If that was my donk, and I was paying to have the head done, I would throw a new set of rings at it whilst I could. Looking at the rest of the project that you ave done, whipping out the pistons and re ringing them should be a doodle. Time consuming, but very straight forward.
Sump off = new gasket.
Rods and pistons out (be very careful not to drop or mark the bearings!), reuse the bearings unless they are toast. Give the slugs a good clean, re ring, index the ring ends, lube the whole show up, insert them the correct way around with a ring compressor, torque the sucker together, re install the sump. Would be wise 6 hours and $100 investment over just reassembling it wit a 'new' head.
If you go down this path, there is a ar more comprehensive methodology to follow.
Damo
N12Turbo.com lanyards are now available! Click here to visit the shop
Has anyone got a match
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
-
tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
I really really want to set it on fire..... 
Damn this fucken thing... It wants to be the end of me...
So $200 and got the head reco'd and tested (Cheap)...
Sounds good, slapped it together
have the welded manifold.
Yes sounding good
What can go wrong, throw the turbo back on and I'm done.
If you read the ugly duck post, you would know its a old but reco'd T25
So the first time I put it on, I had to get some helicoils put in...
OK,
and I also had to take it to a turbo specialist MTQ Engine Systems just to spin
it around as I did not have any circlip pliers and they stocked gaskets.
So looking at the turbo now... I could spin the housing with very little effort...
Hold on... There is something wrong here,
So I took it back to MTQ...
The guy pulled the circlip off, said it was put on backwards...
and there is wear and that the turbo is fucked (From the maybe 30 min I had the car idling)...
Hold on, the turbo was reco'd... Bench tested... and now you say its fucked...
So what now... He said nothing.... Its fucked... We cant help you....
But it was ok before I bought it here.....
Then he asked me to leave...
I asked to speak to a manager and he got abusive.
So I left.
What do you do
I'm going to complain to their head office...
But you know nothing is going to come out of it...
And frankly with all the other stuff in my life (Looking after mum with dementia)...
I dont have the time or energy to get into it....
So.... Does anyone have a cheap T2 or T25.
I am thinking of putting the T28 back on..
But that will require me moving stuff and getting some new piping...
So stressed.
Damn this fucken thing... It wants to be the end of me...
So $200 and got the head reco'd and tested (Cheap)...
Sounds good, slapped it together
have the welded manifold.
Yes sounding good
What can go wrong, throw the turbo back on and I'm done.
If you read the ugly duck post, you would know its a old but reco'd T25
So the first time I put it on, I had to get some helicoils put in...
OK,
and I also had to take it to a turbo specialist MTQ Engine Systems just to spin
it around as I did not have any circlip pliers and they stocked gaskets.
So looking at the turbo now... I could spin the housing with very little effort...
Hold on... There is something wrong here,
So I took it back to MTQ...
The guy pulled the circlip off, said it was put on backwards...
and there is wear and that the turbo is fucked (From the maybe 30 min I had the car idling)...
Hold on, the turbo was reco'd... Bench tested... and now you say its fucked...
So what now... He said nothing.... Its fucked... We cant help you....
But it was ok before I bought it here.....
Then he asked me to leave...
I asked to speak to a manager and he got abusive.
So I left.
What do you do
I'm going to complain to their head office...
But you know nothing is going to come out of it...
And frankly with all the other stuff in my life (Looking after mum with dementia)...
I dont have the time or energy to get into it....
So.... Does anyone have a cheap T2 or T25.
I am thinking of putting the T28 back on..
But that will require me moving stuff and getting some new piping...
So stressed.
-
tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
I suggest you ignore what the turbo guy says about it being fucked, but make sure you make some trouble for them by making a big complaint in writing to the head office.
Quote times, dates and include any receipts you might have.
Ha ng in there sunshine. These things have a habit of sorting themselves out.
Step away from the car for a while, enjoy christmas and any quality time you can with ur mum.
Come back to the car when you can be bothered and it will not seem such a headfuck.
Cheers
Oracle
Quote times, dates and include any receipts you might have.
Ha ng in there sunshine. These things have a habit of sorting themselves out.
Step away from the car for a while, enjoy christmas and any quality time you can with ur mum.
Come back to the car when you can be bothered and it will not seem such a headfuck.
Cheers
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
T2 excellent condition
I have a T2 that I'm pulling out of my Exa this week, works great was reco'd before i bought the car probably got 30,000 kms on it, works great. You can have it for the price of the postage if your interested. Just give me a week or so to fit my new one and confirm that it's OK.
Let me know if your interested.
Cheers,
Simon
Let me know if your interested.
Cheers,
Simon
Quick answer needed
Its the little thing that drive me crazy.....
OK I was trying to set the tappets when I found something strange.
Having a closer look I think I screwed up the timing belt.
How you ask.... Cant the idiot follow some simple marks!!!
Well I thought I could, and I check 15 times over.
This is the problem.
in this article http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=7302
It clearly says line up the arrow to the TDC mark. sound easy.
I have 2 cam pulleys both the same, off 2 motors, both have arrows.
But the also both have circles in them (180deg).
This the article cam pulley does not have.
So when turning the motor to set the tappets,
on TDC, 3 of the 4 could be set, but one was closed,
hence my problem.
Looking around and finding the manual,
it uses the circle as the timing make.
So I stripped it down again,
but before I change it, I would love some confirmation.
Yep my luck as been a joke this year
OK I was trying to set the tappets when I found something strange.
Having a closer look I think I screwed up the timing belt.
How you ask.... Cant the idiot follow some simple marks!!!
Well I thought I could, and I check 15 times over.
This is the problem.
in this article http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=7302
It clearly says line up the arrow to the TDC mark. sound easy.
I have 2 cam pulleys both the same, off 2 motors, both have arrows.
But the also both have circles in them (180deg).
This the article cam pulley does not have.
So when turning the motor to set the tappets,
on TDC, 3 of the 4 could be set, but one was closed,
hence my problem.
Looking around and finding the manual,
it uses the circle as the timing make.
So I stripped it down again,
but before I change it, I would love some confirmation.
Yep my luck as been a joke this year
Don't be fussed too much with the triangle timing marks vs the circle. I have had a face palm moment in the past where I had realized that I was using the e13 mark rather than the e15, for years! When it comes down to it, the triangle mark allows the couple extra mm thickness of the e13 head vs the e15. The difference between the two is less than a 1/3 f a tooth for timing sakes only, non consequential.
As for setting you tappets, why are you using the cam marks? The better way to do it would be to use the rotor button, or timing marks off the crank. Just remember that at TDC off the crank you have 2 possible positions. If you are using the triangle rather than the circle mark, it just means you should be setting #4 rather than #1, same for #2and #3.
There is nothing to reset.
Damo
As for setting you tappets, why are you using the cam marks? The better way to do it would be to use the rotor button, or timing marks off the crank. Just remember that at TDC off the crank you have 2 possible positions. If you are using the triangle rather than the circle mark, it just means you should be setting #4 rather than #1, same for #2and #3.
There is nothing to reset.
Damo
Do humanity a favor, use your brain and fight the forces of WOO WOO!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1mrbxhWU5Y
I finally got it done.
Started first go (to my amazement)
Recon'd head, New head gasket, new timing belt, bigger turbo.
and as it seems to stop smoking (well very little, must be burning off the old oil)
Of coarse there was a little smoke coming from the motor as things heated up (Thats pretty cool)
Anyway, I took some video of the first start.
then stop.... Found some fuel leaking, but that only took a moment to fix.
then a second first start.
and ran it for 10 min or so until it got to running temp.
You can see the video on members rides, you know, the Ugly Duckling.....(almost got called the CRISPY DUCK)
Started first go (to my amazement)
Recon'd head, New head gasket, new timing belt, bigger turbo.
and as it seems to stop smoking (well very little, must be burning off the old oil)
Of coarse there was a little smoke coming from the motor as things heated up (Thats pretty cool)
Anyway, I took some video of the first start.
then stop.... Found some fuel leaking, but that only took a moment to fix.
then a second first start.
and ran it for 10 min or so until it got to running temp.
You can see the video on members rides, you know, the Ugly Duckling.....(almost got called the CRISPY DUCK)
-
tassuperkart
- Administrator
- Posts: 5578
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
- Location: Southern Tasmania
- Contact:
*** Any Suggestions ***
Took it out for a little run around the block.....
Found the brakes spongy
Had a look... and it looks like the master cylinder is leaking.
Don't know where I am going to find one or what to replace it with...
I have a ET one, but that has 4 lines and the Prairie has 2..
Plus it looks like the prairie one 7/8 which from what I know
is a little bigger size than the standard pulsar.
I just dont know enough technical stuff about MC.
Also to make it worst,
The series II Prairie, which only came out here for 1 year,
has a different MC than the rest, At this time, they had the E15 and CA18
Motors, then they added the ca20 motor (until 1988)
The rest of the world got decent size motors and we got stuck with the 1500.
anyway, so they changed the MC in Series II.
I just want it fixed with as little hassle as possible.
PS.. I got quoted from Bursons $529 for a new one...
So thats out as far as I am concerned.
Unless I can find a Chinese one...
You know, the similar one that you can buy from eBay for $100 LOL
I cant even find the right part number.
Bursons gave me NABCO JB1773 as the part number,
but doing a few NET searches gave me no information.
I am guessing this is a NABCO part number and not the Nissan one.
At least if I could find the right part number, I could look for alternate ones.
So has anyone changed the MC (without all the hassles of new lines).
There has to be an easier way.
PPS.. added some new front shots on my rides
Took it out for a little run around the block.....
Found the brakes spongy
Had a look... and it looks like the master cylinder is leaking.
Don't know where I am going to find one or what to replace it with...
I have a ET one, but that has 4 lines and the Prairie has 2..
Plus it looks like the prairie one 7/8 which from what I know
is a little bigger size than the standard pulsar.
I just dont know enough technical stuff about MC.
Also to make it worst,
The series II Prairie, which only came out here for 1 year,
has a different MC than the rest, At this time, they had the E15 and CA18
Motors, then they added the ca20 motor (until 1988)
The rest of the world got decent size motors and we got stuck with the 1500.
anyway, so they changed the MC in Series II.
I just want it fixed with as little hassle as possible.
PS.. I got quoted from Bursons $529 for a new one...
So thats out as far as I am concerned.
Unless I can find a Chinese one...
You know, the similar one that you can buy from eBay for $100 LOL
I cant even find the right part number.
Bursons gave me NABCO JB1773 as the part number,
but doing a few NET searches gave me no information.
I am guessing this is a NABCO part number and not the Nissan one.
At least if I could find the right part number, I could look for alternate ones.
So has anyone changed the MC (without all the hassles of new lines).
There has to be an easier way.
PPS.. added some new front shots on my rides
Well... yes... I have one,
but that means that I have to run new lines to the back.
I am thinking about it....
but for now I'm just ignoring the thing (The Prairie).
As a side note... I found another Prairie in VIC that I want.
Very original that the owner has had from new.
I think it will be a good run-around......
I am sure I will do stuff to it but not as radical as the Duck....
The main change that I will look at is EFI-ing it.
But no sunroof..... no Flares...... and leave it pretty stock....
Maybe go radical on the wheels and get some white wall tyres LOL
but that means that I have to run new lines to the back.
I am thinking about it....
but for now I'm just ignoring the thing (The Prairie).
As a side note... I found another Prairie in VIC that I want.
Very original that the owner has had from new.
I think it will be a good run-around......
I am sure I will do stuff to it but not as radical as the Duck....
The main change that I will look at is EFI-ing it.
But no sunroof..... no Flares...... and leave it pretty stock....
Maybe go radical on the wheels and get some white wall tyres LOL