Battery to boot relocation for N12 EXA and ET.

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:31 am

The thick White wire is always hot to the alternator and to the fuse block for always live fuses

Thick Black/Red is hot to the key. For switched items

Thin Black/Red is hot to feed the injectors via the resistor block

White/Red feeds the ECU relay which in turn becomes the lue wire to the ECU

Wiring diagrammes are your friend.
USE them:
http://www.n12turbo.com/files/files.htm

L8tr
E
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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txateu
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Post by txateu » Mon Jan 19, 2009 5:58 pm

I've already seen those, Ben sent them to me there not as easy to comprhend as you might think. If I had the original wiring it would be so much easier. The main problem is finding the wires.
cheers Michael,

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Tue Jan 20, 2009 11:00 am

You already have the original wires, they are in the pix you posted?????
The colours are clearly seen (IGNORE the 2 cut wires as they are fuses)

Black/Red and White

I have given you clear descriptions and you have wiring diagrammes with the colours clearly printed on them showing where they go and what they eventually do.

Why dont you remove all that insulation and tape shit and see what colours go where.

I think youll find the injector resistor wire (Black/Red and the ECU power feed (white/Red) will be spliced into one of those thicker Black/Red or plain White wires somewhere in that harness there.

So, those 2 thicker wires will connect direct to the starter motor where the battery cable is bolted on.

Oh well, there you go, i just did the job for you rather than make you suss it for yourself........ nothing learned eh?

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Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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txateu
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Post by txateu » Tue Jan 20, 2009 6:34 pm

Lol cheers E, i'll remove all the insulation the next time I work on the car hopefully I can make good all the wiring and get it all working.
cheers Michael,

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tassuperkart
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Post by tassuperkart » Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:49 am

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.

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Callumgw
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Post by Callumgw » Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:22 am

dont removal ALL the insulation, copper on metal bodywork has some "minor" issues...just the sheath that forms the groups of cables into a single bundle.

(this comment is more for young player who might read this later than you Txateu)

C

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Kimmo
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Post by Kimmo » Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:03 pm

Maybe a nice analogous euphemism is the go...

You've gotta skin the loom.

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txateu
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Post by txateu » Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:42 pm

skin-less wiring? what else will the try to make reduced fat?
Good idea Callum, ill post up some pics for abit of future reference too
cheers Michael,

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txateu
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Post by txateu » Tue Jan 27, 2009 4:13 pm

here are the pics connected to my current wiring dilema;

Image
Image
Image
*my makeshift connection
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my future connection/isolation switch
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

if these dont help me, I hope they can help someone else later
cheers Michael,

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txateu
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Post by txateu » Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:02 pm

I've removed the conduit from around the wiring. This should make it easier to identify

If anyone can give me some pointers please let me know

Image
Cant figure out what this connects to

Image
A little stuck on where this goes, at the moment its just hanging there

Image
Two cut earths but I cant seem to find what they go to, the engine has an earth near the timing cover and the g/box already has one, so not too sure.

Image
With the conduit removed you can see whats here, can someone help me find which ones go to the battery?

Image
this might help

Image
I guess this goes to the battery.
cheers Michael,

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Ben Hewitson
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Post by Ben Hewitson » Fri Feb 13, 2009 4:39 pm

Afternoon,

I'm home this weekend and will be working on my cars. I'll take more picturs and try to identify which ones you need to hook up where. In the mean time here is the marked up images for now.

Regards

HewiB


Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

(oops, slipped that one in by mistake)
Uncie-G wrote: As for the drift steering wheel, if you use this combined with earthing kit at the same time the overall road feel and torque steer gets reduced.

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txateu
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Post by txateu » Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:08 pm

hahaha thats gold Ben, love the Rx8!

*I cant find a 3rd brown wire, I looked but didnt find it.

*Yeah the black wire was actually the +ve for the started motor

*I may have done a stupid thing but I cut out the fusable links In a hope that it would remove any chance of the links preventing it from working (can fix it up later)

What colour wires do I still need to add, and where in the enginebay can I find them/it?


Image

Image
this ones not part of the battery to boot relocation but I actualy dont know where this goes
cheers Michael,

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baz
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Post by baz » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:40 am

Not sure where that wire goes but it's only an earth as there are a few earths around the engine, Not really needed
My old exa I created from granny spec to a neat little BRIGHT car: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3903

Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute

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txateu
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Post by txateu » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:11 pm

but it must be earthing something to the chassis isn't it? maybe something that is ment to sit below the coil or even the coil it self.

Ben where can I find the wire that goes from black/red to full red? you have it marked there as a fusable link. this might be the last one I need.
cheers Michael,

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Kimmo
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Post by Kimmo » Sat Feb 14, 2009 1:49 pm

I don't have one of those straps in either of my Exas.

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