper, so with 'new' pads installed the clearance between the inner of wheel and outer of rotor are closer.
I know what you are going to say, just get bigger wheels. Yep great easy. This is the challenge to get them under the standard wheels -- and as you can see the diameter clearances are more than adequate. You won't be able to see through the spokes of the wheels though. Will all be just brake.
Turbo> Well I know what the problem is and I know how to solve it. Re-build the one I have, so thats just $$$$$$$ ---- And not much point really, while the car is up on the stands!
The turbo is actually the easier of the 2 problems. Has to be ready for the April Easter sprints though
ENjoy, please comment.
Timmzy
Haven't posted for a while, been busy with a new job.
Anyway, the brakes are coming along well. Here are some pics. A mate of mine has sub-assembled the entire driveshaft, hub, rotor, wheel on the bench, and that is the photo of the wheel you can see.
There is enough clearance to do the job. However, I have elected to take 2mm off the front face of the caliper, if that makes sense. Just to allow extra clearance there. They are a sliding caliper, so with 'new' pads installed the clearance between the inner of wheel and outer of rotor are closer.
I know what you are going to say, just get bigger wheels. Yep great easy. This is the challenge to get them under the standard wheels -- and as you can see the diameter clearances are more than adequate. You won't be able to see through the spokes of the wheels though. Will all be just brake.
Turbo> Well I know what the problem is and I know how to solve it. Re-build the one I have, so thats just $$$$$$$ ---- And not much point really, while the car is up on the stands!
The turbo is actually the easier of the 2 problems. Has to be ready for the April Easter sprints though
ENjoy, please comment.
Timmzy
Brakes are on and complete. Here are some pics.
These are all views of the standard wheels over the brakes. However, the standard wheels have had a small amount of material removed from them, because there was not enough clearance with 'new' brake pads in.
I have also checked clearances under some 17's and 15in TRX wheels. So all is well. I am sick of changing and mock fitting up wheels though. Like all of these sorts of jobs, it was not straight forward. I would not suggest that people do this mod unless you have a high degree of automotive knowledge. Pics of the 17's and some more brake detail below.
Basically the original drive hubs were machined down, the magna rotors machined out, new bearings installed, trialing edge claiper mounting hole machined, and longer wheel studs fitted. The rotor now sits on the 'front' of the driveshaft flange, as like a semi floating rotor squashed in-between the hub and wheel. So some calculations were need because that obvioulsy pushed the whole wheel assm. out about 5mm, plus the fact I needed longer studs to correctly fit the 17 wheels on. Anyway, I have the correct longer wheel stud part number for front and rear (same) if anyone needs it.
Calipers were overhauled with a sandblast and some kits from Repco. I also put a kit through the master cylinder for saftey's sake. Stainless Steel brake lines were manufactured by:
Hightek Brakes
F11 / 59 - 65 Keys Road Moorabbin VIC 3189
Phone: (03) 9553 1160 Fax: (03) 9555 4680
Email: hightekbrakes@iprimus.com.au
They cost $80 each, obviously 2 were required. That was easy. Just gave them the old hose and the new calipers and said please make it work!!
New brake fluid was pumped through the system, bled. Brake clips installed, caliper bolts wired together for safety, lines were protected with some conjute, All bolts re-torqued to spec - High tensile caliper bolts were used and done up to 90Nm.
AND WE ARE DONE!!
This is one of the first jobs on this car that I can say is completely done and dusted to my satisfaction with NO cut corners.
So its ready to drop on the ground, new 2nd hand skyline turbo on board with some other shit. Will be aiming to get it on the dyno in the next 2 weeks or so. Just want a reliable tune in it so I can go racing.
Fuel system, suspension, bushes, etc can wait. I just want to use it for a bit. Will keep you guys a little more up to date!!
Darren.
These are all views of the standard wheels over the brakes. However, the standard wheels have had a small amount of material removed from them, because there was not enough clearance with 'new' brake pads in.
I have also checked clearances under some 17's and 15in TRX wheels. So all is well. I am sick of changing and mock fitting up wheels though. Like all of these sorts of jobs, it was not straight forward. I would not suggest that people do this mod unless you have a high degree of automotive knowledge. Pics of the 17's and some more brake detail below.
Basically the original drive hubs were machined down, the magna rotors machined out, new bearings installed, trialing edge claiper mounting hole machined, and longer wheel studs fitted. The rotor now sits on the 'front' of the driveshaft flange, as like a semi floating rotor squashed in-between the hub and wheel. So some calculations were need because that obvioulsy pushed the whole wheel assm. out about 5mm, plus the fact I needed longer studs to correctly fit the 17 wheels on. Anyway, I have the correct longer wheel stud part number for front and rear (same) if anyone needs it.
Calipers were overhauled with a sandblast and some kits from Repco. I also put a kit through the master cylinder for saftey's sake. Stainless Steel brake lines were manufactured by:
Hightek Brakes
F11 / 59 - 65 Keys Road Moorabbin VIC 3189
Phone: (03) 9553 1160 Fax: (03) 9555 4680
Email: hightekbrakes@iprimus.com.au
They cost $80 each, obviously 2 were required. That was easy. Just gave them the old hose and the new calipers and said please make it work!!
New brake fluid was pumped through the system, bled. Brake clips installed, caliper bolts wired together for safety, lines were protected with some conjute, All bolts re-torqued to spec - High tensile caliper bolts were used and done up to 90Nm.
AND WE ARE DONE!!
This is one of the first jobs on this car that I can say is completely done and dusted to my satisfaction with NO cut corners.
So its ready to drop on the ground, new 2nd hand skyline turbo on board with some other shit. Will be aiming to get it on the dyno in the next 2 weeks or so. Just want a reliable tune in it so I can go racing.
Fuel system, suspension, bushes, etc can wait. I just want to use it for a bit. Will keep you guys a little more up to date!!
Darren.
Race it.
damn that looks SICK i love it, whats it brake like?? or havent tried it??
they look massive on the std rims haha
they look massive on the std rims haha
Members Ride: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6786
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
I haven't tried the braking performance yet.
I have done a bleed with one of those vacuum one man bleeder tools and the pedal feels good, but I want to perform a 'proper' 2 man bleed on it which I will do this weekend. The pedal is still a little spongy when you first press it and then it hardens up after the first pump. Feels pretty much the same as the standard pedal statically.
I have some calculations to do on swept area and piston area that I will perform and then post up. Its all been ad-hoc so far. Regardless, the calipers are the ones I am going to use because they fit on so easily, with minimal modification.
They do look massive behind the standard rims, better than I thought!
Darren.
I have done a bleed with one of those vacuum one man bleeder tools and the pedal feels good, but I want to perform a 'proper' 2 man bleed on it which I will do this weekend. The pedal is still a little spongy when you first press it and then it hardens up after the first pump. Feels pretty much the same as the standard pedal statically.
I have some calculations to do on swept area and piston area that I will perform and then post up. Its all been ad-hoc so far. Regardless, the calipers are the ones I am going to use because they fit on so easily, with minimal modification.
They do look massive behind the standard rims, better than I thought!
Darren.
Race it.
-
tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Darren
is there a pressin reason you have oriented the calipers "upside down??
Ill be the devils advocate here and say I would have liked to have seen you swap the calipers over to have the brake lines exiting out upward rather than downwards now which might be prone to picking up sticks and so-on which you sometimes cant avoid.
As well, with the caliper oriented like that, you cannot ever bleed them correctly. Air will always collect above that bleed point.
In order to solve your bleeding issues, (which you have) you will have to unbolt the caliper and orient the bleed nipple vertical. seem like a pain in the arse to me
Or there is something in that installation im missing?
L8tr
E
is there a pressin reason you have oriented the calipers "upside down??
Ill be the devils advocate here and say I would have liked to have seen you swap the calipers over to have the brake lines exiting out upward rather than downwards now which might be prone to picking up sticks and so-on which you sometimes cant avoid.
As well, with the caliper oriented like that, you cannot ever bleed them correctly. Air will always collect above that bleed point.
In order to solve your bleeding issues, (which you have) you will have to unbolt the caliper and orient the bleed nipple vertical. seem like a pain in the arse to me
Or there is something in that installation im missing?
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
Hahaaa, Evan you are a gun!!
Long Answer:
They are actually like that because they were machined as a driveshaft-hub-rotor assembly. The machining was done off the car, and in doing that somewhere along the lines they were mixed up and machined that way. 1S and 2L were stamped into the calipers to match hubs (long and short driveshafts). So I have installed them the way they were intended.
When taking pics of them, I seen the PBR logo around the wrong way. When bleeding the brakes, I couldn't get all of the air out - For obvious reasons now!! But it takes another point of view to look at it and say it!
So now, to fix the bleeding problem and to have them function correctly, I will - tonight - be reversing them.
Short Answer:
Point to the d!ckhead that put the calipers on the wrong way!!
->
<- ahhhh that would be me!
Honestly, Thanks a lot for pointing this out. I have been caught up so much in the detail, that I overlooked this. Even the brake lines were made with extra length to accomodate.
Darren.
Long Answer:
They are actually like that because they were machined as a driveshaft-hub-rotor assembly. The machining was done off the car, and in doing that somewhere along the lines they were mixed up and machined that way. 1S and 2L were stamped into the calipers to match hubs (long and short driveshafts). So I have installed them the way they were intended.
When taking pics of them, I seen the PBR logo around the wrong way. When bleeding the brakes, I couldn't get all of the air out - For obvious reasons now!! But it takes another point of view to look at it and say it!
So now, to fix the bleeding problem and to have them function correctly, I will - tonight - be reversing them.
Short Answer:
Point to the d!ckhead that put the calipers on the wrong way!!
->
<- ahhhh that would be me!Honestly, Thanks a lot for pointing this out. I have been caught up so much in the detail, that I overlooked this. Even the brake lines were made with extra length to accomodate.
Darren.
Race it.
-
tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Hahahah 'tis cool M8.
I just couldnt figure why theyd be USD thats all hence mebber there was some funky reason they were oriented that way. It just jumped out at me!
Stranger things have happened M8.
Old saying, "Sometimes dont see the wood for the trees"!!!!
Nice job M8.
Ill be interested to hear how they perform.
EBC reds for you!!!!!! Greens if it spends time on the road!
L8tr
E
I just couldnt figure why theyd be USD thats all hence mebber there was some funky reason they were oriented that way. It just jumped out at me!
Stranger things have happened M8.
Old saying, "Sometimes dont see the wood for the trees"!!!!
Nice job M8.
Ill be interested to hear how they perform.
EBC reds for you!!!!!! Greens if it spends time on the road!
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
Hi Callum,
Haven't caught up for a while. Hows the shed going, almost there? It was a good day down at phillip island hey?
About those pads, I will just stick with what in there for now. I don't exactly know what available for performance Magna's!! I don't even know if they have a higher rated pad>?
Is it expensive to get someone like EBC to re-line your pads with their material? I know that other companies can re-line brake shoes, so surely someone must be able to do it.
Anyway, I have to get it all down and onto the dyno first. So I will stick with the bendix for now. Why are they shit? OVerheat?
Darren.
Haven't caught up for a while. Hows the shed going, almost there? It was a good day down at phillip island hey?
About those pads, I will just stick with what in there for now. I don't exactly know what available for performance Magna's!! I don't even know if they have a higher rated pad>?
Is it expensive to get someone like EBC to re-line your pads with their material? I know that other companies can re-line brake shoes, so surely someone must be able to do it.
Anyway, I have to get it all down and onto the dyno first. So I will stick with the bendix for now. Why are they shit? OVerheat?
Darren.
Race it.
Yeah now waiting for F#ckn concreters to give me a quote. Left messages with 8, got one "over the phone" quote and one guy coming today to have a look. The rest? haven't heard from them after 2 weeks! The first guy wants $800 in labour for a single day, single person. I'm in the wrong business.
Anyway!, I have used a few pads over the years and never been happy with bendix. The issue is that most are OK for a hillclimb or motorK, but when you start doing a few laps the thing turn to mush. The builds up after a couple of high speed stops and the pads/fluid goes squishy. In the Exa 4 laps at East Sale would be about enough. At Sandown three starts them off.
QBC Kevlar 90 is better than Bendix, I've tried QFM material (from racebrakes) but the Starion cooked them at East Sale. ATM I'm running a lucus (TRW) pad that is rated to 600 degrees in the Mazda6 and Mr2 (about $120 a set at BGT in Hawthorn), but haven't had this round a track. GreenStuff are highly rated. Beyond these there are serious racing pads that I haven't tried ($300+ a set) because most of my cars have also been road registered.....and I might need to stop on cold pads
If you can't get pads there's two ways to do it, first get some backing relined, secondly find a set thats close and have them ground down to suit. BGT reckon the second option is cheapest, depending on finding a set that close to start with.
Anyway!, I have used a few pads over the years and never been happy with bendix. The issue is that most are OK for a hillclimb or motorK, but when you start doing a few laps the thing turn to mush. The builds up after a couple of high speed stops and the pads/fluid goes squishy. In the Exa 4 laps at East Sale would be about enough. At Sandown three starts them off.
QBC Kevlar 90 is better than Bendix, I've tried QFM material (from racebrakes) but the Starion cooked them at East Sale. ATM I'm running a lucus (TRW) pad that is rated to 600 degrees in the Mazda6 and Mr2 (about $120 a set at BGT in Hawthorn), but haven't had this round a track. GreenStuff are highly rated. Beyond these there are serious racing pads that I haven't tried ($300+ a set) because most of my cars have also been road registered.....and I might need to stop on cold pads
If you can't get pads there's two ways to do it, first get some backing relined, secondly find a set thats close and have them ground down to suit. BGT reckon the second option is cheapest, depending on finding a set that close to start with.
Did a quick couple of phone calls, your pad fits:
Nimbus=1984 - 1992=UA, UB, UC=DB319
Colt=1984 - 1988=Vista (U.S.A)=DB319
Cordia=1985 - 1989=AC GSL, GSR 1.8=DB319
Galant=1988 - 1991=HG, SE, GSR 2.0=DB319
Lancer=1988 - 1990=CA, 1.5=DB319
Magna=1985 - 1991=TP, TN, TM, GLX, SE 2.6 litre=DB319
Tredia=1982 - 1987=1.6 Turbo (N.Z)=DB319
Available in Lucas (TRW) upto 650degrees at about $120 OR a CarbonKevlar R4 racing pad at ~$360 working range 700 degrees with a higher coefficient of friction.
EBC don’t have any (green, red or blue) in country (their number is 461) would need to check with the UK.
This is just from BGT in Hawthorn for Lucas and Dandenong for R4's, didn't check with RaceBRakes (north melbourne).
As a side note, the twin pistion Magna TF calipers Jon ended up using on VR4 Galant discs fit:
Challenger=Mar 1998=4x4 Wagon 3.0=DB1223
Delica=1995=Delica PD5V (Import)=DB1223
Nimbus=Sep-98 - May-04=UG Wagon 2.4=DB1223
Pajero=May-91 - 2000=NL, NK, NJ, NH, GLX, GlS=DB1223
3000=Mar-91 - 1998=GT 3.0=DB1223
3000=Mar-91 - 1998=GT 3.0 Akebono Caliper=DB1223
FTO=1994 - 1998=2D 2.0 (Import)=DB1223
Galant=1990 - 1993=VR4=DB1223
Lancer=1992 - 1995=Evolution 1 2 3 Sedan 2.0 Akebono Caliper=DB1223
Lancer=1995 - 1998=Evolution 4 Sedan 2.0 Akebono Caliper=DB1223
Magna=Apr-96 - Aug-00=TH, TF, TE Akebono Caliper=DB1223
Magna=Apr-96 - Aug-00=TH, TF, TE Sumitomo Caliper=DB1223
Magna=Aug 2003=TL (AWD) , TJ Ralliart V6=DB1223
Verada=1992 - 2000=V6 Ei, Xi (Wagon)=DB1223
Verada=1992 - 2000=V6 Ei, Xi (With ABS) Twin Piston Caliper=DB1223
But he didn't think these would fit under a 15 inch rim, but the earlier magna/verada's ran 15 inch tyres (just checked on goodyears site) as did the VR4, so it might work...
Nimbus=1984 - 1992=UA, UB, UC=DB319
Colt=1984 - 1988=Vista (U.S.A)=DB319
Cordia=1985 - 1989=AC GSL, GSR 1.8=DB319
Galant=1988 - 1991=HG, SE, GSR 2.0=DB319
Lancer=1988 - 1990=CA, 1.5=DB319
Magna=1985 - 1991=TP, TN, TM, GLX, SE 2.6 litre=DB319
Tredia=1982 - 1987=1.6 Turbo (N.Z)=DB319
Available in Lucas (TRW) upto 650degrees at about $120 OR a CarbonKevlar R4 racing pad at ~$360 working range 700 degrees with a higher coefficient of friction.
EBC don’t have any (green, red or blue) in country (their number is 461) would need to check with the UK.
This is just from BGT in Hawthorn for Lucas and Dandenong for R4's, didn't check with RaceBRakes (north melbourne).
As a side note, the twin pistion Magna TF calipers Jon ended up using on VR4 Galant discs fit:
Challenger=Mar 1998=4x4 Wagon 3.0=DB1223
Delica=1995=Delica PD5V (Import)=DB1223
Nimbus=Sep-98 - May-04=UG Wagon 2.4=DB1223
Pajero=May-91 - 2000=NL, NK, NJ, NH, GLX, GlS=DB1223
3000=Mar-91 - 1998=GT 3.0=DB1223
3000=Mar-91 - 1998=GT 3.0 Akebono Caliper=DB1223
FTO=1994 - 1998=2D 2.0 (Import)=DB1223
Galant=1990 - 1993=VR4=DB1223
Lancer=1992 - 1995=Evolution 1 2 3 Sedan 2.0 Akebono Caliper=DB1223
Lancer=1995 - 1998=Evolution 4 Sedan 2.0 Akebono Caliper=DB1223
Magna=Apr-96 - Aug-00=TH, TF, TE Akebono Caliper=DB1223
Magna=Apr-96 - Aug-00=TH, TF, TE Sumitomo Caliper=DB1223
Magna=Aug 2003=TL (AWD) , TJ Ralliart V6=DB1223
Verada=1992 - 2000=V6 Ei, Xi (Wagon)=DB1223
Verada=1992 - 2000=V6 Ei, Xi (With ABS) Twin Piston Caliper=DB1223
But he didn't think these would fit under a 15 inch rim, but the earlier magna/verada's ran 15 inch tyres (just checked on goodyears site) as did the VR4, so it might work...
Whoa, Callum thanks for that, more choices than I first thought.
Well if that's the case, using the Bendix pads should be interesting. Thanks for fishing around for me.
I tonight fixed the brakes and placed them on correctly. Gave them a quick 1-man bleed (!) and the pedal is much better. Its hard all of the time - as opposed to 3/4 travel on the first depression.
Finally finished this job, after not touching the car for a week. Its good to know that its done, and I can be confident in jumping on that pedal when required.
No math calculations yet, I am too excited and just want to see how it goes. I will get the calculations up though.
At this stage, I will be hitting the road for a drive this weekend. Won't be anything exciting though, because I will be tuning in a nearby business park. Should be interesting - done it before so hopefully the weather is nice and cool. I can only really do a base tune off boost. But I really just want to make sure everything is OK before I go and pay money for someone to dyno.
Will be interesting with the brake performance.
anyway
Darren.
Well if that's the case, using the Bendix pads should be interesting. Thanks for fishing around for me.
I tonight fixed the brakes and placed them on correctly. Gave them a quick 1-man bleed (!) and the pedal is much better. Its hard all of the time - as opposed to 3/4 travel on the first depression.
Finally finished this job, after not touching the car for a week. Its good to know that its done, and I can be confident in jumping on that pedal when required.
No math calculations yet, I am too excited and just want to see how it goes. I will get the calculations up though.
At this stage, I will be hitting the road for a drive this weekend. Won't be anything exciting though, because I will be tuning in a nearby business park. Should be interesting - done it before so hopefully the weather is nice and cool. I can only really do a base tune off boost. But I really just want to make sure everything is OK before I go and pay money for someone to dyno.
Will be interesting with the brake performance.
anyway
Darren.
Race it.
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EXAsperate
- Posts: 191
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