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Fuel pump current draw
- congers87@hotmail.com
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- Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:33 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Fuel pump current draw
Doing a fuel pump current draw on a standard pump. I am reading 3.8 amps during priming. Is this healthy?
UPDATE: The car idles perfect and revs fine up to 3000rpm but still wont rev beyond 3000rpm. I have checked and sorted the Water temp sensor, coil, leads, sparks, fuel pressure, wiggled the ecu plugs, replaced the CAS, tested the AFM and cleaned the AFM resistor track. This cunt has nearly got me beat.
In my head the 3000rpm seems like a limp mode if these cars have one? Im guessing it is either the injectors (can they shit themselves at a set rpm and run fine otherwise??) I have checked their resistance which is fine. Or the fuel pump dying in the arse at 3000rpm. Or perhaps the knock sensor??. I have reved the engine up to 3000rpm with the fuel pressure remaining at 29-30psi when the limit is reached. The car looses revs and then picks up again. Sorry if this is not creating a clear picture but I'm pretty confident I've gone through all the typical N12 checks. Any help appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris
UPDATE: The car idles perfect and revs fine up to 3000rpm but still wont rev beyond 3000rpm. I have checked and sorted the Water temp sensor, coil, leads, sparks, fuel pressure, wiggled the ecu plugs, replaced the CAS, tested the AFM and cleaned the AFM resistor track. This cunt has nearly got me beat.
In my head the 3000rpm seems like a limp mode if these cars have one? Im guessing it is either the injectors (can they shit themselves at a set rpm and run fine otherwise??) I have checked their resistance which is fine. Or the fuel pump dying in the arse at 3000rpm. Or perhaps the knock sensor??. I have reved the engine up to 3000rpm with the fuel pressure remaining at 29-30psi when the limit is reached. The car looses revs and then picks up again. Sorry if this is not creating a clear picture but I'm pretty confident I've gone through all the typical N12 checks. Any help appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris
Mortein kills 99% of household bugs. Chuck Norris kills 100% of whatever the fuck he likes.
- tassuperkart
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- congers87@hotmail.com
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I found an old post and have tried Ben Hewitson's technique where he bends the pins slightly to create a better contact. No improvement. Any other ideas Tas? Did somebody once have sucess soldering indiviul wires on to the ecu pins?
Cheers
Chris
Cheers
Chris
Mortein kills 99% of household bugs. Chuck Norris kills 100% of whatever the fuck he likes.
- tassuperkart
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- congers87@hotmail.com
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Thanks Tas. After my last post I came across your posts about the motherborad plugs. That sounds a goer. Did you only do this to the AFM wires? If I remove the standard plugs can I drill out their housing and slide the moterboard plugs through those holes? How did you do it? I'm just trying to picture the easiest and least destructive way of fixing the critical wires. I'm guessing troublesome Ignition wires and AFM wires are going to be the ones causing the 3000rpm issue.
Cheers,
Chris
Cheers,
Chris
Mortein kills 99% of household bugs. Chuck Norris kills 100% of whatever the fuck he likes.
I have a solution.
Solder in a pc 20 pin female connector with wires from a pc motherboard on top of the pins solders inside the ecu.
splice your harness/loom so still leaving your plug so you can plug it in still, tracing them wires to each pin on ecu board.
You gotta know which ones are airflow meter pins before you proceed
poke the wire out some how maybe you should grind a hole on outer edge into the plug side so the wires can just wedge in and come out to connect to the male 20 pin plug..
the idea of this is like a highway bypass around a town.
the airflow meter plug is a intermittent problem.
my idea would mean you can still use another computer unmodded on your loom.
I will have to post up a example when I get time
I have tried to explain.
Solder in a pc 20 pin female connector with wires from a pc motherboard on top of the pins solders inside the ecu.
splice your harness/loom so still leaving your plug so you can plug it in still, tracing them wires to each pin on ecu board.
You gotta know which ones are airflow meter pins before you proceed
poke the wire out some how maybe you should grind a hole on outer edge into the plug side so the wires can just wedge in and come out to connect to the male 20 pin plug..
the idea of this is like a highway bypass around a town.
the airflow meter plug is a intermittent problem.
my idea would mean you can still use another computer unmodded on your loom.
I will have to post up a example when I get time
I have tried to explain.
Amraks
- congers87@hotmail.com
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- tassuperkart
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I actually just cut the plugs clean off and soldered and heath-shrunk on the flyleads.
Only for that particular plug.
However, id never do that as you have to be careful to make sure all the pins go correctly to their respective contacts.
The plugs are a very generic plug and the actual connectors can be bought easily.
Just extract the pins from the plugs and replace them. All too easy and no funky mods and tricky soldering jobs
.
It is tricky to extract the connectors from the plastic plugs tho. I made an extraction tool by grinding down some mig wire to resemble a flat blade screwdriver.
You might even be able to use a small jewelers screwdriver.
Once you get one out, youll be able to get the rest.
Oracle
Only for that particular plug.
However, id never do that as you have to be careful to make sure all the pins go correctly to their respective contacts.
The plugs are a very generic plug and the actual connectors can be bought easily.
Just extract the pins from the plugs and replace them. All too easy and no funky mods and tricky soldering jobs
.
It is tricky to extract the connectors from the plastic plugs tho. I made an extraction tool by grinding down some mig wire to resemble a flat blade screwdriver.
You might even be able to use a small jewelers screwdriver.
Once you get one out, youll be able to get the rest.
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
- tassuperkart
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If stock e15et ecu gets a signal that throttle valve is at idle position despite that throttle is actually depressed and valve opened, revs seems to be limited to about 3000 rpm. Had this problem due to a miswiring (when swapping E13 -> E15ET). It took some time to find the fault and tried many other things first.tassuperkart wrote:Why?
Oracle
B11 Van E15ET
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
Alfa Romeo 156 V6 -99 *RIP*
Volvo V40 D2 -14
N13 E15ET (a/c) *RIP*
N13 CA16DE s/c (toyota sc12) + ic&wmi
*RIP*
**bangs head against wall**
My old exa I created from granny spec to a neat little BRIGHT car: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3903
Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute
Current Car: 2004 Vz SS Ute
that's the normal fuel shut off-function on deceleration while the tps is closed.grunertee wrote:
If stock e15et ecu gets a signal that throttle valve is at idle position despite that throttle is actually depressed and valve opened, revs seems to be limited to about 3000 rpm. Had this problem due to a miswiring (when swapping E13 -> E15ET). It took some time to find the fault and tried many other things first.
it's just that the ecu doesn't care if it is reasonable to shut it off also while accelerating