N12Turbo.com lanyards are now available! Click here to visit the shop

Sydney Help get Ugly Duck running, Happy to pay for the help

General chat related to anything N12.
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

Sydney Help get Ugly Duck running, Happy to pay for the help

Post by Valentich »

Hey guys,
The story,
You guys know the ugly duck
Its been a on going project (when I have time, mainly in summer for a few months).
So, 2 months ago my drive around car got stolen
and I am now without a car and very little cash.


But I was thinking, instead of getting a cheap runabout,
I'll give the Prairie a frantic effort to get it registered, even though it may not be perfect or finished to where I want it.
So, I need some help with the mechanical.
In most part, It did start before I stored it,
though I am sure there is something up with the battery relocation
(I used the wires from the donor ET. The motor does not seem to crank properly,
like it is not getting the power and the wires are getting hot,
So, I am going to run new wires and get a 13 plate battery,
the 13 plate was always on the books, maybe 2 of them for the computer and audio junk. (more so I don't get a flat battery if I crash in it over night)


When I got the donor ET, they guy said the turbo was blown and it would not idle,
but it had some of the most doggy, shit everything, wire hanging, hose off, you name it!
and a afm relocation that had the log open, I blocked the log and it started running better, after a bit, it idled and ran for 30 min,
I did this a few times. there was no smoke, even after revving it,
But now in the prairie, the rough idle is back and its now blowing some smoke.
One thing I want to do is remove the T28 and put the reco T25 on.

I don't want any headaches, and I think a T25 is good enough.

Anyway, all this is too much for my head right now,
So I need help, someone that knows the motor and can diagnose the problems,
I just have not got enough experience and time.

SO, If there is someone that can help me breathe life in the girl, this would be a major step to getting it registered.

What I can offer is some parts in trade, I have a full motor, some other parts, Heck you can have the T28 as well,
If that's not enough I can pull some money together for your time. I just need it done.

So guys, if you help, please let me know.

PS, If someone is just going to say, Go to a mechanic....Don't
I cant really afford a mechanic prices,
Plus, most don't really understand the ET well,
especially if there have been modifications, and a transplant is even more confusing,
Plus, I honestly believe that some of you guys know the cars better than most mechanics ever will.
User avatar
JETETT
Posts: 357
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:59 am
Location: Wollongong

Post by JETETT »

if only you were close enough my man
Image
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Valentich »

Well maybe, if I have no luck, we can talk about a day trip,
maybe a pick-nick basket, some chocolates and Champaign, anything that will entice you down.
I'll even put on some sexy lingerie, Oh, hold on, gone a bit too far.
But I understand its a big thing and I would really appreciate it.
Lets see what happens
EA-73-XA
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:38 pm
Location: Gosford

Post by EA-73-XA »

where abouts in sydney dude?
T3T4 hybrid, FMIC and MT8 =

EA-73-XA now known as DR-34-MN
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Valentich »

SEVEN HILLS NEAR BLACKTOWN,
JUST AT THE MAIN EXIT BETWEEN THE M2 AND M7
ctchme
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:07 pm
Location: Gosford, NSW

Post by ctchme »

I might be able to lend a helping hand if u need it, but not sure when
1984 Exa, T2 turbo, 8psi, adjustable fpr, 850cc injectors, megasquirt 2 ecu, E85 fuel, black dash, black boot and bonnet, 14's wrapped in 215/50 BF Goodrich tyres
EA-73-XA
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:38 pm
Location: Gosford

Post by EA-73-XA »

i can help you
T3T4 hybrid, FMIC and MT8 =

EA-73-XA now known as DR-34-MN
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Valentich »

WOW, another frigging long one.

What a crappy week and a bit it has been, My dad was admitted to hospital with a heart problem,
so I spent most of the week going from hospital (dad) and nursing home (mum) I am totaled,
Then when I had a few moments, screw work, which is so behind anyway, I tried to work on the Prairie.


So, you would think, as everyone says that its a bolt off, bolt on job, I would be able to finish it quickly.
Well I did, sure a few hours, lets call it a days job, Screw that, It took me 3 days, yes, 3 days.


As I was told it was cleaned and tested at a turbo place (when a young mate, took it to clean, {that some people ideas of working on cars}
and he broke the circlip trying to open it, so he took it some were to fix, coming back all cleaned up,
he told me the story, and that they checked it and bench tested it)....


Anyway, Removing the T28 was not to much of a hassle, then, putting on the "all so cute little" T25, I noticed that is was smaller.
No, I am not a dope, what I mean is as it is smaller, the bolts did not line up, and in the prairie,
it was not possible to just wiggle them, So, I had to go under to loosen the exhaust.
This done, I go to bolt it up, place the flange on, then... Hold on, 1, 2, 3, bolts, then why wont this tighten, fuck, fuck, fuck.
so again it comes off, had a close look, 2 holes are larger... That cant be right, all the same on the T28.
Hold on, what that, one off the "OK" bolt holes has a helicoil in it, Shit, that explains the other to larger holes,
the helicoils must of come out ??? Strange!!!
OK, no time to do it now


So the next day, I go the the mechanic, hey can you put 2 coils in, you don't have to drill and tap, just put coil in.
Sure... I dont have any.
OK, off to Peters head head, they will have them. OK, can you do this, Yes, can you come back in a few hours.
Sure, I'll go to the nursing home, then pick dad up from hospital, then come back.
On the way back from the hospital, I drop in, in a rush, as dad was in the car.
All done, yes, OK, how much, $50 will do, what, I had $50 in my hand to pay him, and gave it to him and walked out in disgust.
For Placing 2 coils in, $50 bucks.
Now I now I am getting old, because in my youth, I could buy the coils for about $1 each.
So a word of warning, That place... I feel is a RIP OFF, I wont go there again.

So home again, dads home so no stress of worry about him, so nothing should stop me from finishing.
Slap turbo on, bolt on flange, and of fucken cause, when its lined up, one bolt wont go on straight,
the fucken original helicoil, and of cause it's the bottom back one, and its facing in to the dump pipe,
so getting the fucker in was a bloody nightmare.
Can you tell it frustrated me.
Ok that done, Now the intake pipe, before there was a flange on the T28, now none, so add that to the smaller housing,
there is about 15cm difference, OK make a new pipe, but I cant find any the right size,
with what's laying about, no, nothing that the silicon hoses will fit.
OK, leave it to tomorrow, and do something else.
OK, the piping, ok, what looks like an oil return, that's different, but I found a hose and that's done,
Oil line in, little bending and done.
Now the water lines.
OK, banjo nuts, I'll get them off the T28,
Hold on, they are not fitting, What, the housing is much smaller on the T25, so the nuts have to be shorter,
there was one on the T25 before, but the head was wrecked, grabbing that, yep about 6mm shorter.
OK give up, I'll go the next day and get some.


Next day, Go to Charlestone Exhaust, I need about 30cm of 2.25 inch pipe (or whatever it was that fit the turbo).
"OK, What for",
I told them,
"$20 for the pipe or $30 for the pip bent",
OK $30 it is, saves me from wasting hours cutting and welding and it looks better too.
Next to the fitting place down the road.
No sorry, no banjo's, went home called pirtek, yes we have them, go down there, sorry we don't have them,
we could order them for you but it would be probably the same as the ones you have. Go to a bolt place.
So off to a bolt place, no, we don't stock them.
Scratching my head, is there any place local I can get these.
At the bolt place, getting desperate, I ask if they have a nut that fits it.
"YES", a word I like to hear. So $4.50 later I am heading home.
Put the nut on the banjo bolt and cut them down, then as the nut came off it re-treaded it.
Getting cold now and starting to sprinkle, and as the car is in the middle of the grass and no cover I was desperate to finish,
Yes 3:00 finished.


OK, got a new, large 15 plate battery fully charged, wire it up and turn the key,
slowly the motor turns, but no start, then nothing, not power, jump out, look at the terminals, there good.
Then spent 20min looking for a test light. just ended going out and buying one at a local parts supplier.
Race back home. Start stabbing wires to find the fault. Yes done, fusible link loose.
Jump in again and cranked it, again slow turning, try again, and again, get out, little smoke coming from the starter motor.
Shit, will this ever end.
Remove starter, only 2 bolts, and I have a spare, but its getting dark, hard to see.
Put the other starter motor in, but its not fitting, I am sure this is the right one.
OK, give up, another day, if it stops raining, I'll give it a go again.


Today, looking at the starters, it looks like the solenoid is in a different place, but it is labelled N12.
I thought it might of been the prairie one.
I notice that is was hitting a water pipe. So out of desperation, I bent the pipe.
Now it fits,
Bolt it up, jump in, motor spinning much faster, and starts.

Yes


After a minute of revelling in the drivers seat, I jump out, go to the front, but something sounded wrong.
Like, maybe a rubbing or bearing not lubricated, first thing I thought was the turbo is not getting oil,
so I quickly moved it back the 4m meters under cover and stopped it.
Look at that another day.


So I am still after someone to help out, someone that knows these motors.
Anyone Please.


EA-73-XA can you please pm me your number so I can call you.
THanks
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Valentich »

HELP !!!!

Good news, Bad news, Good news, Bad news, Bad news, will it ever end LOL

OK, had a look at it again today, it would not start, Gave the starter a bang and she kicked over,
So the replacement starter is F@#ked, anyway that is an easy fix, carry a hammer with me (I often feel like banging the prairie)
That noise I heard that I thought was grinding, was actually the air been sucked into that crappy annoying air filter,
again another "easy fix" (that hammer will come in handy)

but the big news is that it started smoking again,
So the dude that sold it to me was wrong about the turbo being f@#ked, (Yes, anyone want to buy a GOOD T28 LOL)
I know the T25 is good, the problem must be somewhere else.
there is also oil leaking, which happened with the T28,
Before I could not see where from, but know it looks like its coming from the oil pipe inlet,
seems to be seeping through the bolt thread.
but before I get a new one made, I need to be sure.
I think something else must be wrong causing these problems.

Any suggestions

Still looking desperately for a E15T guru to help out.

.
User avatar
tassuperkart
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 5578
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:39 pm
Location: Southern Tasmania
Contact:

Post by tassuperkart »

Id love to help M8 but sadly Im a bit far away.
Is the turbo a BB core or bush bearring?
L8r
Oracle
Forcd4 wrote:Oh fuk no dude it's you a again, the oracle.
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

White smoke and catch can

Post by Valentich »

E... excuses excuses,
Close and far is just a metaphysical state ..... HaHa .....What crap,
Thanks E, I know you would if you lived in the same country as us LOL.
You know we all pretty much appreciate the words of wisdom from the Oracle...
The T28 is a bush bearing (Part Number: 1441- 75F00),
Hey the way I see it beggars cant be bitches, And over the time, I got both turbos for nothing LOL

Ok if I sound like a dick, its sleep deprivation and exhaustion. Please forgive me.

Anyway, so doing a search for white smoke, I can see that it comes up a lot, but it seems that there is no definitive answers.
People ask questions, get advise, but there is no follow up to if the actions fixed the problem.

Suggestion- can someone write an in-depth article about the problem. With maybe a check list or symptoms and cures

Anyway, as I am pretty sure its not the turbo, I turn to looking for something else.
So reading the posts, I got the impression that the problem could be the something to do with pressurising the sump
or the rocker cover breathers, so I had a bit of a look at some photos and some more posts,
and I noticed that my motor breathers seem wrong, So again to the dodgy bastards that sold me the donor,
with the dodgy battery relocation,dodgy AFM relocation (leaving the log uncapped), dodgy wiring and all the rest, lets add another one.

They told me that the turbo was blown and blowing smoke, but as I was going to put the T25 on, I did not care.

And me... A little dodgy, have little experience with these types of motors, had no idea if it is right and just copied how it was before.


Donor motor as I got it The tape over the log ends was me when testing it LOL
Image

And now Still have a bit of wires to clean up, but getting there.
Image



So the breather near the 710 cap is plumbed to the inlet manifold through the PCV Valve, and the other one is a hole vented to atmo.

You can see it better in this pic
Image

Now I don't know if this is causing the white smoke, but I am pretty sure this is wrong.
From reading and pics, it looks like the breather on the dizzy side should go through the PCV to the inlet manifold? (Y/N)
The other ??? I think from reading it goes from breather to between the AFM and turbo? (Y/N)


I was thinking of adding a catch can, but not sure if it is legal to have one, I have read yes and no.
Anyone Know for NSW,
I don't really want to add any mess, I would be interested to know if there is any factory good ones
that I can pick up from wreckers, I like the thought I can hide it low and it looks stock.
thats if its worth having one ???


Back to my problems

1/ There is no connection for the breather on the dizzy side, any ideas where I can get one,
I am guessing its a bit of pipe that fits in the hole, but I have not seen it so it may be anything.
FYI, the chrome rocker cover I have, has this breather hole filled in, there is a place for it, but no hole.... STRANGE

2/ Let me get this straight,
* One breather goes to in-between AFM and turbo,
* With log removal, you have the mini log you cut down that has a hose that also goes in-between the AFM and turbo,
* and when I put my BOV (factory Series 4 RX7 Plumbed Back) that also feeds back to in-between the AFM and turbo.
Thats 3 hoses to that pipe.... Has anyone done this.


OK, thanks you guys for reading all my crap.
Any help is most appreciated.


.
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Valentich »

Hey E, That seems to have done the smoking bit.
The dodgy bastards not only got that wrong, but when I had a look at the hose with the PCV,
I found out that its not a PCV, but a brass connection, one side for clamping and the other had a tread on it.
And the hose was full of oil.
I found a PCV and put it in. Also at a quick look, the breather (at idle) near the dizzy seems to blow out (+)
and the one near the 710 cap seams to suck in (-).

Anyway there was an immediate difference, in 30 sec the smoke stopped pluming out.
Its still smoking a little, Like you said, it will do that for a while until it burns off.

I am still a little concerned about plumbing the breather back to the turbo inlet,
just if there was so much oil in that pipe before, and I do that, will it send oil though the turbo.
I figure that I will leave it for a few days, until the oil burns off,
and if in that time no oil has accumulated in that pipe (in any real quantity) then I'll put it in.

There still seems to be oil coming out of the turbo somewhere,
and when I listen carefully I can hear a exhaust leek around the turbo,
but that is for tomorrow.
I am happy that I think I got the smoke sorted.

Thanks guys for all the help
User avatar
The Renegade
Administrator
Administrator
Posts: 3002
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:22 pm
Location: Telegraph Point - N.S.W. Mid North Coast

Post by The Renegade »

Wish I could help bud - keep us up to date though.
--------------------
Trust no-one but yourself.

The beast:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=3982
=====================
Mid North Coast Member. :twisted:
=====================
User avatar
Valentich
Posts: 253
Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:23 am
Location: Sydney

exhaust manifold

Post by Valentich »

Next question,
I'm trying to find (how and where) the oil is leaking from on the turbo,
Now, its bolted together so not to easy to have a good look, but
one place I find oil leaking is on the exhaust manifold,
in that spot, it looks a little funny, Looks like there is a small crack,
So, I when to my spare motor, looked at the manifold, and that had a crack in the same place.

So the question is, do these manifolds tend to crack?
or am I just seeing things.
If its cracked, is it worth getting welded and machined, or is there any second hand ones floating about?
User avatar
etking
Posts: 1214
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 12:42 pm
Location: Hobart, Tas

Post by etking »

yes the exhaust manifolds due tend to crack due to the high temps they have seen over the last 25 years. But that said i don't see how that would have anything to do with leaking oil and blowing smoke, there is no oil that goes near the exhaust manifold (unless it's coming through the motor and out the exhaust side of the turbo)
Members Ride: http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php?t=6786
85 ET, M/tech LT10X, T28, FMIC 2.5" Stainless Piping, 3" Intake, Dump n Zorst, JDM Inlet, CA18DET Injectors, Bosch 040, Bodykit, 17s
Post Reply