AFM relocation step by step

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{TUBZ}
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AFM relocation step by step

Post by {TUBZ} » Thu Aug 03, 2006 9:15 pm

{THIS IS A COPY FROM A NISSANEXA.COM MEMBER ANDROID360}
HOPE IT WILL HELP PEOPLE IV DONE IT AND WORKED LIKE A CHARM
EXACUTIVE'S AIR FLOW METER REPOSITION PROCEDURE

This has been asked many times. "How do you do the air flow meter relocation?" Well im here to guide you through the procedure in detail, As on the 30th of March, I completed the AFM relocation. And I had some head scratching and difficulty in the procedure. hopefully this will be placed in the modification of N12 section of nissanexa.com.
Just keen to help....so Lets's begin.


Open the bonnet. The AFM (air flow meter) should be located before the airbox/pod filter on a bracket with 3 10mm bolts holding it on the drivers side of the engine bay, mounted on the strut tower.

Now before I did the procedure, I had a pod filter attaced to the AFM. I did not retain the factory Airbox. I am not experianced in the removal of this item.

Remove the Airbox/pod from the AFM. Then use a Phillips Head Screwdriver to undo the clamps that connects the piping from AFM to the log* - See Below

*LOG - This is the Large piece of steel piping that runs under the throttle body/Behind the rocer cover*

Be gentle in the removal and handling of the AFM, There is a delicate electrical element that can break easily inside.

There is a plug on the bottom of the AFM. The easiest way to remove this is by using a flathead screwdriver and pushing the little metal holding clip outwards away from the plug.

Once the plug is away from the AFM, place the AFM in a safe place out of harms way as this is a delicate item.

Nextly, Undo the clamps that hold the pipe from the passenger side of the log to the turbo compressor opening, and place this with the AFM.

The next thing is a little more finicky and time consuming. The loom that runs under the throttle body beside the log, must be unwrapped as the plug for the AFM cannot reach where it will later be placed. The Wrap on the loom consists of a film of tape and some rubber tubing. Keep this tubing for later tidy ups.
The wires inside the loom consist of: Injector leads,AFM leads,cold idle sensor wires and TPS wires.

* an easy way to gain acces to the loom is by un plugging the TPS (throttle position sensor) cold idle sensors and trottle control screws. Remember to replace the plugs afterwards.

Gently, ease the AFM plug, through the gap under the trottle body and lay on top of the gearbox.

The Removal section is now complete.

The next section is the Relocation. But first, Grab a feed...

The Ends of the log must be blocked by a solid item. I went through a tough time to try and find the right block/plug up.
In the end i used the bottom of a paint can. 10cm in diameter with a rubber gasket in the bottom for better sealing. Then i used a standard Hose clamp to fix it secure on the end of the log. This solid block must be on the drivers side only.

Other suggested blocks are:
Tennis balls,
Nescafe coffee jar lids
Vegemite jar lids.
But So far, the Paint can/Baked bean can is the best block.

***SUB PROCEDURE - BAKED BEAN/PAINT TIN LOG BLOCKS***
finish your baked beans... the SPC cans are the best.
and use tin snips to cut down to where the ripples in the can stop. (use gloves as the metal is razor sharp)
you should have a metal item bout the same shape as a lid.
This will require some subtle coaxing onto the log but that means it seals excellent. use a standard hose clamp to secure it.
A rubber mat or grommet can also be shoved inside the cans end to increase seal efficency.

- - - - AFM RELOCATION CONT. - - - -

on the other end, use the factory turbo elbow with the breather pipe housing and attach it to the passenger side. With the large opening of the fitting, on the log. Seal the other end with a block of round wood or a small jar lid as seen on my engine. make sure it seals properly. Use Sikaflex or silicone is the need be.

Grab the AFM, and the pod. Use a Factory pipe joiner to attach the AFM to the Pod in such a way that water will not enter the pod. the diagram below will give you a rough outline of the placement that is required.

TURBO===O===AFM=====POD

***KEY***

=== rubber joiner
=O= hole in joiner

* REMEMBER, The AFM only works one way due to its flap reading style. The AFM has a side that the opening has a cross on the inside of opening. This is the side that the pod filter attaches ONLY.

and use another to join the AFM to the Turbo compressor.
A hole must be made in the joiner about the size of a 5 cent piece. make sure that the AFM and turbo compressor can be attached leaving enough room for you to put your finger in the hole without obstruction. If this is successful then move onto the important bit.

***BACKGROUND***

The E15ET, uses Vacuum in the Log.
During my AFM reposition, i had alot of trouble starting my car. this was due to open ends on the log. the vaccum was not measured.

- - - - AFM RELOCATION CONT. - - - -

Grab a length of heat resistant hose. Garden hose if you will. but as long as the diameter is about 5cm. Remember the hole we left in the fitting from the turbo pipe? that we put on the passenger side of the log? well place one end of the hose in there and the other in the hole you cut in the joiner between turbo and AFM, making sure there are NO air leaks.
Plug in the AFM meter. And kick her over.

The reason for the hose is so vacuum can be sucked up to the sensor for cold idle and proper idle.

take it for a drive. torque, and boost response will be improved dramatically.
This Procedure is best used with a RB30E/T throttle body install for best gains

Jayman
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Post by Jayman » Thu Aug 03, 2006 9:53 pm

sweet sweet sweet
Before you decide to criticize someone, walk a mile in there shoes.....

then your a mile away, and you have their shoes!!

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Ben Hewitson
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Post by Ben Hewitson » Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:08 am

you guys realise that the original AFM relocation proceedure was actually taken from this site.. which came from fullboost.com if i remember correctly.... hahah. round and round we go.. where we stop, nobody will know...

if it still exists that is..
Uncie-G wrote: As for the drift steering wheel, if you use this combined with earthing kit at the same time the overall road feel and torque steer gets reduced.

exanator
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afm relocation

Post by exanator » Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:47 am

it should really be a log and afm relocation and you can put the afm and the log infront of the turbo

YOU JST NEED TO CUT THE LOG SO IT HAS THE TW0 SENSORS AND LEAVE THE OTHER PART OF THE LOG TO HOLD THE ACCELORATOR BRACKET AND PUT THE PART U CUT INFRONT OF THE TURBO AND THEN EXTEND THE WIRES AND CONNECT AND COVER THE HOLE ON THE PLENUM WITH A 2MM PIECE OF STEEL AND THEN UR DONE U CAN PUT THE AFM INFRONT OF THE LOG WHICH IS INFRONT OF THE TURBO! IF ANY1 WANTS PIKS OR SPECIFIC STEP TO STEP ON HOW TO DO IT THEN DUN HESITATE TO PM ME!

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Tue Aug 08, 2006 12:57 pm

Well, dont keep it to yourself "exanator". Waiting for someone to PM you about it.
Hit the keys and wite up a procedure and post it here for all to see!
L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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dahurldog
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Post by dahurldog » Tue Aug 08, 2006 2:49 pm

second that - post it up brother

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thepurplepulsar
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Post by thepurplepulsar » Tue Aug 08, 2006 4:35 pm

Yeah go for it exanator. Though take the time to make it legible... with some grammar, punctuation and correct spelling.

I can't stand trying to decipher 'SMS shorthand' style text and I'm sure I'm not the only one.

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Panda_ET
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Post by Panda_ET » Tue Aug 08, 2006 4:48 pm

^^^^agreed and please dont type the whole thing in capitals its hard to read

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puffypuss
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Post by puffypuss » Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:23 am

I went with the baked bean can method! Works fine :D
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Android 360
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Post by Android 360 » Fri May 11, 2007 5:27 pm

i didnt write it, ty did :) i just posted it up for him
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{TUBZ}
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Post by {TUBZ} » Fri May 11, 2007 6:24 pm

so you dont want the credit for it??? lol

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Kimmo
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Post by Kimmo » Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:25 am


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