First run.

[rubixcube101]

Hi guys, the time is soon approaching where I will be able to fire my fresh engine up for the first time. Looking for some advice on what sort of procedure i should follow. There is so much information out there i have no idea as to whats true and whats not. So this is open to all those who love to express their opinion

From what i've gathered so far there seem to be a couple of ideas

- Crank the engine a couple of times after take out spark plugs, disconnecting ignition source and injectors to build oil pressure and make sure that the system is fully lubricated.

-Let the car sort out its idle and warm up, meanwhile check for leaks, don't shut off unless theres some major dramas. Then take it for a 20 min spin.

- Heres where im a bit lost. Run off boost? Drive through the whole rev range, drive hard but not like a maniac? Thrash it?

Reuben

[tassuperkart]

How fresh is the build? Has it had a new/ground cam/followers?
These are the only crucial parts in a build you need to actually worry about.

Fill it with some cheap and nasty mineral oil. Forget any fancy oils and dont bother with overpriced specialty "Running In" oils. Cheapo repco or even supermarket 20/40 or 20/50 is perfectly fine.

You pretty close except DONT let the car idle for any time after its first start.
While your plugs out cranking for oil pressure, set you ignition timing at the same time. Dont have to think about it after that eh?
Just disconnect the CAS plug to kill the injectors and ignition.

Turn the heater tap on full hot, fans off and remove the radiator cap. Keep some extra coolant handy.

Hold your RPM up 1800-2000 odd rpm while the thing heats up. I find an offcut from a small cabletie stuck under the TB adjusting screw works just fine.

Soon as the thermostat opens top your coolant up and replace the radiator cap.

Keep the revs up. Looks for fluid leaks. Run it long enough to ensure that your thermo fan cuts in and is working correctly. I like to run the thing at elevated rpm for no longer that 8 to 10 minutes at very most.

Drop it back to idle speed and recheck ignition timing.

Shut it off and do a hot set on the valves anf give every hose clamp a check tighten and your ready to rock.

Now, out you go and enjoy your engine and dont BABY it. Just drive it like normal and give it a decent flick up thru the revs and power quite often.



Below is my procedure i have been using successfully for nearly 40 years of engine building both 2 stroke and 4 and it has never failed to deliver long lasting, consistent compression and good performing engines.
Make NO mistake, you need to have absolute confidence in your build and are without ANY doubt, your ring gaps, piston to bore, and bearing clearances are spot on to spec!
If you can positively state that all your clearances are correct then this method works a treat.
If in doubt then I take NO responsibility if something nips up or breaks.

Once the initial start and warm up is completed along with valve clearances and timing check, I get out on the road and once temps are stabilised, I usually find a nice long and steep hill, select third, run it hard up to about 3500 to 4000 rpm and floor it and left foot (throttle-brake) brake it to hold it at peak boost for as long as your brakes will stand it. Prolly 10 to 15 seconds before the pads cook.
Repeat this a couple of times as soon as the brakes come back to you.
The longer and steeper the hill the better!
Dont be afraid. This procedure is settling in the ring to bore seal and the higher the cylinder pressures the better.

Then coming downhill when you can rev it up to say 5000-6000 rpm then back off with a prolonged overrun.
Do this a couple of times.

By now, your motor has been running for about 20 minutes and your "run in" is completed.

There ya go! Sounds simple and it IS!!
After that for, say 500 odd K's, just drive it like normal but avoiding any prolonged lugging below 2000rpm and sustained high revs.

Drop your oil and oil filter and re-load it with whatever filter and oil brand and type that gives you sexual feelings!
I run another 1000k's, repeat and then its done.
For me, 10,000K or 6 month oil changes whichever comes first.

I cant stress enough that its far worse to baby the engine like the old timers with bowling hats on and a "running in" placard on the back window wobbling up the road at 30 K's /hour.....

Remember, a brand spanking new car has been on a dyno and raped to the revlimiter thru all the gears repeatedly once it comes off the production line so any further "running in" is pretty pointless when you consider it!!!

Have fun with it.

Oracle

[rubixcube101]

Thanks for your help E, i'll be sure to put your wise info to good use. If I ever stop by tassie i'll be sure to let you know and buy you a couple-o-drinks

Engine was blueprinted rebuild, done about 10 years ago. Not sure by who or what sort of job they did, i think the cam was replaced as theres a bucket with old engine parts including bearings and a cam in there. If the cam was replaced it was not upgraded, just simply replaced to finer tolerances? So i'm guess its done to spec with clearances (probably not taking it apart to find out though unless it dies).

Bit late on the oil already bought some penrite run-in-oil crap. Oh well what can you do.

I'm confused on the ignition timing, can i still set it if i have disconnected the CAS? or are you saying to disconnect the CAS after setting the timing? And do i have to have one of those strobe lights for this or is there an alternative method?

When you say to turn the heater tap on full hot is this controlled by the heater setting in the car? or is there a tap near the distributor? Also the purpose of this is to get the thermostat to open and warm the car up faster? How will i know if the thermostat is open?

I did ask my uncle about setting the valve clearances a while ago when i first got the car and he said it wouldn't need to be done because the engine was blueprinted. Is this true E? I suppose theres only one way to find out. If i can hear tapping noises then theres no question it needs to be done obviously. If so i suppose this is the guide to follow?: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=9023

Sorry for the bucket load of questions ... When driving it back down the hill are you suggesting getting the overrun to hit 5-6k or are you saying take it up to 5-6k and then down shift? I know you said not to be scared but it is a bit scary doing all this for the first time

Cheers E.

Reuben

[baz]

Rebuilt 10 years ago & never actually ran I'm assuming?..

You need a timing light to set the base ignition timing yes.

Heater temp setting inside the car, set that to HOT so the water/coolant car flow through the heater core.


Say if you have a thermostat that opens at 79 degrees. Then the water inside the motor will get to that temperate, the thermostat will open up & the water will flow..So the radiator hose that goes to the thermostat will be cold until the thermostat opens up & lets all the hotter water through & the hose will heat up, letting you know the thermostat has then opened.

On a fresh motor / even a new head gasket.. tafe etc teach you not to run coolant on a fresh motor / new head gasket..As coolant & water mixed is thinner than water on its own, So they tell you to run water for the first 1000kms, then dump the water & run coolant & do a oil & filter change whilst your at it..

For run in methods there's a few different methods some people like to use..Tas's is just one of them..Another one is that the Rpm is limited so say 4,500rpm for the whole 1000kms run in period along with very low boost levels so that everything settles, then once thats over with, then you can up the boost & start driving it harder..fluctuating the revs as much as you can on the run in period (no steady long rpm driving Eg. highway) ..

Tas has been in the game for a very long time & i don't doubt his work one bit ( I know him personally, fantastic guy in person, on the net maybe not so much for some people on here ) ..

As for the valve clearances, They would have been set to the "cold" clearance..So once its upto operating temp etc..hank the old cover off it & check them just encase but I'm sure they will be bang on

I'd recommend putting an oil pressure gauge on it & cranking it over until you see oil pressure then firing the engine up..Tas has covered basically everything so i wont continue ranting on..

[tassuperkart]

Cheers Baz.

Yer, what Baz said up there ^ Got it covered.

Pay no attention to whatever your being "told" about an engine being built some years ago.
Just assume its never been setup and so NOT ready to go.
Just do a cold set on the valves before you start it and a hot set after and youll know for sure yer?

Disconnecting the CAS will just prevent the ecu from firing the injectors and ignition.
Unless the cam belt is a tooth out, which it wont, because you have double checked it along with correct tension... havent you!!!

If you set your dissy about half way on its adjustment you wont be too far off for its initial start. Unless something is pretty wrong the dissy is rarely far away from the center of its adjustment.

I still like to kill the fuel pump tho to check with a timing light before you go for a start tho. Just me.

Oracle

[rubixcube101]

Thanks guys.

Wen't out and bought a timing light today so i'll be able to set the timing when its ready to go. Will be sure to double check the cam belt and do a cold hot set on the valves

The dizzy is still in its initial position from before i think slightly towards the front of the car (to retard timing?) so ill just leave it where it is for now and adjust after.

Installed a spring around the wastegate actuator rod that has lowered the crack pressure substantially from 12psi. Was trying to test what its down to but my air compressor cant seem to provide a consistent pressure regulation under 10 psi. However i do believe its opening below 7.Still waiting on parts to come from frozen boost but once that arrives ill be able to install some piping and kick her into life Going to skip on intercooler and bov for rego cause i don't want any trouble, but after that ill take the spring of the waste gate and put the IC in along with a bov.

Thanks again baz and E,

Reuben

[tassuperkart]

Netime Reub.
Yes, you owe me shitloads of drinkies!!!!!!!
All good!

Oracle