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s-cargo engine troubles.
s-cargo engine troubles.
back again, with some more s-cargo related questions
my S-Cargo has developed some strange issues and I'm really chasing a mechanic to have a look at it.
If someone could recommend a decent mechanic in Perth, South of the river that would be great. At the moment I'm looking to go to De Rosa Auto repairs in Myaree/Melville.
Additionally, anyone looking to get rid of an Exa Turbo or ET Turbo with a decent running engine... I'd be interested in that too.
Symptoms... was driving fine, then developed a knocking, no power, push throttle down and knocking gets louder. Can gently idle and maintain around 50kph and that's about it. Will start and idle happily, only knocks under load. Pulled all the plugs, sooty but not offensively so. All cylinders SEEM to be firing but when we disconnected ht/plug 4 while the engine was running there was no noticeable change in pitch/idle... it was only when we pulled the plug on cylinder 1 did the engine bog down. Coolant is clear, and the oil is still oil coloured with no signs of contamination. Didn't pull the rocker cover off but couldn't see much through the inspection/oil filler. I hadn't recently filled the petrol and was on about 1/2 a tank i.e. not pulling from the bottom of the tank. Vacuum lines seemed to still be vacuuming and didn't notice any weird smoke from engine bay. Car has consistently run hot ever since I have had it (replaced radiator about 6 months ago after it blew on a hot down while running down Tonkin Highway with the aircon on)
I'm hazarding a guess going on the workshop manual that I've thrown a bearing somewhere along the line.
my S-Cargo has developed some strange issues and I'm really chasing a mechanic to have a look at it.
If someone could recommend a decent mechanic in Perth, South of the river that would be great. At the moment I'm looking to go to De Rosa Auto repairs in Myaree/Melville.
Additionally, anyone looking to get rid of an Exa Turbo or ET Turbo with a decent running engine... I'd be interested in that too.
Symptoms... was driving fine, then developed a knocking, no power, push throttle down and knocking gets louder. Can gently idle and maintain around 50kph and that's about it. Will start and idle happily, only knocks under load. Pulled all the plugs, sooty but not offensively so. All cylinders SEEM to be firing but when we disconnected ht/plug 4 while the engine was running there was no noticeable change in pitch/idle... it was only when we pulled the plug on cylinder 1 did the engine bog down. Coolant is clear, and the oil is still oil coloured with no signs of contamination. Didn't pull the rocker cover off but couldn't see much through the inspection/oil filler. I hadn't recently filled the petrol and was on about 1/2 a tank i.e. not pulling from the bottom of the tank. Vacuum lines seemed to still be vacuuming and didn't notice any weird smoke from engine bay. Car has consistently run hot ever since I have had it (replaced radiator about 6 months ago after it blew on a hot down while running down Tonkin Highway with the aircon on)
I'm hazarding a guess going on the workshop manual that I've thrown a bearing somewhere along the line.
Well we continued with some more troubleshooting. My mate did a compression test on each of the cylinders. Cylinders 1 & 2 would hold at 120psi, 3 & 4 were around 30psi. So we are guessing it's a knackered head gasket.
(I'm numbering cylinders 1 as the left most as you are facing the car from the front)
(I'm numbering cylinders 1 as the left most as you are facing the car from the front)
That's a good bit of detective work! #1 at drivers side.
Yep, you have blown the gasket between #3 and #4. Head will have to come off and change the gasket over, then you will need to sus out why it was detonating to cause the failure. How much hotter is/was the engine running?
Damo
Yep, you have blown the gasket between #3 and #4. Head will have to come off and change the gasket over, then you will need to sus out why it was detonating to cause the failure. How much hotter is/was the engine running?
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
- rubixcube101
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:31 pm
- Location: Perth
Good mechanic in perth is this guy.... Dr Mark Car Surgeon. I can't promise you that it won't it your pocket though.
He's a great guy and does an amazing job. Made my mums car run like new, cleant it, and paid attention to every bit of detail despite a last minute call for him to service the car a day or two before he was going away.
https://plus.google.com/113750326541813 ... l=au&hl=en
He's a great guy and does an amazing job. Made my mums car run like new, cleant it, and paid attention to every bit of detail despite a last minute call for him to service the car a day or two before he was going away.
https://plus.google.com/113750326541813 ... l=au&hl=en
The engine has always seemed to run hot but that said the temperature gauge in the cluster has NEVER gone above halfway, even when it blew the radiator it wasn't looking near the danger levels... I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of it.Damo wrote:How much hotter is/was the engine running?
Awesome, thanks man. If we still continue to have issues after we pull the head and replace gaskets then the derpwagen may make a visit there.rubixcube101 wrote:Good mechanic in perth is this guy.... Dr Mark Car Surgeon. I can't promise you that it won't it your pocket though.
He's a great guy and does an amazing job. Made my mums car run like new, cleant it, and paid attention to every bit of detail despite a last minute call for him to service the car a day or two before he was going away.
https://plus.google.com/113750326541813 ... l=au&hl=en
Just checked where he is located... that's just down the road from my place. woo. that is awesome.
Another question. The E15S and E15ET share the same gaskets on the main block for the majority of bits, right? I'm just thinking that when I finally get an ET engine, I'll need to pull the head etc and give it a good going over thus will need another gasket set when I rebuild.
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Exy manifold gasket is different.
Damo
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
- tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
Good point. The inlet manifold gaskets are the same for the E15/E15T/E16 the oval shape, where the E13 has the round port shape. Again, they will all be in a standard kit.
Also, out of interest Denied, the E15T has 1mm bigger exhaust valves over the NA E15.
Damo
Also, out of interest Denied, the E15T has 1mm bigger exhaust valves over the NA E15.
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
just an update. our detective work was correct and once I got the head off I saw a nice big hole in the head gasket between cylinders 3 & 4.
I'm betting that there has always been a problem with it since I bought the car, as that would help explain the serious lack of power (which I just ascribed to it being a Nissan S-Cargo), the sooting from the exhaust and the inability to get a decent tune through the carby.
Had the head pressure tested and refaced as the guys reckoned there was a bit of warpage in it, given the ridiculous amount of kludges I've found so far on this engine I wouldn't be surprised if the previous 'mechanic' had just tightened up the head bolts in a circular manner.
I wrote down everything as to stripping the head, so I am aiming to post that up here too... since the workshop manual has all of 3 or 4 steps which doesn't really cover the nitty gritty. I think I ran to 5 pages of oil-stained notes.
I'm betting that there has always been a problem with it since I bought the car, as that would help explain the serious lack of power (which I just ascribed to it being a Nissan S-Cargo), the sooting from the exhaust and the inability to get a decent tune through the carby.
Had the head pressure tested and refaced as the guys reckoned there was a bit of warpage in it, given the ridiculous amount of kludges I've found so far on this engine I wouldn't be surprised if the previous 'mechanic' had just tightened up the head bolts in a circular manner.
I wrote down everything as to stripping the head, so I am aiming to post that up here too... since the workshop manual has all of 3 or 4 steps which doesn't really cover the nitty gritty. I think I ran to 5 pages of oil-stained notes.
Just reading through the thread in the articles about replacement head studs...
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6790
Now, at the moment I have head bolts... reading this through makes it sound like this is a conversion to studs and nuts. Am I reading that correctly? Just want to understand what I'm doing before I go order pricey nuts and bolts.
I'm guessing that the head bolts aren't reuseable? Why go for studs over bolts? Bolts strike me as much simpler... please educate me.
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6790
Now, at the moment I have head bolts... reading this through makes it sound like this is a conversion to studs and nuts. Am I reading that correctly? Just want to understand what I'm doing before I go order pricey nuts and bolts.
I'm guessing that the head bolts aren't reuseable? Why go for studs over bolts? Bolts strike me as much simpler... please educate me.