Hey guys im having a bit of trouble starting my car.
In attempt to start my car for the first time i took the spark plugs out and disconnected the fuel relay and distributor to crank up for oil pressure. Engine was cranking perfectly fine.
Then primed the fuel, although the fuel pump does cut out on occasion intermittently for very short periods of time. Changed the relay but no difference really.
Despite this i decided to start it, put the spark plugs back in, connected up the distributor, turned the key... 1 crank... silence. It basically cut after 1 cranks but like it was pressurised and something was making it come to a halt. Tried it again same thing, and I held it this time for an extra second in the moment of silence and it attempted to crank but still nothing.
So im not sure why its doing this, could it be because theres no spark firing while its under compression... (i havent checked the wiring, im totally nakked, didnt want to keep trying and make the situation worse either by flooding the cylinders with fuel with out some extra knowledge).
Other things that i can think off: I did put about 10ml of oil in each cylinder down the spark plugs because the engine was 10years dry, not sure this would have caused it; battery? figured it would have had more of a dying away affect rather than a halt?
A friend suggested the valves could be stuck, but would the engine still have cranked initially when i was building oil pressure under no load?
Help Appreciated!!
Cheers,
Reuben
N12Turbo.com lanyards are now available! Click here to visit the shop
Having trouble starting
- rubixcube101
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
- Location: Perth
- rubixcube101
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
- Location: Perth
Battery fully charged and still a no go,
Distributor leads are connected 1-3-4-2:
4 3
2 1
Checked ecu diagnostics procedure as follows:
-Turn car to on positions
- depress accelerator pedal
- ecu displays error 23.
Tried a different ecu as well same deal, doesnt show any error for afm so dont think its that.
Distributor leads are connected 1-3-4-2:
4 3
2 1
Checked ecu diagnostics procedure as follows:
-Turn car to on positions
- depress accelerator pedal
- ecu displays error 23.
Tried a different ecu as well same deal, doesnt show any error for afm so dont think its that.
It was 10yrs dry, cranked ones, than nothing
Its seesed would be my first thought
Pouring oil into the plug holes?
As for a stuck valve, you would hear it hit or brake off the stem and keep turning over.
Have you tried turning it over by hand?
Should of be the first thing you did before cranking it
If it don't,you fcuked
Take the head off if it not rusty after being dry for 10yrs you might get away with alight hone and new rings (don't like your chances though)
Have fun
Zoomzoom
Its seesed would be my first thought
Pouring oil into the plug holes?
As for a stuck valve, you would hear it hit or brake off the stem and keep turning over.
Have you tried turning it over by hand?
Should of be the first thing you did before cranking it
If it don't,you fcuked
Take the head off if it not rusty after being dry for 10yrs you might get away with alight hone and new rings (don't like your chances though)
Have fun
Zoomzoom
tits'n' wheels gotta love'em
- rubixcube101
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
- Location: Perth
Its actually all good now, going to start it today. Its the Battery relocation entirely. I moved my battery into the engine bay and hooked it up like it was before and its cranking beautifully now!
So now to work out what was causing it and its either:
- Poor Battery earth connected to the boot latch
- Battery box is shit
- Cable running to the front is only 4G and might be too small.
So now to work out what was causing it and its either:
- Poor Battery earth connected to the boot latch
- Battery box is shit
- Cable running to the front is only 4G and might be too small.
- rubixcube101
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
- Location: Perth
I had a little google look for cable size v's square mm, 4gauge is 'supposed' to be 5ish mm diameter and 21mm2 in cross section (which isn't correct because the strands which make up the cable are round and not compressed). To be more accurate, it would be in the 14-16mm range which in the electrical industry is good for a continual 100apms in a 25mtr length. So short term 150amps cold cranking shouldn't pose a problem. I would hazard a guess that you don't have a sizable earth from you block to the chassis. The cables you use should be firmly bolted to a substantial section of the body, ideally to a pre formed threaded hole.rubixcube101 wrote:And its the battery box, cause it has piss small leads running from the battery to the terminals
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
- rubixcube101
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
- Location: Perth
I ended up just removing the battery box and substituting it for an ANL fuse, and the whole thing worked perfectly. Having said that i did have the firing order wrong initially to start with; 1-3-4-2 and it should've been 1-2-3-4.
Once that was all good the car fired up in seconds!! Was running well I think but there was a lot of smoke even after 5 mins and it was pretty dark so I decided to shut it off and run it in on another day.
Once that was all good the car fired up in seconds!! Was running well I think but there was a lot of smoke even after 5 mins and it was pretty dark so I decided to shut it off and run it in on another day.