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Having trouble starting

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rubixcube101
Posts: 94
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
Location: Perth

Having trouble starting

Post by rubixcube101 »

Hey guys im having a bit of trouble starting my car.

In attempt to start my car for the first time i took the spark plugs out and disconnected the fuel relay and distributor to crank up for oil pressure. Engine was cranking perfectly fine.

Then primed the fuel, although the fuel pump does cut out on occasion intermittently for very short periods of time. Changed the relay but no difference really.

Despite this i decided to start it, put the spark plugs back in, connected up the distributor, turned the key... 1 crank... silence. It basically cut after 1 cranks but like it was pressurised and something was making it come to a halt. Tried it again same thing, and I held it this time for an extra second in the moment of silence and it attempted to crank but still nothing.


So im not sure why its doing this, could it be because theres no spark firing while its under compression... (i havent checked the wiring, im totally nakked, didnt want to keep trying and make the situation worse either by flooding the cylinders with fuel with out some extra knowledge).

Other things that i can think off: I did put about 10ml of oil in each cylinder down the spark plugs because the engine was 10years dry, not sure this would have caused it; battery? figured it would have had more of a dying away affect rather than a halt?

A friend suggested the valves could be stuck, but would the engine still have cranked initially when i was building oil pressure under no load?

Help Appreciated!!

Cheers,

Reuben
Sohcturbs
Posts: 94
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:29 am

Post by Sohcturbs »

G'day mate,

Is your battery fully charged up? All the cranking can suck a battery if it's not 100% juiced and ready to go.
Does it crank now if you disconect the relays etc?

Cheers,

Dan
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rubixcube101
Posts: 94
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
Location: Perth

Post by rubixcube101 »

Battery fully charged and still a no go,

Image

Distributor leads are connected 1-3-4-2:

4 3
2 1

Checked ecu diagnostics procedure as follows:
-Turn car to on positions
- depress accelerator pedal
- ecu displays error 23.

Tried a different ecu as well same deal, doesnt show any error for afm so dont think its that.
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zoomzoom
Posts: 268
Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:54 pm
Location: Gympie QLD

Post by zoomzoom »

It was 10yrs dry, cranked ones, than nothing
Its seesed would be my first thought
Pouring oil into the plug holes?
As for a stuck valve, you would hear it hit or brake off the stem and keep turning over.

Have you tried turning it over by hand?
Should of be the first thing you did before cranking it
If it don't,you fcuked
Take the head off if it not rusty after being dry for 10yrs you might get away with alight hone and new rings (don't like your chances though)
Have fun






Zoomzoom
tits'n' wheels gotta love'em
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rubixcube101
Posts: 94
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
Location: Perth

Post by rubixcube101 »

Its actually all good now, going to start it today. Its the Battery relocation entirely. I moved my battery into the engine bay and hooked it up like it was before and its cranking beautifully now!

So now to work out what was causing it and its either:
- Poor Battery earth connected to the boot latch
- Battery box is shit
- Cable running to the front is only 4G and might be too small.
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rubixcube101
Posts: 94
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
Location: Perth

Post by rubixcube101 »

And its the battery box, cause it has piss small leads running from the battery to the terminals
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Damo
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Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:46 pm
Location: Canberra

Post by Damo »

rubixcube101 wrote:And its the battery box, cause it has piss small leads running from the battery to the terminals
I had a little google look for cable size v's square mm, 4gauge is 'supposed' to be 5ish mm diameter and 21mm2 in cross section (which isn't correct because the strands which make up the cable are round and not compressed). To be more accurate, it would be in the 14-16mm range which in the electrical industry is good for a continual 100apms in a 25mtr length. So short term 150amps cold cranking shouldn't pose a problem. I would hazard a guess that you don't have a sizable earth from you block to the chassis. The cables you use should be firmly bolted to a substantial section of the body, ideally to a pre formed threaded hole.


Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!


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rubixcube101
Posts: 94
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
Location: Perth

Post by rubixcube101 »

I ended up just removing the battery box and substituting it for an ANL fuse, and the whole thing worked perfectly. Having said that i did have the firing order wrong initially to start with; 1-3-4-2 and it should've been 1-2-3-4.

Once that was all good the car fired up in seconds!! Was running well I think but there was a lot of smoke even after 5 mins and it was pretty dark so I decided to shut it off and run it in on another day.
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