ET rear disc questions

[EA-73-XA]

im possibly going to attempt this conversion in the near future, and having done some homework and a bit of research, Iv got a few questions that have presented themselves...

1, are the rear arms, the SAME as EXA? meaning if you were to remove the drum setup from the arm.... would they match?

(Iv fitted 17 inch wheels and Iv done the grind and weld modification...
looking to same some time)

2, handbrake cables and brake lines to fit? Ben Hewitson mentioned something in his HOW TO, but the parts list, was missing

3, the Distribution Valve.... does this need to be tested with different sized washers? or has it been worked out that the 1.0mm washer is sufficient without constant taking on and off and brake bleeding?


thanks again

[ctchme]

1, are the rear arms, the SAME as EXA? meaning if you were to remove the drum setup from the arm.... would they match?

2, handbrake cables and brake lines to fit? Ben Hewitson mentioned something in his HOW TO, but the parts list, was missing

1.Yes they are the same, but still would need to grind back and weld up and change wheel studs

2.Handbrake cables match roughly, just need to shorten the actual cable as the exa handbrake hooks up a slight bit backwards

Cant remember the details on the distribution valve but cant imagine it would be hard to work it back out

[zoomzoom]

did this mod with my exa
cables on the ET are about 100mm shorter all up
easier to get et rear arm grind weld and bolt up
you get the sway bar option that way



zoomzoom

[amraks]

I'm wanting to do this.

So is the wheel stud pattern the same as the exa's or what?

[n12et_exa]

stud pattern is the same across the n12 range its 114.something and also n13 it changes from there on up to 108 or what ever it is
i recomend using the complete et rear trailing arm set up for sway bar brackets pre igsist
these are my opinions on this subject and also upgrade brake booste to the et 4 wheel disc booster you will have to change the brake lines from under the car where the rubber hoses bolt to the metal lines if that makes sence ???????

[amraks]

is the struts and the suspension the same as the exa?

[Callumgw]

you can't have done too much research because there BenH wrote a very detailed article here.... and the one I did on introducing rear camber also has a fair bit....

[Ben Hewitson]

Hey Guys (long time no see hey). EA-73-XA, I've sent you a PM with some further details as well as links to article, photo's etc. If you need anything PM me and i'll try to help out.

BTW: Callumgq i'm going to try that Mitsubishi 2 pot brake conversion between now and xmas as well as rebuild the EXA (yes i still have it and the Liberty GT STi and Liberty B4 live outside) with new engine, injectors, fuel system, turbos, brakes, etc. Needs a fresh tune as well as the Wol3D V500 was never finished and i've got a heap new parts for it.

BH

[tassuperkart]

Well well well...look whos here!

Ive been running the big Mitzi brakes on the front along with R31 rear disks and calipers for a while now Ben.

The Mitzi brakes on their own move the brake bias ridiculously forwards and the car is an absolute arse to drive hard.

The r31 rear conversion have moved the bias almost dangerously rearwards but nothing an external adjustable proportioning valve wont fix.

Heres a few pix and stuff about halfway down the page:
http://forum.n12turbo.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=180

There enough brakes to stop a tank...... Too much really!
Ferociously powerful and light (but rather long) pedal.

Next project is to adapt a MC with bigger pistons to harden up feel and shorten pedal travel

Oracle

[Valentich]

Just an FYI

I just got a set of rear disc rotors from Burson's Auto parts.
The guy called DBA to chase a set up.
The retail price was $120 each. but I got them for $35 each

The reason,
DBA said that they are old stock, and they don't make them any more.
These, I was told where the last set lying around (that is of standard ones I am guessing)

So, I guess its going to get a little harder from now on.
If you need a set, and can find them, snatch them up.

[tassuperkart]

Today, I fitted the MC which carries the 1.5 designation on the front which is accepted as the stock ET MC.

What has happend now is the pedal has gone even longer than with the NA 2.5 MC so it appears that they dont increase the rea piston diameter on the ET MC, the reduce the front diameter to move bias forwards.

With my big brakes setup, altho the bias has moved slightly rearwards, the pedal has gone quyite a bit longer so Im back to fitting an inline brake bias adjuster into the rear lines to get decent braking and renewing my search for a MC with bigger pistons to reduce pedal travel.

Oracle

[tassuperkart]

Did some further digging.

The "1.5" master cylinder has same size primary and secondary pistons @ 20.6mm
The "2.5" master is from the drum brake GX and uses 19 primary and 23.8mm pistons.

Oracle

[txateu]

Has anyone tried an non abs Z32 MC?

I'm sure I've heard that they bolt up from somewhere. I wonder if the front/rear balance would be better. All know id that silvia drivers upgrade to it and the bore size is 15/16''. Havent been able to find much more info yet.

If its possible, id try it too

[tassuperkart]

Already onto it.
Z32 non abs are similar sized pistons to stock so no real point.
The bolt spacing is the same. I have to measure the back of the MC to make sure that it will plug into the ET booster.
Also have to check pushrod lengths.

Im fitting an ABS Z32 MC. It has 26/26 pistons. This will harden the pedal right up.
However, the bias issue will still be there but i have bought a simple Willwood brake bias adjuster valve.
This valve cuts line pressure up to 50% so more than enough to sort the brakes out.
lastly, the ET system uses individual front and rear brake lines and the Z32 only has 2 outlets so the brake lines are going to have to bee Tee'd as well.

Ill report back when the mod is done.

Oracle

[Callumgw]

nice to see you boys are doing some good work while I've been tripping round the world

C