E17ET stroker build ...callumgw... original post

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PAC_ET
Posts: 81
Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 8:32 pm
Location: Sydney

E17ET stroker build ...callumgw... original post

Post by PAC_ET » Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:59 pm

OK
A job like this is not for the feint hearted and cannot really be successfully done on the cheap.
To get around 200cc increased capacity, you are unlikely to have any change out of 2 grand if the job is done properly and thats assuming you do the entire job yourself, so dont think for a minute that its cheap horsepower.
You are basically building a brand new engine so do it right the first time.

For those not put off by this then heres a few bits of info to help you along the way:

Pistons are custom jobs made by:

Special Piston Services
13/112 Hammond Rd
Dandenong Vic.
3175

Part number 3645.

$1300 +/- per set including pins and rings.
You need to specify a bore size.
Bore oversizes up to 2mm (0.080") oversize without the dramas of bore splitting are used which brings engine capacity up around 1700cc.

The pin height will need to be 3mm higher on the piston (lower compression height) to account for the extra stroke of the 1600 crank and keep the pistons down in the bore the same as stock.
This keeps compression ratio down around stock and pistons away from valves.

Get your 1600 crank prepared. If it measures up OK then have the pins and mains "micropolished".

Have your new custom pistons fitted to the stock E15et (turbo) rods.

Have your block bored to suit the new pistons.
E15's are a bit notorious for blowing headgasket. By boring the block out so far, your removing quite a bit of "meat" from between cylinder 1/2 and 3/4.
Ask the engine machinist to check the block top deck for condition and straightness and have it lightly skimmed if necessary. But ONLY if necessary.
For an engine such as this it would be very wise to replace all headbolts with new items or for the best, ARP studs and nuts conversion.

See here for ARP part numbers:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6790

NEVER omit the washers that live under EVERY stock headbolt. If your engines does not have those washers, then they have been left out from a previous sloppy build. They must be there to achieve correct headbolt tension and distribution of pressure.
Sometimes, these washers can only be fitted one way up. Check the hole of the washer for a machined chamfer (angle) If its on both sides of the washer there is no issue.
The chamfer MUST match up with the radius between the bolt head and its stem.
Also, ENSURE that the headbolt holes in the block are completely cleaned out.
I run an M10 x 1.5 finishing ("plug") tap carefully down all the holes to remove any rust and other crud that always gathers in those holes that basically can render torquing the headbolts a waste of time.
Blow the holes out with an air gun.
Leaving them full of crap and rust, you might as well just do the bolts up until your teeth clench together to the correct pressure and your wrist clicks and leave the tension wrench in its box.

You would be wise to factor in a full head recondition and while its all apart would be a nice time to have everything balanced.

Dont forget to cost in a complete engine gasket and seal set along with a complete set of new gaskets, belts and thermostat.

The job CANNOT be done quickly and easily "in chassis". It requires a complete engine removal, stripdown and reassembly.


Simple as that!

C

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height differences
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ammount of dish compared to the later model e15et pistons (86 model plus)
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Block bored 80tho, decked and cleaned
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1.2mm copper head gasket
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o'ringed block
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stroker crank ballanced and micro polished
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flywheel balanced to the crank
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also the balancer has been balanced to the crank
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pistons fitted to the factory e15et rods which have been shot peined, rods and pistons balanced also
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User avatar
Callumgw
Posts: 2354
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:55 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Callumgw » Wed Sep 22, 2010 6:27 am

ohh, nice work! my original post was just a pinch from somewhere to keep the data alive so someone could do it. Great!

C

PAC_ET
Posts: 81
Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 8:32 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by PAC_ET » Wed Sep 22, 2010 6:32 pm

Callumgw wrote:ohh, nice work! my original post was just a pinch from somewhere to keep the data alive so someone could do it. Great!

C
yeah iv been waiting to add more to your post when you wrote it last year, but only got my engine and everything back last week, it was sitting at the machine shop for over a year, its well worth the wait

PAC_ET
Posts: 81
Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 8:32 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by PAC_ET » Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:17 pm

slowly working on the engine getting her back together, finally washed the block down and cleaned out the journals etc... put the rings on the pistons and carefully put them in their new home, was quite surprised that all bearing clearances were practically the same and within standard spec's, i used acl duraglide bearings which weren't cheap, and a plasti gauge to check bearing clearances, bought genuine main cap bolts and rod bolts... cam bearing paste was used on the bearings, cause the engine wont be ready any time soon so i chose something durable that wont leave my bearings dry after sitting for so long...

only thing keeping me from completing the engine is what head work to do?? im thinking of only porting the exhaust ports only, install new valves and get a 3 angle valve and seat job, heavy duty springs, iv already got a stage 3 cam shaft, shave the head and get it o'ringed as well, and still saving up to get head studs, and unsure weather to use the copper head gasket or the genuine nissan gasket....

iv mastered match porting, so the intake side is complete, tho not sure weather to use the jap spec manifold or aussie version, or tig up my own..

any ways heres a few pic's

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User avatar
Kimmo
Posts: 2285
Joined: Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:40 am
Location: Footscray

Post by Kimmo » Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:49 pm

Damn, that looks sweet!

...Isn't red a bit lairy for a sump, though? Reminds me of this build...

PAC_ET
Posts: 81
Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 8:32 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by PAC_ET » Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:04 am

Kimmo wrote:Damn, that looks sweet!

...Isn't red a bit lairy for a sump, though? Reminds me of this build...
i was gonna leave it black, but since im not working, i tought iv got a big arse compressor and a sand blaster so i thought i might go over every thing the sand and hit it with some paint, but im not gonna go crazy like that bloke...

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